Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I am trying to build some overhead cabinets that do not run wall to wall - one corner of them is just sort of hanging there overhead. I'm really worried about supporting the weight.

Are there any great resources for building cabinets in a camper? How do I make these things strong enough to stay overhead? I am trying to build them with 2x2 frame work, and 3/8" ply for the facing. Am I using the wrong materials?

Granted, I tend to overbuild everything, so I may just be paranoid that I can't make them as strong as I'd like to... (picture Yogi and Boo Boo bear sleeping in the cupboard).

PS - as I have posted before - this is a living space in the front of a gooseneck horse trailer. I really appreciate the help - this forum has been incredibly helpful & inspiring for this project.

Croc is the hanging cabinet supported on top and from the back or just the top? Support from two faces should do you fine. Since I over build I think that is fine. Wouldn't put real heavy stuff in it though.

The bubble is off again.

Take a good look at your kitchen cabinets in your house. You really do not have to overbuild them especially if you can fasten them to the ceiling in your trailer.

Thanks - that already helps. I was trying to figure out if I could just attach them on the back and then give them some side support, but it sounds like I really need to figure out how to attach to the ceiling.

The ceiling is curved, and I'm not sure how to attach a great support up there that the cabinets can screw into. (photo below)

Is there a slick way to make a template of a large curved surface that you need to match? All I can think to do is slog through it with cardboard.

Also, should I be trying to build these in place? Or at some point can I bring them into the garage to glue/clamp them together?

If your sidewalls are strong enough, you should just be able to attach them there, but additional attachment to the ceiling would help. I think that a cardboard template would be about the easiest way to get the curveture of the roof. Once you have that and know the demensions that you need, you should be able to build them in your garage and then install them. You could just use long bolts to attach them to the ceiling and then put a filler up to hide the part that was still open due to the curve in the ceiling. Hope that makes sense.

...most upper kitchen cabinets just hang there with no other support...if you build them as stated with 3/8th ply over a 2x2 frame(specifically for the side walls and across the back) you can attack them(thru the 2x2's) directly to the side wall provided the side wall is "beefy" enough to and hold 'em once attached...
madjack

CrocTears wrote:

Is there a slick way to make a template of a large curved surface that you need to match? All I can think to do is slog through it with cardboard.

a smooth curve is easy to get real close. Hold a 1x6 1x8 or 1x10 depending how sharp the curve against the ceiling as near even as you can. (If you level the trailer you can level the board) I use a childs wooden abc block with a small notch sawn in for my pencil. Now drag the wood block across the ceiling and with pencil inserted in the underside notch simply trace a cut line onto the 1x. If curve is sharper you may need a deeper block.

It appears your ceiling is strapped if so staple a strip of 1/8 or 1/4 paneling or plywood to the strapping then trace as above.

rip the board to desired depth stain and use as a face overlay or rip to just fill the viod above the cabinet.

Attaching to the ceiling makes a lot of sense, even if I was hoping to get out of doing the work to figure it out. These cabinet will likely travel across miles of washboarded New Mexico and Colorado dirt roads, that seems like a lot of stress.

Bobhenry,

I'm a slow learner, so let me ask... When you say

Hold a 1x6 1x8 or 1x10 depending how sharp the curve against the ceiling as near even as you can. (If you level the trailer you can level the board) I use a childs wooden abc block with a small notch sawn in for my pencil. Now drag the wood block across the ceiling and with pencil inserted in the underside notch simply trace.

What are you tracing it onto? Wouldn't I have to cut something like cardboard approximately to the curve first? Probably the dumbest question ever, but I can't quite picture what you are saying.

If you put a piece of cardboard up against the wall and use one of these (bow compass) you can trace the exact (almost) shape of the ceiling.

Most kitchen cabinets are attached at the back only. I would use more than one screw for each board and use a thicker board through the back. Glue some extra there.

Some shelf bracket will help if you still feel the need.

you are scribing direct from the ceiling onto the 1x you will be cutting to fit. No cardboard to fuss with.

(edited post above for clarification)

Whack me with a cast iron pan, I still don't get it.

Ok, if the red is the ceiling curve and I need to match it between the green points, how can I hold something up there and just trace it to get the curve? I don't see how a square cut anything would physically fit up there to trace onto??



I thought I'd have to build a front template like this, then cut.

oh my ......

I was seeing a nice gentle side to side curve about a 12 ' radius sorry for the confusion..

Yep ! get out the cardboard to get close !

Maybe this will help.

Toypusher! That's genius! I'd kiss 'ya!