Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Looking for suggestions from those with more experience...we have a 40's teardrop that has all metal framing...there is no wood paneling or insulation inside. The elderly folks that we bought it from said it never had it...i think that they may be right. The interior door handle was welded on. The only wood inside is a closet area at the front of the teardrop. Any suggestions how to add insulation and birch paneling inside? Has anyone had to deal with this situation before? The whole trailer is riveted and solid....other than some water damage in the lower rear on one side. We appreciate the forum and any expertise that anyone can offer! I've posted an album of photos of the interior....Thank you! Margaret and Steve - Northern CA


http://www.freewebs.com/vintagetrailergal/apps/photos/

I would be tempted to thin down some wood strips so that they fitted into the channel sections as grounds for pinning the panelling to. You might need to push the strips in place, give them a thump with a mallet, take them out and then use a countersink to relieve the back face - the body rivets will leave a mark where the holes are needed. When they're ready, stick them in with a good adhesive/sealant.

But before adding panelling, you'll want to stop the rust on the roof channels and, most importantly of all, make a permanent fix to that blocked-up ventilator over the driver's side window - that vent will like nothing more than to let a dribble of water in to rot the back of your panelling.

Andrew

Thank you Andrew for some good advice. I agree that those vents might have the potential for leaking water... hadn't thought of that before!

Another possible would be to add a furring strip along side angles that support sides and top and add a few well placed screws through angles into strips (not through sheet metal/surface of sides but through angles).. this can give you some extra space for insulation and some place to tack or screw interior paneling to...

IF you were to use strips that are not much wider than angles or just enough to add insulation panels ( foam sheet from home improvement store) you can avoid losing to much interior space...

Dale

Being in Sunny California you may not be enlightened on ice dam membrane but it is great stuff if you want to permanently seal out water. It is an ultra flexable rubber roll that is stickey as hell. You get one shot at applying it so it better be right , stretched tight , and where you want it. Blue sheet foam in the stud cavities would add ridgity without weight and a 3/8 to 1/2 " birch plywood could be added to the existing vertical wall "studs" with self drilling sheet metal screws. Rosettes could be added to dress them up with screw cap inserted in the head of the screw after installation. The roof has me scratching my head Those tiny spare do not appear to have any depth you may have to remove a few rivits and screw a wood 1x2 to them allow a ceiling to be applied. I bet it sounds like you are in an oil drum right now when you are inside.

Margaret and Steve,
Please post your progress. I ran into a similar one last year from Kennawick that I could see again. (this time for a reasonable price).

I say cut the wood to fit between the angles/channels and use velcro to hold it up..

I'm partial to Andrews suggestion. If you use the wood strips, they could be sealed on the exterior side to close up the wood grain then install them using a commercial grade VHB foam tape from 3M. KW and Peterbuilts use that tape on their cabs in a variety of places as well as in the RV and sign industry. The sealing of the wood will give it a better bonding surface for the tape. It will then give you a surface that you can either glue to, or shoot screws into. Fill the openings with foam board. Just an idea, other opinions may vary. Doug