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Is there a product at Lowes that can waterproof a teardrop

PostPosted: Sat Nov 15, 2008 5:13 pm
by zlamb0002
I need something local that will waterproof my teardrop. After it is waterproofed I will prime and paint it.

PostPosted: Sat Nov 15, 2008 5:29 pm
by tinksdad
I went through the same dilemma. Others will have different opinions; but in the end I used a mixture of 3 parts mineral spirits to 1 part spar urethane and applied three coats. Time will tell if it's successful; but I figured if the old time boat builders (ChrisCraft in particular) used a similar formula to seal wooden boats, it would work on the tear. I also applied two coats of primer over that and two coats of enamel to finish.

Ask me again in the spring after it sits outside all winter, and I may have a different opinion.

PostPosted: Sat Nov 15, 2008 6:03 pm
by PaulC
Down here I use this
http://www.bondall.com/_webapp_5411/ALL_PURPOSE_TIMBER_SEALER

Maybe there is a similar product available from your local stores.


:thumbsup:

PostPosted: Sat Nov 15, 2008 6:10 pm
by 48Rob
Hi,

It can be helpful to use a waterproofing agent to prolong the life span of wood that may get wet, but ultimately, the wood must be completely sealed, or encased to prevent moisture from getting in.

Using a thinned mixture of spar is good as it will help the sealer soak futher into the wood than it will when applied out of the can onto the surface.

Oil based paint can be thinned the same way, and offer roughly the same protection as a spar varnish.
Spar varnish is a "soft" finish, meant to be able to retain its bond to wood that "moves" with light expansion and contraction.
Oil based paint is less able to "move" like spar, but does pretty well on plywood.

Oil based paint, or latex (water based) paint can be used to finish off the trailer.
I prefer oil, as it can be thinned precisely, and gives a good bond to itself.
It negates the need for primer, which while a good thing, does not in itself "soak into" the wood.
It stays on the surface, and in the event of a scratch or other minor damage, exposes the underlying wood to moisture.
When the first couple of coats are thinned, and soak in, it can handle more damage before allowing moisture in.
It also offers a harder, more durable surface than latex.

Latex is very difficult to thin to the point it will soak into the wood enough to give much protection.
However, latex paint can be used to seal the trailer.
Latex is also a soft finish, suitable for wood that moves a bit (it is somewhat stretchy).
Just have to be sure you seal EVERY exposed bit of wood.
Same goes for oil based paint.
If the wood is not completely sealed, all of it, moisture will get in.

There may be other products suitable for sealing your trailer at Lowes, but I'm not aware of any other than spar varnish, which is on the same level as oil based paint, that would work well with a finished surface.
There are some water sealers, such as thompsons, etc, but they don't do enough good to be worth the trouble, and many contain wax and silicone which work against getting good adhesion with your paint.

The best way to protect your wood is to do a good job painting it, then maintain that finish (touch up any rock chips or other damage as soon as possible).

Rob

PostPosted: Sat Nov 15, 2008 9:01 pm
by Jiminsav
I used Thomsons water seal on the bottom of my trailer...seems to work pretty well.

PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 6:40 am
by GPW
Tinksdad, we've used that for years with great results...even waterproofing cardboard... a couple coats and it's sealed for good... :thumbsup:

PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 10:43 am
by john
I used aluminum valley flashing rolls from Lowes on the sides of my tear.

I glued the aluminum to the sides of my tear with Henry's outdoor carpet glue with mixed results. One side stayed glued very well while the other has come loose. It was the side I had to pull off due to falling tree trash as I glued the aluminum on. I have since added screws to hold the aluminum on the sides.

If you choose a the aluminum flashing I would suggest using screws to hold it on the sides.

I used a similar aluminum for the roof but it was from a 24" wide roll and allowed a 6" over lap for sealing. It was not from Lowes. I sealed the overlap with windshield glue. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 10:52 am
by Jst83
I just used a good oil based primer and latex paint, if it's good enough for a house.This was suggested by my best friend that runs a Sherwin Williams and has taken care of my paint needs for years. I've got 2 summers and 2,500+ miles with no problems.

PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 4:49 pm
by dmckruit
I tend to shy away from Thompsons Water-Seal as it is nothing but dissolved paraffin wax in mineral spirits with a few metal driers added. At most you will get 6 months protection in the sunlight.

PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 2:50 am
by zlamb0002
Has any one tried Cabot Timber Oil or Olympic Wood Protector Waterproofing Sealant.

Cabot
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=p ... lpage=none

Olympic
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=p ... lpage=none