Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Posted: **Thu Jul 10, 2008 2:13 pm**

I'm using a sheet of formica for my interior skin. So instead of just going ahead and installing it. I rolled a sheet over to check to see if it was possible before spending time installing it and having it crack out on me. Just another step I take before doing. It saves the temper for better uses.

This piece is for my counter top and galley floor. I'm using white in the cabin.

Posted: **Thu Jul 10, 2008 2:46 pm**

Gage that will look great with formica inside. :applause:

Classic Finn

Posted: **Thu Jul 10, 2008 5:18 pm**

OH, hummmmmmmmm Formica is expensive here.........Is it cheap enough there so I can come to California and get out of the rain. I bet that is easy to clean :twisted:

Posted: **Thu Jul 10, 2008 6:30 pm**

Gage,

Don't know the name of it or where you would find it, but there is a product that you can apply to the back of laminates to increase its bendability. I think it heats up to make the Formica more pliable.

Best,
Tom

Posted: **Thu Jul 10, 2008 7:17 pm**

Miriam C. wrote::o OH, hummmmmmmmm Formica is expensive here.........Is it cheap enough there so I can come to California and get out of the rain. I bet that is easy to clean

Yep, no rain here but the temp was 112 yesterday and a little cooler today at 110. But like that, the humidity is low so the swamp cooler works great. Just another Summer day in the high desert of California. Think tomorrow I'm going to take a break and go surfing.

tk wrote:Gage,
Don't know the name of it or where you would find it, but there is a product that you can apply to the back of laminates to increase its bendability. I think it heats up to make the Formica more pliable.
Best,
Tom

Why would I need something like that when it already bends more than I need without using anything. But thanks anyways.

Posted: **Fri Jul 11, 2008 2:53 pm**

How would you go about attaching that to the inside just out of curiosity. I like the idea and also like seamless. Would you predrill and attach with screws and covers or glue it?

Posted: **Fri Jul 11, 2008 3:05 pm**

Tha looks like wilsonart not formica :lol:

It will roll pretty tight, but there must not be a single crack or chip in the edge or the entire sheet will snap right in half. If you are drilling holes in it the same goes, must be very smooth hole like a router or snader made it or it will crack all the way like a glass windshield. Also be carefull of the sharp edges on this stuff its wicked what happens to a Plastic laminate cut on your hands. How do i know? i Install plastic laminate for a living.

Posted: **Fri Jul 11, 2008 3:12 pm**

Wimperdink wrote:How would you go about attaching that to the inside just out of curiosity. I like the idea and also like seamless. Would you predrill and attach with screws and covers or glue it?

I plan on doing both. I'm running my cross spars at 6" centers on the front and then 8" - 10" on top. I plan on gluing and then predrilling and using small brass brads (nails). I'm going to be installing the ceiling either tonight or tomorrow morning, Once I get all my spars located and drilled. Oh, the formica is only .062 thick. The whole operation is going to be interesting. I'll let you all know how it turns out. Who knows, it might not even work, but ya got to try. :thinking:

Posted: **Fri Jul 11, 2008 3:25 pm**

Gage wrote:The whole operation is going to be interesting. I'll let you all know how it turns out. Who knows, it might not even work, but ya got to try.

I'll be watching for your response.

I wondered if glueing the spars w/ thickened epoxy and just pushing the formica against the curve forcing against both ends would hold it tight enough for the epoxy to grab and dry so that it could be a truely seamless install. But, then again, It may snap in places when the trailer flexes too. I'll be curious to see how this works.

Posted: **Fri Jul 11, 2008 4:05 pm**

Wimperdink wrote: I'll be watching for your response.

I wondered if glueing the spars w/ thickened epoxy and just pushing the formica against the curve forcing against both ends would hold it tight enough for the epoxy to grab and dry so that it could be a truely seamless install. But, then again, It may snap in places when the trailer flexes too. I'll be curious to see how this works.

If you notice, my inner side skins is cut back the thickness of the spar and ceiling skin. So on the sides the ceiling skin will kind of be sandwiched between the spars and inner side skin so it should be tight against the spars (at least on paper). Might not even use glue. :thinking:

Constrictor wrote:Tha looks like wilsonart not formica It will roll pretty tight, but there must not be a single crack or chip in the edge or the entire sheet will snap right in half. If you are drilling holes in it the same goes, must be very smooth hole like a router or snader made it or it will crack all the way like a glass windshield. Also be carefull of the sharp edges on this stuff its wicked what happens to a Plastic laminate cut on your hands. How do i know? i Install plastic laminate for a living.

Well, I'm kind of dumb when it come to things like that. So what I did was go to Lowe's and ask "Where is the Formica sheeting?" and this is what I got.

And would you believe, I also cut it with a saber saw (very carefully).

Posted: **Fri Jul 11, 2008 5:25 pm**

took me a min to catch up but I think I'm along for the ride now. So the formica goes in, then the spars go on. That will make for edges perfection. :thumbsup:

I was seeing spars in place first and formica going on after the fact.

Posted: **Fri Jul 11, 2008 6:17 pm**

Wimperdink wrote:took me a min to catch up but I think I'm along for the ride now. So the formica goes in, then the spars go on. That will make for edges perfection.

I was seeing spars in place first and formica going on after the fact.

Yep, you got it. You know, looking at that pic I posted, it looks like the profile is wavy. Trust me, it's not. :thinking:

Major setback. Went to the local Lumber Yard today to get my 1/8" birch for the roof and 1/4" birch for the exterior sides and they are closed for inventory. I guess they don't realize I have to have this thing finished next week.

I buy my materials as needed. Cheaper that way. :thinking:

Posted: **Fri Jul 11, 2008 8:39 pm**

Gage wrote:Well, I'm kind of dumb when it come to things like that. So what I did was go to Lowe's and ask "Where is the Formica sheeting?" and this is what I got.

Its not a big deal, Formica is a brand name of plastic laminate, wood trim, solid surface countertops, solid surface sinks and many many other items are Formica brand. just like wilsonart, laminart, nevemar, pionite, and so on. Formica used to be the main plastic laminate used but 10 to 1 people use Wilsonart now, but of course that could also be just in our few state area. Its kinda like going to the store and asking for Pampers brand disposable diapers, if you ask for pampers they will likely know what you are talking about but pampers brand makes all kinds of things like child car seats and other stuff.

there is not a difference in quality of the brands, but i prefer Wilsonart because our local supplier almost always has what i need in stock. I do about 250 Kitchen countertop jobs a year by myself.

My bad though, you definatly have Formica there! I love the stuff!

Posted: **Fri Jul 11, 2008 8:51 pm**

Gage wrote:
Wimperdink wrote:took me a min to catch up but I think I'm along for the ride now. So the formica goes in, then the spars go on. That will make for edges perfection.

I was seeing spars in place first and formica going on after the fact.
Yep, you got it. You know, looking at that pic I posted, it looks like the profile is wavy. Trust me, it's not.

Major setback. Went to the local Lumber Yard today to get my 1/8" birch for the roof and 1/4" birch for the exterior sides and they are closed for inventory. I guess they don't realize I have to have this thing finished next week. I buy my materials as needed. Cheaper that way.

Finished next week!!!!

That would be "finished next year" ...maybe...for me!!! :roll:

Posted: **Fri Jul 11, 2008 10:52 pm**

Constrictor wrote: there is not a difference in quality of the brands, but i prefer Wilsonart because our local supplier almost always has what i need in stock. I do about 250 Kitchen countertop jobs a year by myself.

My bad though, you definatly have Formica there! I love the stuff!

There is definitely a difference between Formica Brand and Wilsonart Brand plam. Formica is much more brittle and doesn't bend as easy. I make radius reception desks with the stuff.

Gage, I used Wilsonart cabinet liner (thinner stuff) for the top and bottom of my floor and it's makes for a clean build. There was a thread where Grant Whipp said a tear needs to breathe & he wouldn't recommend using plam on the interior but covering the floor was okay. Do you think :thinking:

putting plam on your ceiling will cause it to sweat and drip on the mattress? Nailing plam is going to be very difficult and you may have some cracking during the process.

Danny

Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Bend-ability - Moving right along.

Bend-ability - Moving right along.