Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

The KIT teardrop has a 3" skirt that over hangs the frame. I guess meant to hide the frame. How do you think I should go about making this skirt and then how should I attach it?

Gage wrote:The KIT teardrop has a 3" skirt that over hangs the frame. I guess meant to hide the frame. How do you think I should go about making this skirt and then how should I attach it?

Gage, do you have a photo of it?

Kevin A wrote:

Gage wrote:The KIT teardrop has a 3" skirt that over hangs the frame. I guess meant to hide the frame. How do you think I should go about making this skirt and then how should I attach it?

Gage, do you have a photo of it?

Well if I was making a skirt Sorry Gage. Got pic.

Gage....isn't it part of the entire side height? Just make the sides and then hang them lower attached to a cleat with the floor to hide the frame. Sorry, I just can't remember what was done on my '49, but it was only a 4 x 8 sheet of material on the sides. No resto on it so never tore it apart, used it as it was. Maybe I don't understand what you're asking. doug

Mine was as Doug described the wood came down too.


Does that help?

I can't believe I got you guys. But seriously, what do you think about this approach. The KIT I'm rebuilding had the sides over hanging the floor and was glued and nailed. What I'm thinking about doing is building the main 'box' on top of the floor and then hang my outside skins over the floor.

Gage...looks like more work that either Matt or I mentioned....Nuff said!!! Doug

3/4" floor on a 4x8...I think you're yanking someones chain!

That 3" overhang is pretty tricky...if it were me, I would ditch the 2x hardwood and substitute 1/8 box 2x steel welded right to the frame. You can't be too careful!!!

Gage, we use 1"aluminum angle as a cleat to hang the wall over the floor and frame...we then use trailer deck screws to fasten the side wall to the frame...our floors are single sheet, usually 1/2" and sit directly on the chassis frame...we actually allow it to float and then attach the front bulkhead/tongue box and walls with the cleats(along with the rear bulkhead) and then fasten the sides to the trailer frame.......
madjack

doug hodder wrote:Gage...looks like more work that either Matt or I mentioned....Nuff said!!! Doug
3/4" floor on a 4x8...I think you're yanking someones chain!

I think it's considered part of the frame. I've only got 1/2 inch on the Scotsman. But the frame on the Scotsman is beefier than the KIT. I had asked Grant about the thickness and he said to stay with the 3/4 inch. I'm going to cut the 1/2" wall ply and insert foam board in the voids. You can see what I'm working with HERE.

-edit add-
The main frame is only 36" wide, 6" in from the sides and is made of 1.25 dia steel tubing (1/8" thick).

Gage wrote::rofl: I can't believe I got you guys.

Well, you have what you need to know, and am pretty sure you have decided on it... I'm not willing to set myself up for a hosing!!! I've seen what you've built previously...it'll work out whatever direction you decide on! Doug

Oh wait a minute. I'm the one who fired the first shot.
But I do have some things to think about now. Thank you all.

Yo, Gage!

What happened to that drawing I sent along with the profile ... ...? That should have shown you what you want to know ... ...

CHEERS!

Grant

grant whipp wrote:Yo, Gage!
What happened to that drawing I sent along with the profile ... ...? That should have shown you what you want to know ... ...
CHEERS!
Grant

I've got it. After I did up the sketch, I looked at your drawing and they are almost the same with the exception of the 1/4" exterior ply skin . Just goes to show you that great minds think alike.