Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hi guys, I need advice before I make a total mess. Originally I added two inches to the spring hanger to keep the tires off the floor without having them inside.

Now I am thinking of lowering it. Problem is I am not sure I can build enough support to cut holes in the floor.

If I put support boards on top of the floor (inside) will that hold up the floor...
This is what I am thinking of doing on the inside hall to raise the floor 3 inches.
but from the inside.


All opinions welcome and appreciated. As I said I am not sure this is a good idea.

Will all this frame work be hidden under the bed?

I think if you tie the frame work to the frame work underneath you should do just fine. Trouble may be finding the underside framework. Then comes sealing the underside back up.

good luck del

del wrote:Will all this frame work be hidden under the bed?

I think if you tie the frame work to the frame work underneath you should do just fine. Trouble may be finding the underside framework. Then comes sealing the underside back up.

good luck del

Del, there is no frame work between the wheels at all. Just the ply. This is the frame




The problem is visible in the pictures. The springs need replacing (should have listened to Coop) so I thought while I was at it I would remove the long shackles and maybe even put the axle above the springs. That may be going too far though. A bit low that way.

To do this I think I need to frame from above but I am not sure that will be enough structural support because the above support won't land over the metal.

well, what are you gonna do with a tire sticking through the floor when you cut the hole and lower the trailer?

Jiminsav wrote:well, what are you gonna do with a tire sticking through the floor when you cut the hole and lower the trailer?

Paint it a funny color so I can watch it go round and round.

Really a floor across is fine because the thing is 57 inches inside. Loosing a few won't hurt.

Miriam C. wrote:
Del, there is no frame work between the wheels at all. Just the ply. This is the frame




The problem is visible in the pictures. The springs need replacing (should have listened to Coop) so I thought while I was at it I would remove the long shackles and maybe even put the axle above the springs. That may be going too far though. A bit low that way.

To do this I think I need to frame from above but I am not sure that will be enough structural support because the above support won't land over the metal.

I am assuming the floor is just ply attached to the metal frame (unlike the generic plans, which has both wood cross members, and metal cross members) My thoughts are make sure the frame work you build goes between the frame rails, spreading their weight onto the metal cross members. Now how much you lower it depends on how deep you build the wheel wells. if going the entire distance on top of the floor gets in the way, go underneath with the frame work. Will this wheel well end up in the doorway?
In my opinion the leaf springs need shorter shackles. The tyre rub on the floor says to me the springs are flexing, and not too stiff.

del

what I was thinking Miriam, was that if you put the tires through the floor, you'll need wheel wells, and if you make wheel wells and screw through the bottom into them, your gonna be fine.

Don’t know if this helps any, but my wheel cut outs have no frame under them. They are plywood boxes over the wheel attached with screws from underneath and from the sides - sealed with aluminumized – butyl tape. It seals and helps to bond the structure. That stuff holds like heck when it sets.

There is a box inside the top and bottom ply layers but I don't remember them crossing near the wheels.

And yes the wheels are at the door.

I swiped this from Mike S. and I am thinking If I raise this to 1x3's or 4's I will get the height I need. I am wondering if I put 1x3's (or 2x4's) the length of the bed with pocket screws and crossing to make the wheel wells if it will all fall through for lack of support. I guess I need to screw from below too huh.

Starleen2 I looked at your site. I think that is what I need but I am thinking of going across with the floor as I might slip if I try a step down.

I appreciate you all you know!

The springs are flattened out and I think they will break if I hit a bump hard. Already it lumbers side to side. They have small gaps at the ends too. So they get replaced for sure.

Miriam, have you considered smaller diameter tires and rims? That might give you a few extra inches clearance.

your idea should work as long as your framing of the substructure boxes the wheel cut out. A 2x3 (or 4) will give plenty of support considering both a original floor inner structure and interior flooring. Screw and glue from both sides. (Working on a graphic illustration) And about the space beteen floors, maybe some insulation??

Miriam C. wrote:There is a box inside the top and bottom ply layers but I don't remember them crossing near the wheels.

And yes the wheels are at the door.

I swiped this from Mike S. and I am thinking If I raise this to 1x3's or 4's I will get the height I need. I am wondering if I put 1x3's (or 2x4's) the length of the bed with pocket screws and crossing to make the wheel wells if it will all fall through for lack of support. I guess I need to screw from below too huh.

The springs are flattened out and I think they will break if I hit a bump hard. Already it lumbers side to side. They have small gaps at the ends too. So they get replaced for sure.

One of the side effect of too long of shackles, is the springs are allowed to flatten. Shorter shackles will force the springs to regain their ark. Note it may be a challenge to bolt them back on.

del

Jim Marshall wrote:Miriam, have you considered smaller diameter tires and rims? That might give you a few extra inches clearance.

I have considered everything but smaller tires. These are 8". Really Jim if I could talk myself into it I would take it apart and do it over. New springs will take it off the floor but while I am at it I think it will look nicer if it is lower.

Not sure how much more clearance you need but....I'm an old 4x4 kinda guy and have seen many guys put blocks between the axle plate and the springs. I can see from the pics you have enough u-bolt thread to accomondate some more lift in that area. That would eliminate changing tire sizes etc.. Lenghtening the shackle was a good idea but the geometry does not give you the lift you need (I'm sure you found that out).
Axle blocks are very simple and you get an equal amount of lift in relation to how high your blocks are example: 2" block will give you 2" of lift at the axle, moving the top of the tire down 2" from the trailer floor.
Since this is a trailer and does not require any angle adjustment like a drive train does, this would be a very easy fix. BTW: I am talking about STEEL blocks not WOOD. I have seen that though on vehicles people actually drove !!

Sorry Miriam Did not see that you wanted to lower the whole trailer before I prattled on about those blocks!!