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Aluminum door trim

PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 8:26 am
by calumet
Will 1/16 x ½ aluminum channel and angle make the door curve of the Generic Benroy without annealing? I am using offset inside jambs so buckling will interfere with the seal.

PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 1:51 pm
by shoeman
Having just trimmed my Benroy door frames last week with the soft stuff from George at Teardrop Fix-It shop I'd guess the answer is no. I've tried bending some standard issue big-box aluminum and it just does not work well at all. Straight "bar stock" pieces are pretty easy, but any angle piece is VERY difficult. I have not annealed any to try, as I was in a hurry to get that stuff ready, but it sounds like a necessary thing to do on store bought pieces.

PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 6:30 pm
by mikeschn
What Shoeman says... you need to get the dead soft stuff from Grant or George.

I've done the annealing part, but it still buckled a little bit.

Mike...

P.S. Shoeman, if you are two thirds done, you'd better get some newer photos in your album! ;) :D

PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 8:28 am
by shoeman
I know, I know. I've been out in the garage at 6:30AM every morning for an hour before work and then out there until 10:00 or 11:00 every night to get this thing done for SUNDAY! :?
I have not dared to even stop and take pictures this last week and a half. I'm starting to see trim and screws and tools in my sleep. The devil is in the details I'll tell ya! Building the hatch frame may only take 2 hours and skinning another hour, but sweating over the trim for example may take another three hours all by itself. If I had to anneal each piece I'd throw my hands up in frustration and walk away for a month to let my mind unwind.


Geoff

PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 5:40 pm
by calumet
Thanks guys.
That was the information I was looking for.
What is the alternative to ordering specialty aluminum trim?
I built wooden inside offset jambs for the door to seal against but I still have a raw edge on both the door and opening. Not too pretty or element proof. It would be nice to cover both the edge and the face around the edge.

PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 8:15 pm
by Dean_A
calumet wrote:Thanks guys.
That was the information I was looking for.
What is the alternative to ordering specialty aluminum trim?
I built wooden inside offset jambs for the door to seal against but I still have a raw edge on both the door and opening. Not too pretty or element proof. It would be nice to cover both the edge and the face around the edge.

I used aluminum nosing around all my doors and door openings with good results. I got some from Grant, some from SoCal and some from the local hardware store. It bends easy and looks great.

PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 12:14 am
by looped
mikeschn wrote:What Shoeman says... you need to get the dead soft stuff from Grant or George.

I've done the annealing part, but it still buckled a little bit.

Mike...

P.S. Shoeman, if you are two thirds done, you'd better get some newer photos in your album! ;) :D


what number is the deadsoft? 6053? 7071?

PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 12:24 am
by Dean_A
looped wrote:
mikeschn wrote:What Shoeman says... you need to get the dead soft stuff from Grant or George.

I've done the annealing part, but it still buckled a little bit.

Mike...

P.S. Shoeman, if you are two thirds done, you'd better get some newer photos in your album! ;) :D


what number is the deadsoft? 6053? 7071?


I've looked into this, and best I can tell, it has nothing to do with the alloy (number), but just whether it has been annealed or not. Hopefuily we have an expert here who can give us more info.

PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 4:09 am
by Spadinator
You will have the alloy number ie. 2024, 6061 and then the temper number - T6 for example. Annealed aluminum will have a "T" number of zero.

When I was in the Air Force I was a sheet metal guy and we used the annealed stuff all the time for fabricating parts for the Phantom when one would come in damaged from a bird strike or flight line accident. When we were done with the part it would go out to tempering to be finished.

PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 8:54 am
by calumet
Just curious, what’s a flight line accident?

PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 2:43 pm
by Spadinator
Oh when you tow a jet into another jet.......back up the power cart into the aircraft.......not watch where you are driving a fork lift........and other misc oopses.

Re: Aluminum door trim

PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 1:02 pm
by backstrap bandit
Why doesn't anyone sell annealed aluminum angle seems to be a demand for it

Re: Aluminum door trim

PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 6:26 pm
by grant whipp
backstrap bandit wrote:Why doesn't anyone sell annealed aluminum angle seems to be a demand for it


There are already plenty of bendable aluminum moldings available through the RV industry that are much better suited (and much more attractive) than common aluminum angle ... though not all of them are listed on my website, I have (or can get) most of them: http://www.teardrops.net/teardroptrailerparts.html

CHEERS!

Re: Aluminum door trim

PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 9:21 pm
by backstrap bandit
I know there are a lot of bendable moldings however I know the benroy plans call for 2 inch angle I would really like to find some any ideas would be appreciated

Re: Aluminum door trim

PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 9:48 pm
by grant whipp
backstrap bandit wrote:I know there are a lot of bendable moldings however I know the benroy plans call for 2 inch angle I would really like to find some any ideas would be appreciated


Are you talking about the Generic Benroy plans? Where are the plans telling you need 2" aluminum angle? I'm really curious as to why? ... makes no sense to me ... :thinking:

CHEERS!