rivets or screws????

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

rivets or screws????

Postby urbanironaz » Wed Feb 27, 2008 9:48 pm

I am building a 5x8 teardrop with a 1"steel tube frame ..I was going to use 5"wide .063 alum ,but was told that it would be to stiff....so I am considering the alum. on a roll .040 I think or annealing the thicker stuff to soften a little .. :thinking: What is the best way to attach the alum skin to the steel frame???I was thinking pop rivets or self tapping sheet metal screws?? any one have any expeirence with either method?? 8)
urbanironaz
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 24
Images: 11
Joined: Fri Feb 22, 2008 6:09 pm
Location: cave creek,arizona

Postby doug hodder » Wed Feb 27, 2008 10:05 pm

VHB foam tape from 3M will hold the panels in place while you install your mechanical hardware. It will also stop galvanic action between the steel and the aluminum and minimize any rattles. Pop rivets will have a hole that will need to be sealed, and I don't think you'd be able to get in there to back up a huck type rivet. The RV industry regularly uses self tapping screws, just don't overtighten and twist one off. Just my thoughts on it, other opinions may vary. Doug
doug hodder
*Snoop Dougie Doug
 
Posts: 12625
Images: 562
Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 11:20 pm

Postby urbanironaz » Wed Feb 27, 2008 10:30 pm

thanks for the 3m tape idea :thumbsup: I guess a dab of silicone would seal the hole with rivets..but which is better rivets or screws for a long term? :thinking:
urbanironaz
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 24
Images: 11
Joined: Fri Feb 22, 2008 6:09 pm
Location: cave creek,arizona
Top

Postby DBizer » Wed Feb 27, 2008 10:43 pm

My thought would be that with expansion and contraction of the aluminum, pop-rivets could shear off and there is no way of re-tightening them. Screws would seem to be a better choice to me.

What about floating the skin under the edge, door/window trims?
"It's not that there are not enough hours in the day, it's that there are not enough days in the weekend !!! "
DBizer
Teardrop Advisor
 
Posts: 82
Images: 57
Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 8:37 pm
Location: New Braunfels, TX
Top

Postby doug hodder » Wed Feb 27, 2008 10:46 pm

Again...just my opinion. I think either one is going to be fine in the long run. There are old trailers running around that are riveted together for 50+ years. The self tapping screws are newer but done correctly I'm sure either one will give you plenty of years of service. If doing rivets, I would suggest getting a pneumatic gun to do it. I've never had outstanding results on that type of thing by just using a hand squeeze tool. I've redone a number of large truck cabs and trailer bodies using rivets, typically it's a faster method, and when it is all said and done, a cleaner appearance. I'd do a stainless screw if leaving the body in mill finish. A steel one will leave streaks on the aluminum as they rust, not a problem if you are painting however. A good point is raised about the expansion and contraction of the materials however. Personally I don't think it would be a major issue, it's not that large of a piece of material and you are going to have plenty of rivets and tape on it. Truck trailer bodies are built like that all the time, same goes for the sign industry. Check any Modernistic tear. Doug
Last edited by doug hodder on Wed Feb 27, 2008 10:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
doug hodder
*Snoop Dougie Doug
 
Posts: 12625
Images: 562
Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 11:20 pm
Top

Postby Jester » Wed Feb 27, 2008 10:53 pm

urbanironaz wrote:thanks for the 3m tape idea :thumbsup: I guess a dab of silicone would seal the hole with rivets..but which is better rivets or screws for a long term? :thinking:


IMO the srews may be a better approach. I base this on my RV and all the rivets that they have "securing" outside skin on it. I began drilling and replacing rivets that were broken for about 3 years. After that I began using screws and found that in the past 4 years I have not replaced one screw. During the first 3 years trial I replaced a number of my previoulsy replaced rivets.

That reminds me...Myrtle trip in three weeks....need to charge theDeWalt, it's "screw time" again!!
If it needs waxed OR pays to be waxed....It's gonna be trouble!!
User avatar
Jester
Teardrop Advisor
 
Posts: 61
Images: 65
Joined: Sun Feb 26, 2006 10:02 pm
Location: Western PA
Top

Postby doug hodder » Wed Feb 27, 2008 11:13 pm

Jester...I don't know what you have for an RV...but Airstream, Kenworth, Peterbuilt, Autocar, Mack has had pretty good results using rivets over the years as well as Trailmobile, Great Dane, Wabash, Fruehauf, and like I said, "if done correctly" ;) Doug
Last edited by doug hodder on Thu Feb 28, 2008 1:02 am, edited 1 time in total.
doug hodder
*Snoop Dougie Doug
 
Posts: 12625
Images: 562
Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 11:20 pm
Top

Postby urbanironaz » Thu Feb 28, 2008 1:00 am

To do it right would you suggest a alum.rivet or stainless rivet??and what about fastener spacing-I as thinking every 3-4" or so....any ideas?/ :thinking:
urbanironaz
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 24
Images: 11
Joined: Fri Feb 22, 2008 6:09 pm
Location: cave creek,arizona
Top

Postby doug hodder » Thu Feb 28, 2008 1:29 am

I'll go out on a limb here...I'd think you could get by with a larger spacing than you are thinking especially if you are going to use a tape also. I'd figure on a pattern that would allow you to attach the sides near the top and bottom and then space the rest using whatever attachment system you decide to use evenly over the rest of the height. 6" ought to be plenty. I can't remember what a Modernistic uses. They do use a close spacing on the roof/wall attachment lip. When you figure in a door and window, on the sides, there isn't large expanses of material that really need to be attached in short increments. A good seal on the rivet on the exterior can be done with aluminum, truck cabs are done like this all the time, but you gotta make it a good riveting job. Stainless is going to be considerably more expensive and in the end be more labor intensive, depending on what you have for tooling.

Others have mentioned floating the skin. Just my opinion, but if you don't have a substrate behind it and only have vertical studs that you aren't attached to, it just might be a problem down the road.

There are any number of ways to attach material, but my opinions are only based on attempting to attach aluminum skin to steel studs. I hope this is of some info and if others disagree...well, have at me. Doug
doug hodder
*Snoop Dougie Doug
 
Posts: 12625
Images: 562
Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 11:20 pm
Top

Postby madjack » Thu Feb 28, 2008 2:08 am

...the VHB is a definte way to go...you might well want to check out some of the body panel adhesives used in the car/truck body repair business...nowadaze most body panels on vehicles are bonded with an adhesive(usually a 2part urethane)...rivets versus screws...rivets done properly are great but screws are better...but that is just my opinion...Doug is correct about the big trucks, RV's and even airplanes but they are using special rivets and an air powered rivet gun...what ever you chose, I would put some type of tape on the steel to help prevent any galvinic reaction between the dis-similar metals........
madjack 8)

p.s. the .063 can be used, it is just a little harder to bend but a couple of straps with some boards placed under them will get it around most radiuses........MJ
...I have come to believe that, conflict resolution, through violence, is never acceptable.....................mj
User avatar
madjack
Site Admin
 
Posts: 15128
Images: 177
Joined: Thu Dec 02, 2004 5:27 pm
Location: Central Louisiana
Top

Postby asianflava » Thu Feb 28, 2008 2:23 am

On the tape thing. I recently had to tape something doen with 3M tape. They recommended using 3M's Prep - Sol 70. I really had a hard time finding it locally so I wiped everything down with naptha. Some of the silicone and wax removers I've used in the past were just naptha and alcohol.

Oh and make sure it isn't too cold when you do it.
User avatar
asianflava
8000 Club
8000 Club
 
Posts: 8412
Images: 45
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2004 5:11 am
Location: CO, Longmont
Top

Postby urbanironaz » Thu Feb 28, 2008 9:51 am

3m vhb????is that something i will find local or do i order it ...will 3m double stick tape work ??? :thinking:
urbanironaz
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 24
Images: 11
Joined: Fri Feb 22, 2008 6:09 pm
Location: cave creek,arizona
Top

Postby doug hodder » Thu Feb 28, 2008 10:02 am

They now sell it at Home Depots, in smaller rolls. Doug

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/VHB/Tapes/
doug hodder
*Snoop Dougie Doug
 
Posts: 12625
Images: 562
Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 11:20 pm
Top

Postby urbanironaz » Thu Feb 28, 2008 8:25 pm

thanks again snoop douggy for the info and the time :applause: This a is great asset for the do it yourselfer.. 8)
urbanironaz
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 24
Images: 11
Joined: Fri Feb 22, 2008 6:09 pm
Location: cave creek,arizona
Top

rivets or screws

Postby mary and bob » Fri Feb 29, 2008 12:55 am

our Modernistic is put together with aircraft type rivets, but it has screws to attach the sides to the frame. the screws are steel, and are rusted. I'm going to replace them with stainless screws.
mary and bob
500 Club
 
Posts: 822
Images: 3
Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2007 8:03 pm
Location: chatham n.y.
Top

Next

Return to Teardrop Construction Tips & Techniques

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests