Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

OK, you've convinced me that clearcoat is the best topper for epoxy, but there are a lot of choices. First, there's acrylic and urethane. Then there's one part and two part. Then there's a dozen brands of each.

What works best? What is easiest to apply? What do I need to do to prep the epoxy?

Thanks in advance, and have a great Thanksgiving!

I use the Transtar Euroclear. It's a urethane based catalyzed product. When you're all done smoothing out the epoxy, just finish up with something like 320, wipe it all down with a degreaser, tack cloth it, and spray. Make sure you have every spot scuffed. It won't want to stick if it doesn't have some tooth to attach to. There are lots of similar products available. Find out what the local auto paint suppler has, cause he'll know about it and can help you if you need trouble shooting. Doug

wannabefree wrote:OK, you've convinced me that clearcoat is the best topper for epoxy, but there are a lot of choices. First, there's acrylic and urethane. Then there's one part and two part. Then there's a dozen brands of each.

What works best? What is easiest to apply? What do I need to do to prep the epoxy?

Thanks in advance, and have a great Thanksgiving!

Well...I'm not all that convinced that clearcoat is the best. There are lot's spar varnishes out there that will protect epoxy as well. Couple of thoughts...

A good quality spar varnish or poly will do an excellent job, but it will need some maintenance...a bit of sanding and recoat ever so often..

Clear has a really nice finish...a little bit of wax should keep it good!

I've elected to go clearcoat for a couple of reasons...ease of maintenance and (more importantly) just to learn how to spray coat fine finishes. It's been an expensive lesson so far, but I am not dissapointed with the results...Just be prepared for the cost if you have never done a clear coat shot!!!!
BTW...I've learned alot and think the experience is worth it!!!!

Dave,

Your woodwork is looking very nice!

Rob

When Steve Fredrick did the Lil Diner, he covered it with Minwax Spar Urethane.

I only had it for a couple years, but it looked good while I had it.

Mike...

Thanks, folks.

I've shot acrylic base on a car before and it was not the easiest thing to get right. Fact is, I didn't get it right but it looked better than bondo and primer. I opted to skip the clear at the time.
So on the difficulty scale, is clearcoat any harder than doing the base coat was on that old Chevy? Not that I indend a base coat on this tear -- it's a woodie through and through. I shoot precat lacquer on cabinets all the time. How's that compare on the difficulty meter?

BTW
That lil'diner is a mighty fine looking tear!!

I'll learn some manners soon enough.

What you have to remember is that what you are seeing is actually through the clear epoxy to the wood. Real deep finish appearance. I use light reflection to check for a good gloss on the urethane.

I've mentioned it before....it's not an inexpensive way to go and I wouldn't recommend it to anyone that didn't have a burning desire to learn how to do it, or currently knows how. If you had problems shooting acrylic base before, this won't be any easier, in fact harder since it's not a solid color you are putting on. If you know how to spray that's a big part of the battle, the other part is keeping a good wet edge on a larger project. Just my opinion. Doug

Aw, now you've got me thinking spar varnish. I hate varnish. It takes too long to dry and smells too "earthy." Well, I've got time to think about it.

New build pics posted in my album if you care to look.