Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Has anyone got a good way of fixing into end plywood? I want to use a centreflex hinge on my doors, which are made of 3/4 ply as are the sides of the teardrop. How can I do this without the doors sagging or falling off. Pics would be great if possible.
Thx in advance.

What are the chances you have a pictures of the hinge you are using. I see you don't have any framing around the door so I would put the hinge on the outside or add some hardwood framing for attachment.

40-

How 'bout edge gluing a solid wood strip to that hinged edge?

-OR-

Cutting a groove like 1/2" in from the hinged edge and gluing in a solid wood strip (spline) into that groove & then use at least 1" long screws?

-OR-

Bore holes in that edge where the hinge screws go & insert glued flush
dowels?

Just some ideas to think about?!

Cheers,

Coop

Geez that was quick, dont you blokes sleep????
Thx for the ideas, I am on a ship off the east coast of India and building mt T/D in my mind, Im ready to fix the doors and need ideas.

Link to centreflex hinge in Australia

http://www.uesint.com/product/fanal.php ... 2.2231/016

40, I would do one of two things...not necceseraly in any order...first would be to glue up a solid edge board (spline and dowels also fall into this catagory) or second, I would predrill all screw holes and fill 'em with glue...the glue will seal and harden the wood, giving the screw much better "bite".........
madjack

madjack wrote:I would predrill all screw holes and fill 'em with glue...the glue will seal and harden the wood, giving the screw much better "bite".........
madjack

MJ-

I thought that process ONLY worked in conjunction with the Acme #2 Board Stretcher



Cheers,

Coop

goldcoop wrote:

madjack wrote:I would predrill all screw holes and fill 'em with glue...the glue will seal and harden the wood, giving the screw much better "bite".........
madjack

MJ-

I thought that process ONLY worked in conjunction with the Acme #2 Board Stretcher



Cheers,

Coop

Coop, I don't have a lot of experience with the #2 Acme...down here, we use strechers from Big Johnson...ya know, the infamous Big Johnson Strechers ....beware of the orange HF strechers from China...they work sideways
madjack

If I am looking at this right I would add a wood frame to the outside of the TD and build the door with wood surrounding it. Attach to the wood frame.

Something that might work is to make a dado and glue it over the edge of the plywood on three sides. You can use a straight router bit or a dado blade on your saw.

http://www.rockler.com/articles/display ... ory_id=135

you could drill ½ flush bottom holes an inch in from the edge almost all the way through and insert some hardwood dowels in the holes and screw into them.

Jiminsav wrote:you could drill ½ flush bottom holes an inch in from the edge almost all the way through and insert some hardwood dowels in the holes and screw into them.

Yep, that is an idea that crossed my mind, have to work out how to drill a hole with out going right through as the interior finish ply is already fitted and I dont want to go through that. Maybe if I get another 1/2 inch spade bit and grind the point off it and start with a normal spade bit but bottom out the hole with the ground off one? What do you reckon? I also thought about using aluminum rod instead of dowell, and drill and tap into it so I could use stainless metal thread bolts instead of screws. You can see I am a metal man at heart.

You might try a Forstner Bit
They leave a pretty clean hole. Just mark your depth on it. It's pretty easy to keep them from taking off unlike a standard drill bit that wants to pull it's way thru.

expoy in a threaded insert?

40deluxecoupe wrote:

Jiminsav wrote:you could drill ½ flush bottom holes an inch in from the edge almost all the way through and insert some hardwood dowels in the holes and screw into them.

Yep, that is an idea that crossed my mind, have to work out how to drill a hole with out going right through as the interior finish ply is already fitted and I dont want to go through that. Maybe if I get another 1/2 inch spade bit and grind the point off it and start with a normal spade bit but bottom out the hole with the ground off one? What do you reckon? I also thought about using aluminum rod instead of dowell, and drill and tap into it so I could use stainless metal thread bolts instead of screws. You can see I am a metal man at heart.

I do it the cheapy way and put a piece of tape on the bit at the depth I want to stop drilling, and use that as a guide. If you have a steady hand you won't drill all the way through.

40deluxecoupe wrote:Geez that was quick, dont you blokes sleep????
Thx for the ideas, I am on a ship off the east coast of India and building mt T/D in my mind, Im ready to fix the doors and need ideas.

I spent 20 years in the Navy with 13 years onboard a ship and I can relate to you building your T/D in your mind. There is a lot of time to think at sea and if you don't do something you can go nuts.