Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Do the walls HAVE to be 3/4" plywood? In my feeble mind I'm think thats' without any framing/studs. I'm thinking that if I frame out with 2x2s' that a thinner wood can be used, like 1/4" or so. I certainly don't want to skimp on quality, but I would like to cut down the weight!

Well, on my weekender, which you can see here...
http://www.mikenchell.com/Weekender_Photo_Album/

I used 1 by's for the stick framing and I used 5mm luan for the skin. Of course if I were doing it again, I'd use 1/8" birch for the skin. (I've had some really bad experiences with the luan.)

Mike...

If you use 1/8" be really careful that you are getting real plywood and not a panel. The panels being passed of as birch plywood here look like they have 3 boards across the length. Some bad stuff.

Gotcha! I'll have to think about using the REAL birch ply and the 1 bys'.... I was worried about the weight though I am driving a Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo its not the weight for the vehicle I'm concerned about, its the weight on the trailer. Also less expensive using thinner skin panels as well - if you mess up a panel it doesn't break the bank to go get another one...

Mike, I read through your Weekender build, what kind of problems did you have with the Luan? - John -

I did 1/2 outer wall, framed out with 1x2 with 3/4" foam inside and 1/4" for the inside. Sure, its not lighter than solid 3/4", but alot more ridgid and insulated. If weight was an issue, I would not have a problem with 1/4" on the outside and 1/8" on the inside.

Johno wrote:Mike, I read through your Weekender build, what kind of problems did you have with the Luan? - John -

The luan on the weekender was okay... but the build I started last summer, I used luan again, only this time because it was so hot outside, it all curled up like a wet leaf.

I ended up pitching the project and starting over.

Mike...

Another way to do the walls that you might think about is using 3/4 ply for the framing, thus removing all the extra ply and replacing it with insulation. then put 1/8 ply on the inside and outside. That way, your headers for the whole wall will be straight and well attached the the framing ,not extra glue, or screws , but you would have straight walls.

Have fun

John

PS, I did it the way you are thinking with 1 by 2 for the studs, I wouldn't do it that way again, My walls aren't as straight as they should be

Do it the way you feel best about,

jdarkoregon wrote:Another way to do the walls that you might think about is using 3/4 ply for the framing, thus removing all the extra ply and replacing it with insulation. then put 1/8 ply on the inside and outside. That way, your headers for the whole wall will be straight and well attached the the framing ,not extra glue, or screws , but you would have straight walls.

Have fun

John

PS, I did it the way you are thinking with 1 by 2 for the studs, I wouldn't do it that way again, My walls aren't as straight as they should be

Do it the way you feel best about,

I like that idea! I am seriously looking at some 1/8" (4mm) Okoume marine plywood for the exterior. At $122/sheet it is at the upper end of what I want to spend on the exterior walls (but it is 5x10, so I can do it with no seams). 1/4" Okoume was more than $230/sheet. I was worried about what the walls would look like with 1x2 or some other framing... but 3/4 ply should make them nice and straight! Thanks for the tip!

McBrew wrote: I was worried about what the walls would look like with 1x2 or some other framing

I used 1x4 and 1x3 for my framing and it came out pretty darn straight.

I did 3/4" for the floor and 1/4" for the outer walls. 1x2's for framing.

My tear has no wall framing or insulation. I used 1/2" Baltic birch ply for the sides, then overlayed the insides with 5/16" thick knotty pine paneling running horizontally. I used liquid nails and small brads to attach the paneling. The paneling helped stiffen the seam between the two sheets of plywood, and made a nice log cabin look inside. It all works!
Sam