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help with molding

Posted:
Thu Mar 03, 2005 9:22 am
by brickz
I just tried to put on the corner trim this week and it isn't working well at all. I'm using a thin guage corner molding from RV supplier with pre-drilled holes. the hatch came out OK but when I went to go around the front it was a disaster. As I started around the small radius (2') the trim just kinked and left a big bulge sticking out. I tried pounding it back in but it just doesn't look good. I tried taking a piece and cutting little V shapes to go around the curve and that looks worse. would heating it help? did a search on forum and there were some threads about annealing. my thin aluminum molding is painted (or maybe annodized) white. will heating to annealing point remove color? do you know of any vinyl equivalent out there that would work better? thanks for any ideas. Brickz

Posted:
Thu Mar 03, 2005 9:27 am
by SteveH
I had the same problem going around a small radius curve at the front/bottom of my tear and just figured not much could be done about it. I used a hammer and a body anvil and just kept working it until it doesn't look too hideous. With a small radius like that I figured that was the best that could be done.


Posted:
Thu Mar 03, 2005 11:54 am
by myjeepcherokee
I know that when I annealed my molding it helped out quite a bit, but I would guess that the temp. required to anneal the trim would most likely either discolor the trim, or burn the paint. I do know that lowes carries some vinyl trim that is very flexible, but I couldnt find it in "L" channel. If worst comes to worst they do have "U" channel that you could just cut one of the sides off making "L" channel....if that made any sense!

Posted:
Thu Mar 03, 2005 10:11 pm
by David Grason
You're stuck for sure. You either live with the dents or you burn the paint. Those are basically the 2 choices. But yes, anealing will definately and totally change the pliability of the aluminum.

Posted:
Fri Mar 04, 2005 12:26 pm
by Georgeandpat
There are good tips on annealing on this board. The best I found was to put a thin layer of candle soot on the molding first. After you "burn" off the soot with a torch it will have reached the proper temperature. Let the metal cool off naturally- don't quench it with water. Also remember to use a rubber mallet when shaping the molding. It's amazing how much beating the aluminum molding can take without getting permanently damaged. George.

Posted:
Fri Mar 04, 2005 1:50 pm
by steve wolverton
David Grason wrote:You're stuck for sure. You either live with the dents or you burn the paint.
David, couldn't you sand the aluminum after beating it into shape to smooth it out the dips/humps? I've never worked with the stuff before.
Steve