Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Here's the scenario: I want to build a tear that resembles a Camp Inn

My Trailer bed, seen here: http://tnttt.com/album_ ... pic_id=896
is 46" wide X 96" long

As you can see in this pic from the top of the bed to the top of the tire I have 3" : http://tnttt.com/album_ ... pic_id=897.

Should I raise my floor 4" or 5" to clear the tires and extend the width to 5 feet or more? This will allow me to not have to have fenders and their expense. The wheels could be covered. Or I could go with a much thinner tear, probably too thin, and put fenders on?

I think I will probably go with the wider option but would like to see what the consensus is.


Thanks,
Kirk

It looks like it would be easy to widen the frame. Cut it down the middle and make the frame 62.5" wide for 1-1/4" walls and a queen size mattress...

You need more than 3" higher, probably 5", for wheel travel. That would make it pretty high off the ground...

Just a minor philosophical point. I tend to rush things. I try to remind myself that savings a few hours or days now, and living with the results for years down the road isn't worth it.

If you even think you want a queen size mattress and a decent looking tear, give this a bit of thought.

I agree. Just make sure that the inside is 5 ft wide for the matress. I am having to buy a special cut Knoxfoam because I did not do it.

kai

I'm not cutting the frame to make it wider, I'm just going to make the shell wider and make wheel wells over the tires, like the bed of a truck. There are no leaf springs or suspension. The axle is welded to the frame.
If anything I will weld some tabs of the 3" channel onto the sides to carry the load of the extension of width. (Like the tabs on the back that were originally put there for lights.) http://tnttt.com/album_ ... pic_id=896

As you can see here: http://tnttt.com/album_ ... pic_id=868 there were previously 3" channel uprights welded onto the frame for wall supports. I have cut them off and have 6 of them that I can have welded back on for additional support.

I want to build a tear that resembles a Camp Inn so I can leave the two front 3" channel tabs and build the front storage around them, leave them for support. Or I may cut them off if I decide they unnecessary and are just in the way.

chip posted a drawing awhile back of an idea he had for putting a 'storage drawer' under a tear. I think that would be what I would do in your shoes.

I don't see any problem with adding short extensions to make the bottom wider, should work fine. Having wheel wells instead of fenders would give it a different look, might look neat with wheel skirts that stuck out a little beyond the body.

What would worry me is not having any suspension.

KZ76017 wrote:My Trailer bed, seen here: http://tnttt.com/album_ ... pic_id=896
is 46" wide X 96" long

Oh Kirk,

That's a no brainer... Build your body wide enough to cover the wheels, and do rubber fenders like I did on the baja benroy. You'll love the 5' width.



Mike...

mikeschn wrote:
That's a no brainer... Build your body wide enough to cover the wheels, and do rubber fenders like I did on the baja benroy. You'll love the 5' width.

Mike...

MIke, What did you make your sides with on the Baja?
Nevermind, I found your build log. I will study it intently.

I used 5x10 plywood on the sides. But it was kinda heavy.

Steve F is using 1/4" plywood sides on my Lil Diner. It's a little more work, but a lot lighter, and insulated too!!!

But back to your question on the width. Don't do 46". You won't like it.

Measure your wheels from the outside to the outside, and make your body that width... Float the bed above the wheel wells, and you'll be a happy camper!!!

Mike...

Measure your wheels from the outside to the outside, and make your body that width... Float the bed above the wheel wells, and you'll be a happy camper!!!

Mike...[/quote]

Hey Everyone!
This is exactly what I have been considering......but am concerned about strength if the frame (HF trailer) is only 4 ft wide and floor(2 x 4's with lap joints & 3/4 plywood glued and screwed) is 5 ft wide......any thoughts?

By the way, after several months of lurking....this is my first post.
Will start building this spring (in between selling Real Estate)

Ken Aumiller
Springfield Illinois

I just posted some pics in my album that shows how I made my HF trailer 5 foot wide using wheel wells. The extra width is definitely worth the effort. My trailer is pretty "simple". It will have a pop up......someday.

GeorgeT wrote:I just posted some pics in my album that shows how I made my HF trailer 5 foot wide using wheel wells. The extra width is definitely worth the effort. My trailer is pretty "simple". It will have a pop up......someday.

Thanks to all who responded, I'm definitely sold on the extra width.
Very nice George, can't wait to see it!

KZ76017 wrote:If anything I will weld some tabs of the 3" channel onto the sides to carry the load of the extension of width.

No need. Simply built your floor frame out of 2x4's or 2x6's, whichever gives you the clearance you need. Your floor frame is only going to extend 6-7" past the trailer frame, and that isn't nearly enough to worry about welded tabs for support. If you are going to do this, however, you will want to have the floor frame extend past the outside of the tire so that your tire and wood frame are not competing (unsuccessfully) for the same air space.

Personally, I would be concerned about an unsprung trailer. That's going to be one rough riding tear. You're going to be seeing daylight under the tires rather frequently. Make sure you don't keep breakables in it.

There are no leaf springs or suspension. The axle is welded to the frame

KZ,

I think you will find that totally unacceptable. I have a friend that has a streetrod luggage trailer with no suspension, and he carries a cooler on the tongue, like where a tongue box would go, and it rides so ruff that you can't drink the beer out of that cooler until it has set a day!

Maybe I should remove that axle and put a new one on with leaf springs.