Axle location

[Southern Oregon Bob]

I'm ready to locate my axle and acording to the spread sheet and my estimated weights and locations my axle should be 50-54" from rear. This is on a 10' TD with a guesstimated 120# front box. After looking at all the TDs on this site and in the hall of fame it looks to me like most peoples axles are quite a bit further to the rear even with the front box. Does that location seem wrong or are alot of people going over the 15% tongue weight. Just hoping to get it right the first time as I will be pulling it behind a Jeep cj8 and I don't want anymore weight on the tongue than I need. Thanks Bob

[norm perkiss]

Bob,
I guess I would trust a spread sheet. I used the Kuffel Creek plans as a guide. Using Kevin's specs, I guestimated 40" from the rear for our 9' Tear. I have approx. 100 lbs at the hitch and no front box.
Norm

[doug hodder]

My thought process on this is wacky, I'm sure, and please don't anyone bust my chops on it. I know it will work out in the long run. I mocked up the sides of the trailer, and fit up the fiberglass fenders to the mockup so that it looked proportionate. I wanted the look to be correct. I figure that I can pull a cooler out of the aft end and put it in the truck if it handles poorly. I have fiberglass Kit repro fenders. I used what I remember as the correct look on my 49 Kit. I also have Kuffel Creek plans. I rolled the axle forward several inches. Actual amount, Jeez.... I have no idea. I think that proportionately it looks ok. For me, I have a heavier suspension in the truck so it can handle the tongue weight. I can still pick the tongue up easily, and I know the rear end isn't going to be that heavy. If you are towning with a light vehicle, it may be more of an issue. Just my approach and thoughts on it. Doug Hodder

[Southern Oregon Bob]

Thats my concern. When I locate it where I think it should be for the weight, it doesn't look right and it really crowds the size of the door I would like to use.

[doug hodder]

I know what you are talking about... I built it so that it looked good. Mine is only 13'oal, including tongue, and isn't going to be an issue that I can't correct easily. My opinion is that unless you get carried away with it, ie, putting the axel right up front or completely on the aft end. tongue weight isn't a real issue. Tears aren't that heavy. For me, I wasn't going to get bogged down in the math for something that was as easy as moving a cooler. to correct.... guess I'm lazy. I've built trailers that hauled Bobcats with accessories, and trailers for 1/4 mile cars. Then it was an issue. I think that with tears, it's just an aesthetic thing Just my opinion Doug Hodder

[TonyCooper]

When I began looking at the cubby plans and the finished tongue weight I worried about the same problem.

I ended up moving everything heavy - all electricals, battery, water tank, and all plumbing, to well behind the axle in an effort to balance out the weight. My calculations show a tongue weight of about 75-80lbs when loaded. The near 175-185 lbs was simply unacceptable for my tow vehicle - a miata.

We see how close my calcs where when I load it up the first time!

[asianflava]

I'm going to place the axle where the fenders allow me . It looks like the fenders will only fit within a narrow range, between the end of the trailer and the door opening. I will place the axle so that the tire is centered in the fender. I'll find out for sure tomorrow, my fenders are due to arrive then.

I figure that final tongue weight will be dependent on how the trailer is loaded. Too light in the front, move the chairs to the front. Too light in the rear, add more drinks in the cooler. I'm paranoid about a tail heavy fishtailing experience so I tend to load heavy at the tongue anyway. It happened once when I had to buy long lengths of lumber on a trailer that was too short. Luckily it was in town and I was only going 45mph, it won't happen again.

[JunkMan]

That is where I'm at right now, trying to figure out the axel placement. I was going to build the whole thing, then mount the axel last, where it gave me the ideal tounge weight. Since I am going to be pulling it most of the time with a VW bug, the tounge weight is important.

But, I just realised that I have to put blocking in the walls to mount the fenders (I'm making sandwich type walls), therefore I can't wait until it's finished to mount the axel. I plan to keep the total weight low as possible since I am pulling it with such a small car. I don't think a few inches one way or another on the axel placement will make a big difference in tounge weight, but I want to get it as close as possible.

[angib]

Jeff,

How about a strip of framing running front to back six or eight inches above the floor - you'd get two screws/bolts through that piece and two more through the floor/wall joint, which should be all your fenders need for support: that would avoid you having to fix the axle position at the start.

Andrew

[JunkMan]

Andrew,

That sounds like it might work. I was originally thinking of pre drilling the fender holes, then putting blind nuts in the holes before installing the interior panel. I thought the blind nuts might hold the fenders a little better than screws, since the framing will only be 3/4" thick. I suppose I could always replace the screws with a carriage bolt if they pulled out. Just didn't want the bolt heads to show in the interior.

[len19070]

The real formula is 60/40, that is 60% of the trailer in front of the axel and 40% behind. That will give you (on an empty trailer) 15% toung weight. Adding more toung weight will stop a small trailer from swaying. There are Many opinions on this ratio and Lots of people differ. This is the one I use.

Happy Trails

Len

[IraRat]

I don't want to waste anyone's time with another stupid newbie question in a separate thread here, but if I'm pulling my TD with a full-size pickup with a full 8-foot bed, does any of this matter to me?

[Nitetimes]

I don't want to waste anyone's time with another stupid newbie question in a separate thread here, but if I'm pulling my TD with a full-size pickup with a full 8-foot bed, does any of this matter to me?

Considering the weight of the trailer you will be pulling, not really. But a couple of things to consider are, a well balanced trailer pulls much better without swaying and jumping around, but with a full size pickup as long as you keep the tongue at the ball an inch or so high it should pull pretty good.
Another thing to consider is if you build it too heavy on the tongue weight and you decide to sell it you could put off some prospective buyers that might not have a full size truck to tow with. Just food for thought.

BTW - It's not a stupid question.

[IraRat]

but with a full size pickup as long as you keep the tongue at the ball an inch or so high it should pull pretty good.
[/quote]

I appreciate the response, but I have no idea what this means.

[mikeschn]

I think he means that comparing the teardrop at a horizontal position, versus the teardrop installed on your ball, that there is about an inch difference in elevation at the centerline of the ball.

Mike...