Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I am building my woody using epoxy for the top coat on the exterior. I have heard from some offering suggestions, but would like to really get everyones opinion. What I have done is cut the shape, and doors out, overlay the plywood with marine grade okume mohogany, dyed it and have 3 coats of uv protectant epoxy on it. I plan on attaching the sides to the frame this weekend. The "framing" for the woody appearance is going to be done in maple and will all be prefinished. It will be attached after the top aluminum skin is done and most of the trailer is finished up. Then I plan on shooting the whole works, except the aluminum with automotive clear coat. Has anyone out there used this process? My thoughts were that if I did the prefinish on the mohogany field first, I could minimize a lot of sand time and hand work. I know that others did everything while the sides were vertically mounted. I think it was a lot easier doing the boats as I didn't have to work around the maple framing. It will be approx. 3/8 high on top of the mohogany. Ideas and opinions are greatly appreciated. Pictures to follow in my album this weekend. Thanks, Doug Hodder

Doug,
I was waiting for you to do the clearcoat first to see how it was done and then do both of my woody's as well. Sounds like a good way to protect the wood and the finish

Woody........it may be a while before the clear coat gets shot. I am also considering a decorative treatment on the aluminum skin, and it may get shot with clear coat also. I need to do a test first, and finally decide on my pattern on the aluminum. Also I don't know how I am going to polish out the clear coat with the raised framing. I'm going to have to get real creative and develop some more patience. I want it ideally with a top finish like my boats...Doug Hodder

Doug,
I saw the picture of the boat you posted WOW!I used a high grade marine spar varnish on my first woody. I have been looking into awlclear (Think that is what they call it) for my next one. I have never worked with the stuff other than awlgrip on some yacht work that we had done over the years. Painting and varnishing was never my bag though. I always left that to the "professionals". Now I am conforonted with doing it and its time to learn more. I have noticed that the expansion and contraction of the wood was diminished by sealing both sides since the woody sides on my teardrop are free floating

That is how I was thinking of doing the finish on mine too. Cut and frame the walls, finish the outside (haven't decided on a finish yet ) put it together and shoot the whole thing. Seems like it would be a lot easier to do the wood while it is laying down and I would really like to have a smooth, near mirror finish when the clear is applied.
I, personally thought that the clearcoat urethane would be the most durable finish you could put on it, it can take the heat and sun and a pretty good pounding too. Besides the easy maintainance (best part).

Dear Doug,

Everything I can find on aniline dyea says they are not to be used for exterior applications. Can you please set me on thje right path to undestanding which dyes you use or what techniques you use to get past the "noexterior application" warning

Guy,
Aniline dye can be used on an exterior surface, but the surface needs to be sealed and given UV protection.

Guy, I spoke to the people at Gougeon bros, the manufacturers of West System epoxy, and they told me that the #207 special hardener will provide the necessary protection. They specialize in boat finishes. On top of that, automotive clear coat also adds to the protection. Anilin dye on it's own is not uv stable, it has to have some protection, as do most dyes and stains. According to the information at woodworkers supply, "anilin dyes should never be used for exterior applications... and that water based anilin dyes provide the most light fast colors. Applying a clear topcoat with UV protective additives will extend the life of any dye color." I am using 3-4 coats of UV protective epoxy, with 2 coats of auto clear coat which adds to it. I haven't had a problem yet with it on my boats. For me, and I'm using epoxies, you can't use an oil based stain/dye as it will alter the bond between the epoxy and the wood, and alcohol based stains fade quicker, so the water based dye was the answer for me. Also you get the most intense color using a dye as opposed to a stain. On the top of my boat, using 2 different color dyes under epoxy and clear coat, I can regularly get 10 degrees difference in temperatures from the red to the dark walnut. Nothing has separated yet and the color is holding. I can only speak from my experience, and I may be sorry down the road, but it's too late now. We'll see. I look at it this way, 6 years from now I may be tired of the color and will sand/grind it all off and redo it. I think right now it beats the annual maintenance of varnish. Just my opinion. doug hodder PS I hope that I didn't offend any varnish people....

I'm an old varnish guy and no offense taken - I intend to use epoxy and Imron or Awlclear for top-coat also. Just for $hit$ and giggles I'll probably give the thing a coat of UV rated paste wax once a year or so. Another thing to consider is: Most boats with a lot of varnish are large yachts or blow-boats that sit in the water year-round with no shade, always in the sun and very likely in salt-water. A teardrop may be under a tree, in a garage, or under a tarp. A LOT less wear-n-tear on the finish. My brother- in-law does upholstery work and I've even thought about a Sunbrella cover for the top for a little extra protection.
BTW, thanks for the info on aniline dyes - I didn't know about the UV effects on them.

Thanks fo the info, Doug. What Brand and colours of Aniline dye dis you use on your boat?
WHere did you buy it?

Doug, You're getting me interested in automotive clear coat..Do you do it yourself? Can an electrician learn? If I had to have it done, would I need to re-mortgage my house??

Steve.....yes I shoot all my own stuff, I used to custom fabricate fire fighting equipment so had to be pretty versatile. If you can spray lacquers you can spray this stuff. An hvlp gun is almost a necessity as the older high pressure ones will waste a lot of material, and it ain't cheap. A good respirator, understanding neighbors, as they will probably smell it and the ability to spray is all you need. You need to remember that the top finish is only as good as what's under it. All the epoxy needs to be sanded really well to at least a min. of 400 grit. Tack cloth off the epoxy and spray just like any other lacquer. You need to get the right temperature reducers for your condition. It doesn't flash off as quickly as a nitrocellulose lacquer, but does go pretty quickly. Electricians may have a hard time learning this, but you can always talk to an old geologist to find out how... LOL I don't know how much you would have to pay to have it done. doug hodder

Guy.... go to www.woodworkers.com for anilin dyes. I used dark colonial red mohogany and dark brown walnut, but I also doctored the formula, another plus to using dyes. This site has a downloadable color chart. Doug Hodder