Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

This is driving me batty (short trip), so I have to ask:

- I've seen that some people glue and screw their deck to the chassis but I'm thinking the glue could lift the paint from the metal frame, allowing the metal to rust.

- I've been told to use caulk between the chassis and the deck and I said I would do that; but, I've seen caulk come loose, allowing water to linger underneath and invite rust and rot. So, I'm wondering about that.

- My thinking is that maybe it's better to just bolt the deck to the frame and let things air dry when they get wet; so, that's what I've done so far. I do have three coats of CPES on the entire underside of the deck, which supposedly makes it waterproof. But, I'm still concerned that by not gluing or caulking or both, I may be wrong and end up ruining my trailer.

So, what should be done? Glue, Caulk, Both, or Neither?

Thanks for your upcoming advice!

Sharon, we build with a single sheet floor and sides...we build the entire separate from the frame and when ready, we simply screw the TD to the frame with self=tapping trailer deck screws...what I am saying is no adhesive or caulk...just a straight mechanical attachment...having said that, if you want, I see no problems with adhesive/caulk(along with bolts/screws) usage as long as you don't create water traps........
madjack

..."as long as you don't create water traps" is exactly what I was worried about. Thanks for your advice, MJ.

Sharon-

I used "truck bed foam tape" you know the stuff you buy for on your pickup truck bed rails to seal the truck top cap.

Cheers,

Coop

Thanks, Coop. That's an option I hadn't thought of.

My suggestion would be bolts only - no glue or caulk. When mine was rear ended last Spring, the damage was such that the body of the tear was ok, but the Harbor Freight trailer was crunched and had to be replaced (see album).

Just having to deal with unbolting made it much easier to remove and replace the trailer underneath.

I do suggest securing the platform bolt heads with epoxy or similar so they don't turn if you ever have to remove the nuts.

I coated the bottom of my t/d with roofing tar from h/d. When I set it onto the frame a month later, it was still pliable enough to squeeze down, and I now have a permanent seal between t/d and frame.

I used 5, 5/16" bolts on each side to attach t/d to frame.