Houston Voyager has malfunction

[Classic Finn]

Houston the Voyager has a malfunction..

I need help.. I mean the Voyager needs help..

The last rib across where the hinge is supposed to sit wobbles and it was too far for the very nice Better Than Hurricane Hinge from Grant..so I had to take it apart.

1st question - what is the best way of securely fastening the rib to the walls? Looks like my way failed.. The reason is also I cant screw the rib from the outside if I dont want to mess up the outer siding..

2 the rib was too far towards the front to set the hinge properly..

Also should that rib be narrower than what the hatch edge is where the other half of hinge should be installed? or is it ok if they are the same size? Ive got that rib totally out now since I have to redo it.. The rib is not the same thickness as the hatch edge.

3 - What is the proper procedure for installing this hinge once I get the rib problem fixed..

I see Grant has some sort of markings on the Hinge however not sure if they are for the cutting of it or was it his markings.. Maybe Grant will stop on in to this thread..

All was going too well I say.. to be true..

I will grab some pics so it will define the problem better..

Classic Finn

PS Garsh I wish I was closer to someone that could come and assist in solving this..

[GregB]

Finnster,

The best way I can think of is to drill pocket holes in the rib which screw into the inside of the walls. They won't penetrate the outer wall and, with glue, they are very strong. Kreg is a popular manufacturer of this jig, and doubtless, there is one available there. You will probably want to double up on ribs which support the hinge and glue them together to share the load.

Unless I totally misunderstand your post, I'm pretty sure that this will be the strongest solution for you.

GB

[Classic Finn]

Finnster,

The best way I can think of is to drill pocket holes in the rib which screw into the inside of the walls. They won't penetrate the outer wall and, with glue, they are very strong. Kreg is a popular manufacturer of this jig, and doubtless, there is one available there. You will probably want to double up on ribs which support the hinge and glue them together to share the load.

Unless I totally misunderstand your post, I'm pretty sure that this will be the strongest solution for you.

GB

Thank You GB yes indeed I do have a Kreg..

This is what I have..



Now does it make any difference as to if the screws are driven in from the top or from bottom?

also I have 1 inch screws and the & 1 -1/4 inch.. with 20 mm walls so I guess thats about 3/4 inch then..(I think)

Ok now I have Grants hinge here, How do I now determine the distance so the hatch will sit as supposed to near enough to each other. Or proper place for the Hinge itself?

Garsh I hope I explain this correctly with my Engleis..

I really am thankful for the help, this is embarrassing ...

Classic Finn

[Classic Finn]

I also have Oak wood here so should I laminate some together and remake that rib from Oak?

Also should that Rib be same thickness as the hatch edge?

I,ll go get some epoxy glue as well..I,ll get the width of the hatch edge for you but its wider.. the rib is 2 inch that I know..

UGH

Classic Finn

[toypusher]

Heikki,

Pictures, pictures, pictures so that we can be sure that we are all on the same page.

As far as the hinge spacing, you should be able to just measure the thinkness of the hinge where it will be between the tear and the hatch. Don't forget about screw heads if they come into play there.

[Classic Finn]

Heikki,

Pictures, pictures, pictures so that we can be sure that we are all on the same page.

As far as the hinge spacing, you should be able to just measure the thinkness of the hinge where it will be between the tear and the hatch. Don't forget about screw heads if they come into play there.

Ok Kerry I,ll get photos for you back in awhile..

[Classic Finn]

Ok lots of pics coming up in a few minutes..Below you see the Voyager under repairs.. Still with protective film on the sides..with the Kreg system.





Classic Finn

[toypusher]

Heikki,

Have a look at the Generic Benroy plans on page 20 and again starting on page 56 and see if that answers some of your questions.

[toypusher]

one think from the photos. Your hatch looks to be designed to just have the edge overhang the sidewalls. Are you putting anything else on the edge of the hatch??

BTW: I have to go away from the PC for a while. I will check back later.

[Classic Finn]

one think from the photos. Your hatch looks to be designed to just have the edge overhang the sidewalls. Are you putting anything else on the edge of the hatch??

BTW: I have to go away from the PC for a while. I will check back later.

Dont know if I understand you correctly,by putting somthing on the edge
of the Hatch? Ply or ?







Boy do I feel frustrated however persistent..

Here is the pic I have the question on..the top is the Rib at 2 inches and under it is the Hatch top edge at a wider width.. about 2 3/4 " close to ..

Should the rib be the same width as the Hatch top edge? Does that make a diffference or no?



The pic below shows the "Centaflex or Centraflex "on it however the rib gave away..

Notice what the rib is made out of? Like 2 or 2.5 inch ply..It should be sturdy but the install was bad..




Classic Finn

[Classic Finn]

Should I make the holes with the Kreg from the Top and Bottom or should I make the screw holes with the Kreg from both sides?

Should I make a new rib and out of Oak laminated together to equal that of the hatch top ? Stronger?

I hate to see that Mahogany getting scrtached and dinged so I have to resand and varnish again once this nightmare is over..

Classic Finn

PS I also went and picked up some epoxy quick setting glue..

[tonyj]

Let's redefine some terms.

You have pulled out the body-side hinge spar because it was deflecting, correct? The next roof spar looks to be another inch or two away from the location of the body-side hinge spar you removed, so cutting back to that spar isn't possible (or even suggested).

My suggestion--laminate up (with epoxy) two pieces for the body-side hinge spar. Their dimension (height or depth) doesn't have to equal the hatch-hinge spar. If you can use your kreg jig to place two screws in each end of the body-side hinge spar as well as mounting with glue or epoxy, the body-side hinge spar should be sufficiently fastened and able to withstand the flexing caused by the hinge. You will get the most strength from the hinge installation if the body side hinge is screwed in from the top into the top of the doubled-up spar. Just remember that you may have to space the screws at the end to avoid screwing into the Kreg mounted screws.

[Classic Finn]

Let's redefine some terms.

You have pulled out the body-side hinge spar because it was deflecting, correct? The next roof spar looks to be another inch or two away from the location of the body-side hinge spar you removed, so cutting back to that spar isn't possible (or even suggested).

My suggestion--laminate up (with epoxy) two pieces for the body-side hinge spar. Their dimension (height or depth) doesn't have to equal the hatch-hinge spar. If you can use your kreg jig to place two screws in each end of the body-side hinge spar as well as mounting with glue or epoxy, the body-side hinge spar should be sufficiently fastened and able to withstand the flexing caused by the hinge. You will get the most strength from the hinge installation if the body side hinge is screwed in from the top into the top of the doubled-up spar. Just remember that you may have to space the screws at the end to avoid screwing into the Kreg mounted screws.

Hi Tony.. geepers I wish someone was here as frustrating this is..
Yes Tony I pulled the body Rib due to that exactly..

So Tony the hinge spar on the body is a type of ply.. would it be better then with the Oak? Or plain Birch? Laminated together?

Ive got the epoxy at hand now..

Also my question is: After the rib is secured.. Do I go ahead and install the body side of the Hinge first? And what length do I cut that Hinge on that side? Is that side the Inner to Inner wall length then?

Sorry for asking these question but Im nervous so I dont make a mistake since this hinge is the only one of its kind here.

The Hatch is just leaning on the back of the Tear Wall due to the wiring being there so I didnt take the hatch all the way..

Classic Finn

[tonyj]

Hi Tony.. geepers I wish someone was here as frustrating this is..
Yes Tony I pulled the body Rib due to that exactly..

So Tony the hinge spar on the body is a type of ply.. would it be better then with the Oak? Or plain Birch? Laminated together?

Ive got the epoxy at hand now..

Also my question is: After the rib is secured.. Do I go ahead and install the body side of the Hinge first? And what length do I cut that Hinge on that side?

Classic Finn

I think laminated hardwood (mahogany, oak) would be better than ply here. I would have no problem using the ply for the other spars, but not on the hinge location. I think birch might be too soft, but I've only worked with birch ply.

As to cutting the hinge, the total length of the hinge should allow it to overlap the sides of the tear by about a quarter inch on each side. The vertical leg that rests against the face of the spar will have to have a notch trimmed to fit within the walls, leaving material the extend past the outside of the wall.

When I mounted my hinge, since I was working alone, I positioned the hatch to the trailer using shims to position the hatch. I put the hinge in place and marked the screw hole locations on the hatch and the body. I removed the hatch and installed the complete hinge to the hatch. I reinstalled the hatch with hinge and screwed down the body-side hinge. If you have a couple of people, you can then slide the hatch off, but you run the chance of bending or damaging the hinge. I always elected to screw and unscrew the body-side hinge if I had to remove the hatch (and that happened a bunch!)

[Classic Finn]

Ok here is what Ive started pronto to do..





Im gluing these together at the moment.. and yes its Oak. To make a new Body Side Spar for the Hinge..

Classic Finn