Transfer outline to Side Walls...

[Mentor58]

Hey Gang,

Well, the floor is done, and it's about time to start the walls next weekend.

Here's my question for you... what is the best way to transfer the outline of the teardrop to the wall? Here are my options...

1. Use the cad program to print a full sized side view, tape that to the plywood and use that.

2. Come up with a list of measurements from the end of the trailer (x,y) type coords, mark them on the plywood and then draw in the connecting lines.

Option 1 would be possibly the most precise, (more precise than I can cut to be honest), Option 2 might be quicker, but I can see myself spending a LOT of time with the drywall square making sure that I've triple checked all the measurements.

I only have to cut one side precisely, I plan on then trimming the other side slightly oversized and finish it with a flush trim router bit, using the first one as a template.


Any advice would be appreciated.

Steve W

[madjack]

...first question would be...what profile are you building...if it involves eclipses, you will havvta use some sorta X,Y measurments...if it is just using radiuses, you can use a trammel stick to transfer the radiuses to the ply...........
madjack

[Mentor58]

It's a Trailer for 2, and according to the documentation on the plans the curves aren't simple ellipses or radi. If I had gone with a benroy then I could just line and curve my way to fame an fortune, I have to be difficult. (besides, I REALLY REALLY like the profile)

smw

[asianflava]

Either way will work. I think option 2 would be more time consuming and more prone to error, depending on your resolution. Most likely, you will have to "Fine Tune" the cut with a belt sander no matter which way you choose, especially if you cut it out with a jigsaw.

[bobhenry]

My profile mistakes ....

Don't work with the actual side material get some cheap luan or 1/4" ply.
Transfer your profile to it if you need more than 1 sheet screw and glue thru them into some junk 1x4 leave the edges clear for about 6"-8" so a router can pass by the 1x4. The thinner material will be easier to cut and sand in the fine tuning process. This is your pattern cut all your pieces now I didn't and it was triple the work and time. Outside veneer or aluminum ? cut it now inside liner? cut it now be it veneer , beadboard , paneling or whatever cut it now. As well as both sides. That's 1 pattern 6 cuts should take you about 20 minutes to cut all layers after your pattern is made I probably have 6 to 8 actual working hours because I did the inside and the outside at different times long after my walls were cut and set. If you are using radius corners make a sled for your router. A 6" wide by however long you need piece of 1/8 " ply or old wood paneling. Mount you router onto the sled and put a nail as a pivot the distance from the bit equal to your radii this method makes a machine like curve and is real quick to set up and cut. When I cut Chubbys rough sides I used a 24" arc from 12 o'clock to 3 o clock and a 3' arc from 3 o ' clock to the bottom and a 9'8" arc from 12 o clock to tail. I probably didn't explain it well but both andrew and I have a post way back when I first logged in that has the drawings that may help. I'll see if I can locate and repost it.

[Mentor58]

You make PERFECT sense to me... Which means you should probably be concerned for your sanity. I like the idea of using some Luan at 10 bucks a sheet rather than the expensive stuff. (and it's going to be a LOT quicker to cut and shape up)

As always, thanks for the help, it's great not having to re-invent the wheel when there are plenty of folks here willing to share help.

Steve

My profile mistakes ....

Don't work with the actual side material get some cheap luan or 1/4" ply.
Transfer your profile to it if you need more than 1 sheet screw and glue thru them into some junk 1x4 leave the edges clear for about 6"-8" so a router can pass by the 1x4. The thinner material will be easier to cut and sand in the fine tuning process. This is your pattern cut all your pieces now I didn't and it was triple the work and time. Outside veneer or aluminum ? cut it now inside liner? cut it now be it veneer , beadboard , paneling or whatever cut it now. As well as both sides. That's 1 pattern 6 cuts should take you about 20 minutes to cut all layers after your pattern is made I probably have 6 to 8 actual working hours because I did the inside and the outside at different times long after my walls were cut and set. If you are using radius corners make a sled for your router. A 6" wide by however long you need piece of 1/8 " ply or old wood paneling. Mount you router onto the sled and put a nail as a pivot the distance from the bit equal to your radii this method makes a machine like curve and is real quick to set up and cut. When I cut Chubbys rough sides I used a 24" arc from 12 o'clock to 3 o clock and a 3' arc from 3 o ' clock to the bottom and a 9'8" arc from 12 o clock to tail. I probably didn't explain it well but both andrew and I have a post way back when I first logged in that has the drawings that may help. I'll see if I can locate and repost it.

[bobhenry]

Look in member design "teardrops have curves" I reposted Andrew's excellent drawings.

thanks again Andrew

Bob

[eamarquardt]

A friend of mine and I "discovered" schedule 1/2" PVC can be bent into nice curves and held in place with conduit clamps. Then you can use a pencil to lay out the curve on your "template". I, too, like the idea of using a piece of 1/8 to 1/4 inch ply as as a template for routing all pieces exaclty the same.

See my album for a picture of the pvc bent into my planned profile. Input welcome.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Gus

[bobhenry]

Damn ! I learned a trick today and my work is 30 yards from a plumbing supply shop.


Pretty neat, Gus

[48Rob]

Hi Steve,

Using stark white paper, cut out to your profile and taped to the trailer sides will quickly, and inexpensively, tell you if you like the profile, and what adjustments, if any, need to be made.

Although the cad program made a "perfect" pattern, once applied to the (temporary luan sides) it just wasn't right.
So, a few adjustments were made, and the "real" profile appeared.

Rob

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v284/1948rob/Cabin%20car%20project/template.jpg?t=1199750241">

[Dean_A]

I printed out my profile on a large-format printer onto a single sheet of paper, then used that to transfer the shape to the plywood.

I made the mistake though of trying to cut through 2 sheets of 1/2" ply at the same time with a sabre saw. Not pretty. It caused a lot of extra work to finally get everything straight, clean and (hopefully) matching.

Of course, I have a router now, so if I were to do it again, I'd do like was said above. Do it the first tim on something cheap and thin, then use that as the master for the router.