Sliding compound miter saw or standard chop saw?

[Seattle G60]

Hey all,

I am getting ready to add another power tool to my work shop and was wondering if anyone had an opinion about which one is more usefull.

Compound slide or chop saw?

thanks!

[David Grason]

I've used both for many years. I've had a Makita Chop and a DeWalt slider. Both are GREAT!

However, for 95% of all the wood you have to cross cut, the standard Chop saw is just fine. The sliders are more for large base boards in the fancier houses and for cutting compound miters on big peices of crown mold. When cutting crown on a small chop saw, you have to hold the peice of crown kinda weird to make it work right. So crown mold really makes the difference.

So you putting crown in the teardrop?

[David Grason]

I got to thinking that folks might wonder what I meant when I said you need to hold crown at a "weird" angle to cut it on a chop saw. So I thought I'd see if I could make sense.

A standard miter saw with a 10" blade that does NOT slide will cut up to about 6" if the stock is laid flat on the table. If it doesn't cut all the way through, you can tilt the stock up just a little at the front to complete the cut. If you have any wood that is over that width, the slider really shines. But under that width, the chop saw is IMHO handier. But this really comes down to preference.

Anywho, here's the crown mold "weird" thing. Standard crown mold is usually ranging from 3½" to 4" wide depending on who milled it. It requires a compound miter which the chop will NOT do unless you use this technique. Turn the stock up side down and lean it at a 45º angle against the guide fence. Then set your miter to 45º as well and you'll get the correct cut if you did it right. This goes for inside corners as well as outside corners but with an inside corner, you'll just need to cope it.

I hope that makes sense. whew, I did that stuff for many years during the 80s and they just started introducing the sliders when I was getting out of it. Then I later bought the DeWalt slider and trimmed some more houses along about 1997-98. Then I got out again. I love the work, but I hate the dishonest builders, price cutting competition and the saturation of undocumented latino labor.

[Larwyn]

For me the 12 inch compound miter saw is a good choice. You can cut wider stock with the sliding saw and if you are willing to spend the time keeping aligned just as accurately.

The 12 inch miter saw will cut plenty wide for me and has fewer moving parts. Fewer moving parts makes for fewer parts to move out of adjustment......

They do both require occasional alignment and either will do a great job. My 10 year old 12" DeWalt is still cutting square so I am lucky to not have to be making that decision right now...

[asianflava]

I have just a plain old 10" miter saw. Not compound or slide. I regret not getting at least a compound but funds were limited at the time. I would like to upgrade to a 12" sliding but there is the funds problem again. A 12" compound would be a good compromise though. I would like to be able to cut a 4X4 in one swipe. The ones that are belt driven look good; the motor will not interfere with clamps or large stock.

Don't get me wrong; the 10in saw has served me well. The only reason I regret not getting the compound saw is when I did crown molding project. After that I said that it would take a lot of persuasion for me to do that again. For building the teardrop, the only shortcoming is when I had to cut some wider boards at an angle. It's nothing that can't be overcome, but it annoyed me after awhile. I would loose my rhythm while building. I'm past that point in the build so it doesn't bother me now at least until I run into it again.

[Larwyn]

I have just a plain old 10" miter saw. Not compound or slide. I regret not getting at least a compound but funds were limited at the time. I would like to upgrade to a 12" sliding but there is the funds problem again. A 12" compound would be a good compromise though. I would like to be able to cut a 4X4 in one swipe. The ones that are belt driven look good; the motor will not interfere with clamps or large stock.

Don't get me wrong; the 10in saw has served me well. The only reason I regret not getting the compound saw is when I did crown molding project. After that I said that it would take a lot of persuasion for me to do that again. For building the teardrop, the only shortcoming is when I had to cut some wider boards at an angle. It's nothing that can't be overcome, but it annoyed me after awhile. I would loose my rhythm while building. I'm past that point in the build so it doesn't bother me now at least until I run into it again.

Asianflava

My 12 inch compound DeWalt is direct drive non sliding. I have mitered (not compound miter) 4 x 6's on a decking project and have made small picture frames all on the same saw. I have been really happy with this saw and it keeps it's alignment better than any power tool I have ever owned.

I do not recomend it but I have crosscut 1 x 12 on the same saw. In order to do so you have to cheat a bit and it is probably not safe but it works. I will not be the one to tell you how, dont want to be responsiable for any injuries. If you need to cut lots of 1x12 go for the sliding saw it is safer. Of course to miter anything over 6 inches you would have to go to the sliding saw or a radial arm saw.

For my uses over several years I have never wished I had gotten the more finicky sliding saw.

[Geron]

Compound miter either 10 or 12" will handle 99.99% of the average homeowners needs. Built my own house and use a Delta 10"Compound Miter.

There were times with the larger framing that I coveted either a radial arm saw or sliding Miter. I survived without it. I wouldn't try w/o the compound miter. It saw a lot of use (pun intended)

Geron

[Nitetimes]

I bought a 10" compound miter over 5 yrs ago and I've been happy with it ever since.I would like to have gone for the 12" but it was way out of my price range then and I really don't think it would have made much difference for what I have done with it. I figure if I can't cut it on there that's what I have my 7 1/4" radial handsaw for.
I have a Craftsman and it has served me well, building a couple of garages, remodeling my house and garage. It doesn't get much of a break and it don't seem to mind.
So unless you really feel the need to spend the big bucks on the slider just get a decent compound and you'll be happy with it.

[John Foote]

The slider is a substanially larger, heavier, more exacting and more expensive tool. I figure a 10" CMS will do 95% of what a 10" SCMS will do, at least in my general chopping stuff to length realm. For that other 5%? Well, that's why God gave me all these chins to scratch. I spent the money I saved on a Bosch TracRack Mitersaw stand. It adds more practical utility to the tool than any extra cutting capacity would.

[asianflava]

Is it me or have radial arm saws fallen out of favor? Seems like that was the tool to have about 10years ago. Now the only place I've seen one was Sears.

[David Grason]

I think between table saws and miter saws, the radial arm saw is going the way of the dodo bird. Personally, I think it's sad because they're a very useful and handy tool. But you DO have to be a little careful. I've always been respectful of that tendency for the sawblade to want to jerk toward you when making cross cuts.

In a way though, this lack of popularity for the radial arm saw means that used ones can be grabbed up for cheap. It's a good time to shop ebay, the pawn shops, yard sales and the local papers.

[Larwyn]

Is it me or have radial arm saws fallen out of favor? Seems like that was the tool to have about 10years ago. Now the only place I've seen one was Sears.

It is my opinion that the miter saw does most of what a radial arm saw does well. It is really difficult to rip anything safely on a radial saw, they are great for cross cutting and miters (same as a miter saw). The only reason to have a radial arm saw anymore is if you need to cut angles on really wide stock. Otherwise a miter saw is smaller easier to keep adjusted and just as effective. Both need to be paired up with a table saw for ripping.

[Seattle G60]

wow..opinions vary widey...glad I aksed!

Sounds like to me if you are cutting a larger complex miter a sliding compound saw would be best.

But in reality if I am going to have to make those types of cuts I should employ a carpenter to really "finish" the work.

I am not going to fool myself and spend $500+ on a compond slider if I have no clue on how to use the thing or ambition to be a finish carpenter.

I think a good compound miter sans slider is the way to go...I can cut frames, 2x4s, trim, and molding just fine.

Chop 90 degrees, chop 45 derees, drill glue, clamp...that is all I will probably use it for anyway and I'll save $200 to boot!

Thanks again!
Jay (teardrop newbie)

[Denny Unfried]

My compound mitre has been a terrific tool until this month when I installed a laminated hardwood floor and the sections were 7-½" wide. Of course a sliding mitre it would have reached. So each piece had to go to the shop for trip through the table saw.

As for radial saws they still do things which a mitre can't for instance they're the perfect tool for doing raised panels for doors et cetra without the expense of a molding machine.

Just my ¼¢ worth

Denny

[JunkMan]

I have had a Radial Arm saw for about 20 years, and although I like it, my sons compound miter saw is a lot handier. The radial arm saw takes up a lot of room, and can't be moved from site to site easily. The compound miter can move with you as you work around on a job. Since I have it, I wouldn't get rid of it, but if I were starting over, I would get a compound miter instead.

My sons saw has a laser guide, which I really like, makes it easier to get an accurate cut.