Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

anyone using galvanized steel studs for their walls? my neighbor is trying to convince me to go that route!if anyone has photos or suggestions of this i would really appreciate it.any feed back on insulation or sound issues? pros and cons needed!!! im planning my generic benroy build in a month or so
thanks

wow, seems like overkill? i guess the issue is the weight and size. a 2x4 stud seems like a lot. most use 2x2 i think. but those in the know will let you know. overall it's up to you. nothing you do is wrong. if it works great from your experiment then others may do it too someday.

good luck!

tk

seems to thick

The major CON I see is the wall will (eventually) rack. Steel wall studs are ok for standard framing (ie no movement), but you put it on a rolling chassis and your asking for trouble, since the studs aren't very thick and IMO will eventually start bending

I am in the other camp having built small buildings with them I found them light and extremely easy to assemble. There are " x" bracing available a flat strap used for wind bracing I would definately incorporate them to address the racking unless the outer skin is ridgid enough to do this by itsself. I think it would be a very interesting build. There will be areas you may want wood and I believe a 2x4 will slip inside them for added strength in areas like the galley hinge area and corners.

Bob

I also think metal stud construction with plywood skin could work, and would be lightweight, but fastening thin plywood to the studs would be the challenge. You'd probably need to use epoxy and/or body panel tape.

I think it might work if installed properly. I wouldn't use 2x4 studs, I would go with 1 5/8 studs. 1 inch foam fits inside the stud and it makes for a pretty clean set up. It's how I did my basement walls. Didn't want to attach anything to the outside walls and I didn't want to give up too much space. The 1 5/8 studs work pretty good for this. In a trailer application using a plywood skin it would be pretty solid. The weight wouldn't be that much more and they would make for a much faster build. Curving the track might be a bit of a pain, but it could be done.

BPFox wrote:I think it might work if installed properly. I wouldn't use 2x4 studs, I would go with 1 5/8 studs. 1 inch foam fits inside the stud and it makes for a pretty clean set up. It's how I did my basement walls. Didn't want to attach anything to the outside walls and I didn't want to give up too much space. The 1 5/8 studs work pretty good for this. In a trailer application using a plywood skin it would be pretty solid. The weight wouldn't be that much more and they would make for a much faster build. Curving the track might be a bit of a pain, but it could be done.

i haven't see the 1 5/8" ones ,,,,H D have them ??

COMP wrote:

BPFox wrote:I think it might work if installed properly. I wouldn't use 2x4 studs, I would go with 1 5/8 studs. 1 inch foam fits inside the stud and it makes for a pretty clean set up. It's how I did my basement walls. Didn't want to attach anything to the outside walls and I didn't want to give up too much space. The 1 5/8 studs work pretty good for this. In a trailer application using a plywood skin it would be pretty solid. The weight wouldn't be that much more and they would make for a much faster build. Curving the track might be a bit of a pain, but it could be done.

i haven't see the 1 5/8" ones ,,,,H D have them ??

To be honest, I never looked. I got mine from the drywall supply house. We use them all the time for things like building soffets. They work great for boxing in beams and posts as well.

I use wood studs simply because I use glue and an air brad nailer for construction.... also, I think the stud to roof rafter joint is stronger...

Wood glued to wood just makes more sense to me than steel to wood, at least in a down-the-road t/d trailer.