Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I see that several members have used pocket hole jigs for everything from securing the floor to the base wooden frame to cabinet frames. TomS has a nice slide show on his web site about assembling his cabinet frames.
http://www.tomswenson.com/teardrop/#

The jigs look quite nice for someone dado/rabbet/dovetail challenged such as myself, albeit, at a price.

I am wondering one is commited to using a certain kind of screw when using the jig. Also, is it necessary to drill pilot holes?

I am trying to adopt the Kuffel Creek philosophy of not buying all new tools for my upcoming adventure in cabinets, but this one is mighty tempting.

Thanks,

San Diegan wrote:
I am wondering one is commited to using a certain kind of screw when using the jig. Also, is it necessary to drill pilot holes?

Yes to specific screws, no to pilot holes.

The screws have a square shoulder to spread the load, and the points are designed not to split the un-piloted wood (though splits do happen...). They're good quality screws, and not unreasonably priced. Going cheap here won't make you very happy.

The step-drill likes a fast drill. Kreg recommends 3,000 RPM, which generally requires a corded drill. It's no huge deal if you don't have one. Slower speeds cut too, but they are harder on the bit.

You also want a quality drill to drive the screws, so you can set the torque and speed to the wood you're working. You don't ram it home so much as pulse it snug.

I make it sound harder than it is. A minimal amount of TLC makes a really strong joint, FAST.

Get yourself a McFeely's catalog. Not only does it offer screews but there is a load of information in it. Web address is www.mcfeelys.com

Dennis T

the local Lowe's here in Georgia have these jigs. From just jig bit and stop to full blown kit $20.00 too $100.00 .

Lowes also has the square drive screws for them too.

My wife, Wendy gave me the full-blown kit for Christmas. She got the idea from my son, Craig, a carpentry student at a local vocational high school.

The screws are sold in specifc lengths according to the thickeness of material being joined. They also come in corse thread for softwoods, or fine thread for hard woods.

The jig is set up according to the thickness of the material being joined. A stop collar on the drill bit controls the depth of your hole.

I haven't had a problem yet with splitting I drive the scrwes using a cordlesss screw gun. I just set the cluttch on the screw gun about half way. The real test will come in a couple of weeks when I start assembling face frames.

I have assembled my wall framing with pocket holes using the Craig Jig and screws. No splitting and good glue squeze out. If you value your time the jig is a bargan.

I use a corded drill (2000 rpm) for the holes and a cordless to drive the screws.

Pics of framing in my personal gallery on this site.

Thanks for the response, folks..

I took another look at the Kreg site, and the quantity 1000 price is not too bad .

1 X 2 (3/4 x 1 1/2 in real life) hardwood face frames for an additional galley cabinet and an additional cabin cabinet are what I have in mind initially. And a few household projects. Time saved can be used for more detailed work elsewhere.

Heading to Lowes after Church tomorrow. It's a three day weekend, so maybe I'll have a chance to test it out. I also want to look at some extra strong drawer sliders while I am at Lowes.

TomS, you are looking pretty happy about that door.

Tom

Sorry for the late post, but I've got a last minute input. I'm cheap. I can't see paying the price of the Kreg outfit. I found a good jig for lots less. SteelX from the Utter Guys has a versital jig for $9.99. Might help

I bought the basic Kreg jig but found that my drill was too slow and caused the holes to be really rough in the fir I used for my cabinet so I went out and bought a high speed drill (corded) which worked much nicer and something I needed anyway.

I also used my cordless drill for driving the screws as I could set the clutch to not overtighten them. I did end up drilling pilot holes since I was having a lot of splitting problems.

I can see where the more expensive jigs would be easier and more accurate to use since I had a hard time clamping down the jig where it wouldn't move.

Nick.

Nick,

I misstated the speed of my drill in the above post, it is actually 2500 rpm not the 2000 as previously stated. It makes a big difference in the quality of the pocket hole. I really do not understand your problem with splitting but I have not tried mine on fir. I have only had one split in oak and have used over a hundred of the fine thread self tapping Kreg screws in oak. I also used the jig on some 2x pine with good results on another project.

Sometimes when using the Rocket jig, which is the one I think you mentioned it is necessary to get creative with the clamping. I have used the hole provided in the jig to actually screw it in place before drilling the pocket hole.

Larwyn wrote:Nick,

I misstated the speed of my drill in the above post, it is actually 2500 rpm not the 2000 as previously stated. It makes a big difference in the quality of the pocket hole. I really do not understand your problem with splitting but I have not tried mine on fir. I have only had one split in oak and have used over a hundred of the fine thread self tapping Kreg screws in oak. I also used the jig on some 2x pine with good results on another project.

Sometimes when using the Rocket jig, which is the one I think you mentioned it is necessary to get creative with the clamping. I have used the hole provided in the jig to actually screw it in place before drilling the pocket hole.

The drill I'm using is a 2000 rpm one.

You're right about the creative clamping with the jig but I used the even cheaper Mini Jig.

I think my problem was that the fir stock I used wasn't a full 3/4" thick and I had to play with the placement so that the screws didn't reach too far into the second piece of wood. The splitting occured mostly at the ends of the rails and it didn't seem to matter which way I went into the grain. Overall I was happy with it, especially since the joints were self-clamping. When I do face frames on normal cabinets, I use biscuits since I am nailing them to a cabinet box right after assembly. Not that I'm an expert woodworker or have a lot of practice with either method.

Nick.

What I am hearing is high RPM drill motor for boring the hole and a well clutched drill for driving the screws. That's fairly consistant with my normal mode of operation. I have a fairly good, corded model for drill bits and a very adjustable cordless for driving.

Thanks for the information. I am certain that there are several things here that I would have to have "discovered" were it not for your experience.

Tom

Nick,

That is the one jig that came in the Kreg kit that I have not yet used. It does apear to lack a proper clamping surface. Bet it will come in really handy for adding a pocket hole to an existing joint. They all have their strong points.

Glad to hear you are having good luck with bisquit joints. Maybe I was too critical of them. A few years ago I glued up a couple of test joints using bisquits. When I tested them for strength the wood split at the bisquit slot and the bisquit itself broke off. I was not impressed so proceeded to use dowel pins on that project. The bisquit jointer has lain forgoten ever since.

Florida Bob wrote:Sorry for the late post, but I've got a last minute input. I'm cheap. I can't see paying the price of the Kreg outfit. I found a good jig for lots less. SteelX from the Utter Guys has a versital jig for $9.99. Might help

I like that one because of the adjustability. It's nice in that you can vary the distance between the holes or use just one half of it. Could be a little tougher to clamp down tho with the two pieces.