Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hi Guys & gals
I know a lot of you builders are keen on Gorilla Glue. It's not been in the UK for long, and I can't find a "Lowes" type place to just buy it off the shelf. So I'm looking at prices like £6.40 plus postage for a 4 oz bottle

So I guess that would be about $12, which seems steep to me.

But I have found a polyurethane glue called LUMBER JACK, from a UK trade counter called TOOLSTATION...

It sounds like it's from the USA... is it? anyone used it????

regards

mal

I haven't used Lumberjack, but unless you have a special application or just want to try some PU glue, I would just go with plain carpenter's wood glue (Elmer's, Titeond etc.) or a waterproof like Titebond III. That's a steep price for PU, and good old wood glue works extremely well!!!

An article in Fine Woodworking Magazine and year of two ago tested 6 varieties of glue...PU did not perform near as well as one would hope, and did not have very much gap strength at all if your joints are a bit loose...Just my 2bits....Juneaudave

What Dave said.

Here is a thread that might help.

What Dave and Mark said. PU glues have their advantageous, but the "foam" gets everywhere and be a bear to clean up. I personally like Titebond III for wood to wood joints.

mallymal wrote:I know a lot of you builders are keen on Gorilla Glue.
mal

I agree, quite a few people like gorilla glue. I've bought it, I've
used it, and I've tossed it in the garbage. Unless you go with an
epoxy resin, you won't do better than good old fashion elmers
carpenter glue or liquid nails.
Lou

Excellent advice from all as usual Thanks very much.

Liquid nails is widely available here, and as a product I've used lots elsewhere I think "better the devil you know" will definitely apply here.

The way some folks wax lyrical about Gorilla Glue, I'd assumed it had some magical properties, the likes which we've never seen back here in 18th Century Olde England.

Thanks again

Mal

What they said, Everything that I used it on had to be re glued or completely replaced with new wood

Elmers works great

John

What little I've used Gorilla Glue, it was actually pretty good. Kitchen chair leg broke diagonally with the grain, and that stuff fixed it up good. Holds up my 240 pounds (jumping up and down)!
Only problem is that you can't calculate the amount of expansion, and you've GOT to bind up what you're gluing or it'll push apart.
I think when GG fails, it's because not enough or too much water was used with it.
I don't plan on using it in my camper because it's too unpredictably messy.

Forget the Gorilla glue......go with Titebond III.
all you need is a bucket of water and a rag to clean up all the drips and runs in your joints.

try that with Gorilla.

Hi

I used Gorilla Glue on my first one and while it seems to work really well and the joints are strong and watertight the clean up is a nightmare and it's horrible if you get it on your hands or clothes.

Given that most of the joints I used it on were screwed/nailed as well as glued the amazing strength of GG may have been overkill. I intend using Titebond III on number 2 if only for the ease of clean up!

IanJ

All glue has it's goods and bads. I built wooden aeroplane wings with epoxy. Really good stuff for that application. I also have an oak dining room suite whose chairs kept on coming loose. Tried the aircraft epoxy on them, but within a few weeks they were loose again. All other glue failed. That is when I tried Gorilla glue. Must be over 5 years now and they are as sturdy as ever!

Sure, the foam is a problem, but I found if you leave it until the foam is completely dry, one can easily cut it with a sharp knife. Makes for a very good, clean job. Messing with the foam while they are tacky makes a huge mess!!

This weekend I worked with the stuff again and forgot to put gloves on. Sure, it causes a mess!!!

Elmers makes the same stuff called "Bull glue" and I have also seen other names for the same glue.

Just look around and you will find it.

Jim

I didn't try Gorilla Glue, but I did try some of the construction glues and yellow glue. I glued some scraps to plywood. I couldn't tell any difference after they were clamped together overnight. Figure I save my self some money.
Steve

When I want truly waterproof glue joints I use epoxy. When I want really really water resistant joints I use urea resin.

I have to vote for the GG. Amazing stuff
A few years ago I built several airboat props out of wood. I started by laminating several pieces together with GG then carving the prop. I have yet to have a failure and at times the tip speed is close to the speed of sound.
I also built a 8 ft cabover camper using GG . I was working for a company that delivered new RVS I just pulled bumper pulls for a while and put around 200,000 miles on that camper with no structural failures. The build was with 1/2 ply covered with the normal ribbed aluminum siding.
Needless to say the two weekender 11 I am building are with GG.
Oh a little clean up tip, take a paint scrapper after the glue foams and is hard it will scrap right off.
Ron
I also use GG in parts of my wooden kayak builds.

If Titebond III is available it is fine, it was used with great results on my teardrop. My father -in - law has real high regards for T88 Epoxy glue that is what he used on his wooden airplane. Below is a picture of the free standing framework on my teardrop using Titebond III and his airplane framework with T88 and Titebond III.
jplock



Used Titebond III


T88 Epoxy in Critical areas and Titebond III in non critical areas.