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How to butyl tape the edge trim (side to roof)?

PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 11:20 am
by calumet
I am getting ready to install the 26 gage metal roof and am using 1x¾ edge trim ( the kind with the vinyl insert that covers the screws) to attach to ½” ply walls. How much and where should I put the butyl tape? On both sides of the angle or only on top where the screws are going? Will the tape seal the hole when I screw through it?
The wall leg of the angle trim is bent slightly inward. Is this to accommodate the adhesive at the top? Should I try to pull it in enough when installing that it will be straight.

Re: How to butyl tape the edge trim (side to roof)?

PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 3:26 pm
by Creamcracker
calumet wrote:I am getting ready to install the 26 gage metal roof and am using 1x¾ edge trim ( the kind with the vinyl insert that covers the screws) to attach to ½” ply walls. How much and where should I put the butyl tape? On both sides of the angle or only on top where the screws are going? Will the tape seal the hole when I screw through it?
The wall leg of the angle trim is bent slightly inward. Is this to accommodate the adhesive at the top? Should I try to pull it in enough when installing that it will be straight.


I'm waiting on a response to this also....anyone out there with some input?
Thanks Philip

PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 4:25 pm
by DBizer
I used the butyl tape on the top only, I applied a bead of polyurethane caulk on the side (inside edge of the insert molding). I also caulked the top of the screw heads and then installed the vinyl inserts. If I had it to do over again I would use polyurethane caulk everywhere. Just my opinion.

David

PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 7:29 pm
by len19070
1" butyl/putty tape is made to go directly into and on the one side of this style molding.

Image

The stuff will squeeze through and will be oozing out the flat side for a while. What would normally squeeze out the other side will flow around the 90 degree edge.

The tape will seal the screws going into the wood.

I just spray the screw heads with some clear coat.

Take a test piece, with the tape and screw it to a 2X4. Then remove it..you'll see exactly what it does.

Happy Trails

Len

PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 9:24 pm
by doug hodder
A single edged razor blade cleans up the "squish out" pretty well with the butyl tape, slice it along the flange and then ball up the squish out. Another option is 3m 5200 sealant, available in small tubes as well as caulking gun sized containers, made for marine uses and it's submersable. Clean it up right now, as you can't do it after it's cured, takes about 5 days to fully cure. Doug