Some Router Bit Questions

[Toytaco2]

I don't have a lot of experience using my router (just cutting out "slots" for the shelves in a built-in book case). I need to use a flush trim bit to trim my glued on wall skins (1/4" Baltic Birch) to match the framing profile underneath. My router uses 1/4" shank, but I see a number of different sizes/configurations of flush trim bits. What's the right one to use?

Also, I need to cut out the door profile and save them for later use as exterior door skins. Is it best to to do this with my jig saw or is some kind of a router bit a better choice. If so, what is the right bit? How large a diameter can the bit be before the door skins are too small for the opening?

Thanks,
Mike

[creekslick]

I don't have a lot of experience using my router (just cutting out "slots" for the shelves in a built-in book case). I need to use a flush trim bit to trim my glued on wall skins (1/4" Baltic Birch) to match the framing profile underneath. My router uses 1/4" shank, but I see a number of different sizes/configurations of flush trim bits. What's the right one to use?

Also, I need to cut out the door profile and save them for later use as exterior door skins. Is it best to to do this with my jig saw or is some kind of a router bit a better choice. If so, what is the right bit? How large a diameter can the bit be before the door skins are too small for the opening?

Thanks,
Mike

I used the 1/2" size but don't know if it would matter. I would use a jig saw but that is just 2 cents.

[bobhenry]

I cut my 1/2 osb sides out with a jig saw and they had a few waves in them. To eliminate these humps and valleys I sanded and sanded but while they were better they still showed.. After I glued on the luan outer skin I didn't want these to telegraph thru so I cut thin strips of 1/4 and brad nailed them to the osb profile then used these strips to guide my router bit. The profile on the luan was smooth and no dips. Any flush bit should work either with or without the bearing you are only cutting 1/4" material and if you burn the guiding material it won't matter.
I would definatly use the jig saw for the doors a router bit will take out a lot more material.

[AmyH]

Mike, I also used a 1/2" trim bit, just because that is what I had around. I used it to route all the skins I used in the tear and to flush trim my counter formica. Worked great!

For the doors, it seems most people use saws for that, but I used a router. I had a template that I used for cutting out my profiles, and on the same pattern I had the cut out for the door. I used pattern bit for this, and I think it was a 1/4" or 3/8" one (it's at home, so I am guessing that was the size I used). It worked great for me. I simply cleaned up the corners with a jig saw after I routed the doors out. I factored the thickness of the trim that will be around the doors, figured out what gap I needed when I install the doors, and picked my router bit size from there. This worked out great for me!

Here is a shot of the template, so you can see:



Here is a shot of the doors and profiles routed out (the profiles were stacked outside faces together):



Hope that helps.

[toypusher]

Also, I need to cut out the door profile and save them for later use as exterior door skins. Is it best to to do this with my jig saw or is some kind of a router bit a better choice. If so, what is the right bit? How large a diameter can the bit be before the door skins are too small for the opening?

I would use a 1/4" and no more than at 3/8" pattern bit for the doors. Depends on how you plan to mount your doors as to what would be too big!

[Leon]

I used a 1/4" bit to cut out my door, and took several passes to do it. With the T-trim on the edges of the opening, the door fits real nice.

[Ralf]

You can likley buy a 1/2 inch collet for your router. This gives you a lot of flexibility when buying bits. You may see one you want but it is 1/2 inch shank. My Porter cable came with 1/2 and 1/4 collets, they just screw on.

Flush trim bits take a beating . They come in different diameters and lengths. The wider the diameter the faster it spins. It is also good to have a top bearing bit and bottom bearing bit. With a top bearing bit you can put your pattern on top and see what your doing when following the pattern. These are sometimes called pattern bits. I have been routing 1/8 diamond plate aluminum. The straight blade bits build up with melted aluminum and you must stop every few inches to pick out the aluminum. I bit the bullet and bought a 3 inch spiral cut bearing bit which works better. It should for $80.

[chief5]

The larger diameter flush trim bits will make for a smoother cut if your pattern (wall framing) has imperfections such as irregular saw cuts. Either bit will work. The larger bit will be easier to roll along the pattern because the larger bearing makes it easier to overcome bumps in the pattern. Small diameter bits are required to follow the pattern in highly detailed areas not generally found on the side wall of a teardrop. Large diameter bits will leave undesireable material where the pattern makes a 90 degree or higher inside corner. Hope this didn't confuse you too much.

As for the doors, have you thought about a rotozip? The kerf size would be minimal with one of these.

Lorn