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Using door casing as door seal...(or is this stupid)

PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 1:54 pm
by Juneaudave
Part of the problem about building a Tear and never having seen one, is that you just don't know if your screwing up.
:oops: :oops:

Given the rain around here...sealing the doors is a critical step. My thought was to use the inside door casing as the water seal and door stop...and epoxy the bejesus out of the sills to make it water tight. So I started to trim it out this morning. Here is about where I am...I have the casing about 3/8 inch proud to the opening...

Image


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Is this going to work? I could surely use some advice on the following type of door installation. The other option it would seem is to have the seal on the outside with T molding or wood...that's a little problematic for me given the look I am trying to get...Thanks all...
:thinking: :thinking: :thinking:

PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 2:25 pm
by Miriam C.
Dave I have the same set up and a rubber seal (like the hatch seal) to help keep things dry. Works great even with my temp door. 8)

and Epoxy the daylights (litterally) out of it. ;)

PSSS---love the cabinet doors. :thumbsup:

PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 2:31 pm
by halfdome, Danny
I think Madjack did his that way. Grant has some really nice self stick door sealant. :) Danny

PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 3:30 pm
by Micro469
Steve Frederick does it this way. If your door is flush to the inside wall when closed, make sure you have a spacer in there to give the seal some room, otherwise you won't be able to close the door.......

] :thumbsup:

PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 5:10 pm
by Toytaco2
Amen to building a TD without ever seeing one live and in person. I have the same questions about how to seal the door. I wouldn't have thought of the need for the spacer if the door closes flush to the inside. Thanks for that tip John. I guess it is the same principle as needing a notch for the hatch to close, I just would have forgotten to do it on the door.

PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 5:39 pm
by Juneaudave
Thanks all...that's encouraging...I'm just a compulsive over-thinker on these doors...dreading the thought of a wet mattress, having the interior smell like a combination of mold and wet dog, closing the trailer up for the night and seeing the midnight sun shining through the cracks where those doors just don't quite fit...

I would surely appreciate any other thoughts on how this sort of set-up might work, what to avoid, and what problems other have had.

Yours trully...Paranoid Juneaudave :? :? :?

PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 5:47 pm
by Miriam C.
:lol: Well paranoid Dave, if you make it too tight you won't be able to breath. Get a mattress cover so it won't get wet. :thumbsup: ;) :lol: Don't know what to tell you about the dog. :R

PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 5:59 pm
by prohandyman
Steve Frederick does it this way. If your door is flush to the inside wall when closed, make sure you have a spacer in there to give the seal some room, otherwise you won't be able to close the door.......

Yes, and he also tints the epoxy black so that the edge grain of the wood, both on the door, and in the jamb is concealed! Pretty smart dude that Steve!

PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 6:11 pm
by Nitetimes
That's the way I did mine too. I also did the same thing on the outside of the doors so mine is double sealed. Never get any water in it tho! :thumbsup:

PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 6:16 pm
by Micro469
Here's a page from Steve's website....
http://www.campingclassics.com/diner5.html

:thumbsup:

PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 6:16 pm
by Gage
Juneaudave wrote:Thanks all...that's encouraging...I'm just a compulsive over-thinker on these doors...<snip>

Yours trully...Paranoid Juneaudave :? :? :?

Nothing wrong with over thinking. Benefit is that when you finish, you'll be finished. There'll be nothing you wish you had done. ;)

And don't forget the shim. Just a little thinner than the seal. I built my door to take the seal on the outside. I have 'T' molding clear around my doors so water don't even get into the opening. Something to think about. Your way will also work just fine.
:thumbsup:

PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 6:24 pm
by Juneaudave
prohandyman wrote:
Steve Frederick does it this way. If your door is flush to the inside wall when closed, make sure you have a spacer in there to give the seal some room, otherwise you won't be able to close the door.......

Yes, and he also tints the epoxy black so that the edge grain of the wood, both on the door, and in the jamb is concealed! Pretty smart dude that Steve!


Marian..the dog smell is likely to follow no matter what I do...its the dog/mold combo that kills me...BTW...thanks for every bright ray of sunshine you bring to the board!!!!
:thumbsup:

Micro and Dan...I better pull out Steve's manual!!! He's done it right...but a fella can't feel constrained by good instructions when your sitting in the moaning chair thinkin "Well what if I do it this way???" Bang..bang...bang.......duh...pay attention Juneaudave!!!

Dan...btw..How did you do yours? Got pics? You have the look I want!!! :applause: :applause: :applause:

PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 7:17 pm
by Dooner
This is how I did mine. I've been in the rain sitting and towing. I have not had any water get in yet. There is no rubber seal or anything. It is tighter fitting than what the picture shows, but gapped enough not to rub or stick. The water would have to get into the crack, then around three corners before entering the trailer interior. I also have a diverter or guard over the top of the door.

Image

PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 7:57 pm
by t-vicky
Dave, After checking out your pics I really hate to bust your bubble, but the fenders really should go on the outside.

PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 9:18 pm
by Juneaudave
t-vicky wrote:Dave, After checking out your pics I really hate to bust your bubble, but the fenders really should go on the outside.


Uuuggg..believe you me...that fender is much safer just where it is at!!!! :lol: