Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

My aluminum sheeting is hanging over my wheel wells a bit and since they're curved I was wondering if using a carbide flush cutting router bit would work? Anyone try this before, or suggestions? Thanks

Lucas

It's been done successfully by some folks here. I haven't tried it yet, but I've heard the secret is to keep the router at a slow speed.

I agree with Dean.

When I tried to router it off, the aluminum melted and clogged up my bit. I ended up using a jig saw to cut it... both the door opening and the overhang...



Mike...

I tried it with a router. As mike said it melted and clogged up the bit.
I used a rotozip and it worked great. It left a nice smooth edge. It will burn up the bit so when you see it turn black after 3-4' you need to adjust up or down using a different part of the bit. I used about a dozen bits doing the door openings and the top edge.
Make sure you put blue tape where the base will rest on or the shavings will get under it and scratch it. Also make sure there is a template or edge to follow. You can't freehand it, it will get away from you.

That's a good point about the tape. You should do that if you use the jig saw to. It's pretty easy to scratch up the aluminum if you're not careful.

Absolutely good point about the blue tape.

In my picture up there, the protective plastic is still on the aluminum, otherwise I would have used protective tape too!

Mike...

I must have done something wrong with the Scotsman. I cut my doors (alum), both the opening and the door with a rotozip with a 3/8" router with a pilot and had no problem. Maybe because I was moving right along and not giving it time to heat the alum. I guess I should slow down when I start cutting the skins on the KIT that I'm rebuilding so I can identify with what every one else is/has gone through.


Well, that's my post for this week.

Yeah I figured out the aluminum chips uder the jig saw scratching thing pretty quick. The thing is my skin is already attached and even though I traced it while it was temporarily clamped on it didn't come out perfect. So rather than risk cutting it too small I cut on the large side and trimmed any overhang. But the wheel wells are tricky because I can't see what I'm doing from the back side. I used tin-snips and the jig saw everywhere else it came out decent (will be covered with trim or windows too) but I don't want to mess up at this point. The snips don't seem to cut along an edge good, the jig saw will cut into the wood if I'm not super careful and can see the back side, and my electric shears won't work either. Anyways I guess I'll figure something out. I do have a Dremel but no a Rotozip.

a router works great, just remember to let the router decide what direction it wants to go in.,..one way works great, the other way way leads to damnation and ruin..and a new bit.
so remember, if it fights you going one way, go the other.

I rough cut all my openings with jigsaw or shears cutting 1/8 to 3/16ths proud of the line. I then used a laminate trim router with a carbide flushcut bit with bearing to clean up the cuts. Didn't slow the router, but usually masked with tape to prevent scratching. No clogged bit (and I am in fact still using the bit for other woodworking projects).

But be careful. Watch the rotation of the bit in relation to the work, and wear goggles or a face shield and gloves--those little metal shaving are sharp and fly everywhere. They are hot coming off the cut, too.

I have not tried it, but I read to use WD-40 or oil on the aluminum, and take it really slow.

LMarsh wrote:My aluminum sheeting is hanging over my wheel wells a bit and since they're curved I was wondering if using a carbide flush cutting router bit would work? Anyone try this before, or suggestions? Thanks

Lucas

I do it all the time and it took a while to perfect it but here is what works. Get the cheapest tiny trim router at harbor freight and cover the base with masking tape. Also get the little plug in device for slowing the device down and dial it down to the slowest speed. Don't trim more than an 1/8 but less is better. Wear safety glasses and long sleeves those chips hurt.

Thanks for the tips. Sounds like for about $20 I have a couple options.

Lucas

IMHO, a router is the ONLY way to go. We cut ALOT of aluminum with a 1/2" flush trim bit. Never had a problem (unless you count the chips landing on your arm, ouch!).

Anything smaller than a 3/8" bit and you will get the melting/clogging as the bit doesn't have sufficient exit routes for the chips. A 1/2" bit is cheap, works great and lasts forever. We get about 12 trailers out of 1 bit.

Also, we just run it in a PC laminate trim router. No RPM adjustment. We have a couple of fancier routers with variable speed, but the torque goes down with speed and you get chattering. So just run it at 30K rpms and let the bit do the work (ie don't force it). Also direction of cut is critical, no climb cutting going on here.

Whatever works...

The little 'cheapie' HF router does a great job, especially using a 1/2" trim bit. I cut my siding with a jigsaw, slightly oversize (maybe 1/8-1/4") & used the router at its normal speed to trim flush. As others posted, use eye protection & long sleeves (ask me how I know 'bout the long sleeves ).