Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hey Gang,

Here's my problem. I really really want to get cracking on the walls, but to do so will require doing a lap joint to join the plywood. (sandwich construction with a 3/4 cab. grade ply forming the inner structure) Do you think that I can use Construction Adhesive (exterior formula) for the joint? I used it for the lap joints on the floor of the trailer and it seemed to have worked fine.

I have noticed that below 45 or so, the titebond 3 takes a very very very long time to set up, and that is outside it's listed temp range for working, but I don't see anything on the Construction Adhesive about a working range of temps, and that it is "Freeze - Thaw" stable.

Adding heat to the shop ISN'T an option, since I'm working in a storage unit. I've got electricity (when I run my generator), but of course that gets locked in the unit when I leave.

Any and all suggestions, recommendations, advice or tips would be greatly appreciated.

Steve

Got a living room? Doug

Do NOT rely on yellow glues below 50F. They will turn white instead of clear and have little or no strength. Don't know about construction adhesive.

Best,
Tom

Might be mistaken about it but I think the freeze/thaw stable means after it is on. If it doesn't have a temp. range I would check the manufacturer first then use it. You should only need to get the work area above 50 degrees for the time required to cure the glue.

If the cure time is less than a few hours maybe you can run a heater for a few hours.

Miriam C. wrote:Might be mistaken about it but I think the freeze/thaw stable means after it is on. If it doesn't have a temp. range I would check the manufacturer first then use it. You should only need to get the work area above 50 degrees for the time required to cure the glue.

If the cure time is less than a few hours maybe you can run a heater for a few hours.

Thank you Auntie M. I looked it up on the company's web site out on that InterWeb thingie that everybody talks about. Application Temp is 10 to 100 Deg F. Looks like I'll be able to get something done on it tomorrow.

My problem with trying to heat the place is two fold. One it's only 12 x 25, but a 12 - 14 foot ceiling on it. That's a lot of air high up that has to get heated. The second problem is that the only source of natural light is the garage door. If I leave the door open to be able to see, then I try to heat all of Mid-Tennessee. . I don't want to run the generator all the time when I don't need to.

I think I'll look at getting one of the "Heater Buddy" (?) brand heaters. They can run for quite a while on a couple of 1.5 pound bottles or be connected to a 20 pound tank. are safe for indoor use (I'll keep the door cracked, really, I promise), and have a built-in fan to help move the heat roun I can run the lights that I need off a Deep Cycle Battery and an inverter. I currently have a small (30 AH) battery that I use for some lights, but just upgrading isn't a bad idea. That may be the best option so that I'm not so weather dependent. Since I do most of my work with the cordless tools not having 15 amps of AC on hand at any given moment isn't a problem. I just get all the jobs that need the big circular saw or the router lined up and knock them out at one time.

Thanks for all the help, now I've got a plan, just have to go out tomorrow and execute the plan. (and by execute it, I mean at the end of the day the plan will be lined up against the wall and shot)

Thanks again.

Steve
ps... anybody want to buy two demon cats? I swear if they make it thru the night without me killing both of them and turning them into little kitty slippers it will be a miracle.

electric light and heat. An easy up over the top will help hold the heat in besides you can rent a large heater. And don't run a generator inside ------Right I would still not put pressure on the joints for a day even if the glue says you can.

btw---what brand is it? I waisted a lot of time last winter on glue and temperature.

I know what you're saying about losing time. I really only have the weekends to work on it (usually), so any time not spent doing something "Productive" feels like a big loss to me.

I never considered putting up a tent inside the building. (ok a gazebo). It would help a bunch. I don't run the generator inside ever!!!! Heck, I've only got 3 functioning brain cells left anyhow, and one of them is looking a little shaky. Besides, the sound of that generator INSIDE a steel storage unit would leave my ears ringing like the front row of a Heavy Metal concert.

The product that I'm looking at is the Liquid Nails Multip Purpose Wood Projects Construction Adhesive LN 940 It's the one in the gold and gold tube that everybody carries. Deep inside I know that glue doesn't actually dry, it cures with a chemical reaction, and if I try and get it to work outside it's recommend range then I'm just asking for trouble. (Sort of like using JB Weld to fix an exhaust Manifold). I learned that with the Titebond, luckly all I was glueing up were test pieces that I did to learn how to do it for the real McCoy.


Thanks Again,

Steve

Miriam C. wrote: electric light and heat. An easy up over the top will help hold the heat in besides you can rent a large heater. And don't run a generator inside ------Right I would still not put pressure on the joints for a day even if the glue says you can.

btw---what brand is it? I waisted a lot of time last winter on glue and temperature.

I would use epoxy for the lap joints. It will make the joints stronger than the plywood. Even polyurathane glue/gorilla glue would do a good job. The problem with construction adhesive is that it tales up too much room in the joint. I think it would be hard to get the two panels flush. A rented or borrowed heater would set up either glue in a few hours, then let time finish the job. I have kerosine heater that plugs in to generator it looks and sounds like a jet engine It would heat that space in no time. May need alittle ventilation to keep from getting a kerosine buzz.

I used construction adhesive to glue plywood to steel frame and to glue the subfloor to the frame. It did good job. when I had to remove a piece I had to pull the ply off in pieces and the scrape the steel. Construction adhesive can als be used like putty or calk to seal seams and radius inside corners.

Ever though of hanging thick clear ( or opaque) poly over the opening? I've done it plenty of times to block the wind and weather out while retaining some type of heat. Just tape around the edges and voila instant light transparent heat shield – sort of!

Hey,

I need new slippers. Send them over.

Hey Steve
I'm using PL polyurathane construction adhesive, to spred it out good get a pair of pinking shears (old if you can find them). I use them on both hard plastic puttyknives and bondo spreaders to cut the edge for a noched trowel.
Tried a steel one but got to much drap between the plywood and teeth. The glue peels off of the spreaders after it cures and you will have to recut the teeth because the wear kinda quick.

Joe W.