Zero Clearance Insert for Table Saw

[Geron]

If you plan to cut your aluminium trim (angle) on a table saw you definitely need a zero clearance insert (plate.) Here are two you can fabricate yourself.

http://absolutelyfreeplans.com/WORKSHOP ... ojects.htm

Scroll all the way to the bottom.

Believe me -- If you cut 3/4 aluminium on your saw you need the insert.


Geron

[TomS]

If you plan to cut your aluminium trim (angle) on a table saw you definitely need a zero clearance insert (plate.) Here are two you can fabricate yourself.

http://absolutelyfreeplans.com/WORKSHOP ... ojects.htm

Scroll all the way to the bottom.

Believe me -- If you cut 3/4 aluminium on your saw you need the insert.


Geron

This is really great information for us woodworking novices. Thanks for sharing it.

I wish I saw it 3 weeks ago. I had a couple of pieces kick back quite violently while cutting the tracks for my sliding doors. Fortunately, I had the good sense to stand well to the side when making these cuts. The 3/4 stock I was cutting had a tendency to dip into the wide opening of the dado insert as I neared the end of my cuts. I got around the problem by running longer pieces and having a helper on the outfeed side exert gentle downward pressure to help keep the tail from dipping into that opening.

This would have been a much been a much SAFER soloution. And, it's so damn simple. Thanks again.

[toypusher]

Yah, the insert on my ShopSmith has a screw in each end. I just make a 1/4" plywood piece to fit in the space and screwed it in, then raised the running blade to the hight that I needed. I have 4 or 5 of these for different width blades and dados. (actually on a shopsmith you lower the table and not raise the balde). They work great and are alot safer than leaving a gap around the blade.

[Denny Unfried]

I also made some 1/4" sole plates for the bottom of my Skil-Saw which works well when used with a straight edge on plywood.

Denny

[doug hodder]

Make sure to use a sharp carbide blade, also I raise the blade up quite a bit. This changes the angle of attack of the blade and is less likely to kick back, but instead down onto the saw deck. Don't crowd it, wear a face shield. Clamp the material to your slide mechanism. Especially on angles. Once it hangs and you are trying to hold it by hand you'll remember. I also use gloves. I've cut lots of 1/8" aluminum sheets using a guide and a circular saw also. Again, use a carbide blade, and in thick material, make sure you use some sort of lubricant, ideally a cutting spray fluid, WD 40 will do in a pinch, and if you want to hear in the future, some sort of hearing protection. I've ripped 10'sheets of 1/8" aluminum this way. It takes a good saw however, as an underpowered one with a bad arbor will cause you fits. Experiment. PS I have a bunch of throat plates for the table saw. I made them out of 1/4" paneling. Put one in and crank the blade up through it to the height you want. Excessive gap at the blade can make things interesting really fast!!! Doug Hodder

[toypusher]

Another reason for the zero clearance is if you have a dust collection system, it keeps those little pieces of wood or what ever you are cutting from being sucked into the system and possibly ruining the impeller. This of course only applies if you have that type of system, like I do. It is basically a giant vacuum. Someday, I would like to get the cyclone type and not have the problem with everything going through the impeller, but in the meantime, I need to keep the nasties out of the system.

[DestinDave]

I installed aluminum doorsills one winter for a builder and anytime one needed trimmed we used a chop-saw but the blade was installed backwards. Cutting was slower but no chance of grabbing the metal and kicking back. Don't remember what type blade, TPI, or toothset - has anyone else used this method?

[Denny Unfried]

Another reason for the zero clearance is if you have a dust collection system, it keeps those little pieces of wood or what ever you are cutting from being sucked into the system and possibly ruining the impeller. This of course only applies if you have that type of system, like I do. It is basically a giant vacuum. Someday, I would like to get the cyclone type and not have the problem with everything going through the impeller, but in the meantime, I need to keep the nasties out of the system.

That's an important point. I used one of my older routers on the aluminum and heard chips of metal going through the motor. I quickly made a cardboard deflector which was crude but it did the job.

Denny

[purplepickup]

I installed aluminum doorsills one winter for a builder and anytime one needed trimmed we used a chop-saw but the blade was installed backwards. Cutting was slower but no chance of grabbing the metal and kicking back. Don't remember what type blade, TPI, or toothset - has anyone else used this method?

I've used blades installed backwards on a circular saw to cut steel polebarn siding. I use a 44 tooth 7 1/2" (3TPI) blade and it works good. The more TPI the better I think. You're right, it doesn't grab or tear. It kind of burns and cuts it's way thru. It might be worth a try on aluminum.