A few newbie questions (Please?)

[IraRat]

Hey, guys! Glad to meet you all!

I decided a few weeks ago to build a conventional aluminim skin teardrop, and after weeks of hitting different web sites, looking at different plans, I've been more confused than ever. (As a matter of fact, I want to thank Geron. His photo was the first time I actually saw how you get the CURVES!)

Anyway, after all of this trepidation, I figured I would have to start SOMETIME, so I went out and bought a 4X8 trailer with 12-inch wheels, 1450lb rating. (It's a Harbor Freight job that you bolt together.)

I will try not to appear TOO stupid, but my 2 questions for now are these:

1) What plans do you recommend I purchase for building a conventional teardrop with aluminum skin? I have VERY average skills, but I also have a lot of friends who actually know what they're doing in the trades. I was considering the Kuffel Kreek Cubby, but my main concern is clearness of the plans for a non-professional builder like myself. As a matter of fact, the trailer I bought is indeed recommended for the Cubby, and the plans APPEAR to be easy to follow, but who knows?

2) If you have other plans in mind that you think would be better for me, like the ones offered on this site, have you used them yourself? And if so, do I need any serious trailer modification, or can I assemble the trailer this weekend and connect the plywood floor? (My wife wants me to clean out the backyard and take the kids for haircuts instead, but who wants to do THAT!?)

Again, thanks for your thoughts. My wife thanks you too, because with your help, I might actually finish this project one day with all of my fingers still intact.





(That's me praying that I do this all correctly.)

[rjhager]

Go ahead and order the KuffelCreek plans. In my view they're well worth the cost and will save you a lot of time and frustration in the long run. If something's not clear to you there (can't imagine that happening!), all you have to do is post a question here and one of these knowledgeable folks will answer your questions in pretty short order!

[IraRat]

Thanks, I think you're right. I scrolled down to find some Kuffel Kreek references and they seem to be pretty positive.

Gee, my first day doing this and i still have all of my fingers.

[exminnesotaboy]

IraRat,
Nope, not stupid questions at all.
I am using the Cubby plans and I have very little carpentry experience - but I do recommend you have basic or "average" knowledge of using saws, tools. In my looking at different plans out there, there was absolutely no doubt I did the right thing in buying the Kuffel Creek plans. There will be a few small gaps you will need to fill from the plans, but they are minimal and your basic knowledge should get you through those just fine

I modifying the trailer to move the axel back, I used an angle grinder for the first time - and it was no problem at all. I believe you can assemble the trailer in the first weekend, but if you plan on sealing the underside of the plywood with roof coating/asphalt emulsion, plan on several days for it to dry before you attach it

If you get a chance, take a look at my site. I have several pics of the HF trailer modification process. I did use the heavier duty HF frame, so there may some small differences.

oh, and be prepared for your "friends" to spend more time at your place - not because you need thier help, but because they want to see it come along

[IraRat]

COOL! Nice job on those photos--so I can see you don't just slap the trailer together in an afternoon!

As far as the axle modification you made, was that something in the plans. or something you learned here? I'm gonna download the plans tomorrow or Friday and print. On Saturday, I'm going to purchase all replacement bolts for the trailer.

There was an informative link on the Kuffel site about a guy who assembled my lighter model, and he says the fasteneres aren't great, so I'm going to buy stainless steel for everything. (I'm in wet, sticky, humid South Florida.) He also mounted the axle above the springs for a lower profile. Did you do that as well?

[TonyCooper]

The Cubby Plans are great!

BTW, where in South Fla do you reside... I spend my first 20 years of my youth in Homestead! Have not been back since 1976.

[exminnesotaboy]

Moving the axle back was part of the plans. However, do a search for "weight distribution", "balance", etc.... here on the forums and consider where you want to put some heavy items such as the battery(tongue or galley) when you figure this out. I am not doing an elaborate cabinet system(read: weighty) in my galley, so I didn't have to move back as far as some others did(and it impacted where I put my door). Andrews site has good info on this as well. If you are following the plans closely as far as weight, the plan dimensions will be fine

I did move the axel above the springs for a lower riding position as mentioned in the plans. This is why I notched out the space for the axel travel. It was an easy change. Some leave it under, some leave it over - your preference.

Although I haven't emailed him myself, others have said that Kevin from Kuffel Creek responds to email very well when questions arise. Frankly, I haven't had to because this forum is so darned good

[IraRat]

The Cubby Plans are great!

BTW, where in South Fla do you reside... I spend my first 20 years of my youth in Homestead! Have not been back since 1976.

Coral Springs. Real boring town.

In 1976 (as a matter of fact, I think Coral Springs was just incorporated around then), you guys had deer, racoons and alligators wandering in your backyards.

Well, we killed most of those, and all that's left now are us ex-New Yorkers.

I prefer the alligators.

[asianflava]

heh heh heh A buddy of mine lived there. I think he went to Ely High School.

[Woody]

Irarat,

Coral Springs, South Florida. Heck we are practically neighbors. I live near Weston Florida, south of Coral Springs. I-75 and Griffin Road

[IraRat]

Irarat,

Coral Springs, South Florida. Heck we are practically neighbors. I live near Weston Florida, south of Coral Springs. I-75 and Griffin Road

COOL! YOU CAN COME OVER AND BUILD MINE FOR ME!

(By the way, I'm often over at the Bonaventure Resort & Spa in Weston, for business reasons. Did you know it's going condo?)

What kind of skin do you have on your TD? As you see, I'm taking my first baby steps with this, and I REALLY like that look on yours.

[Woody]

IraRat,
Bonaventure Resort and Spa, Yes I know the area well, I was kinda surprised that it went Condo. Vaction Village that surrounds the area probally prompted the Condo thing I am sure. My teardrop skin is Birch Bead Board paneling with a nice grain pattern on it I picked up at Home Depot, sealed on both sides with spar varnish with 10 coats. It is a floating skin so if I ever have major damage or want to change the look it down the road comes off with minimal effort. How far are you with your build or plans?

[IraRat]

I really like that look and may consider it. My Silverado has gold trim, so that would go pretty go with it.

As far as my how far I've come, well, at least I read the first half of the plans! And I'm afraid, very afraid.

Seriously,it just seems that some of the even SIMPLE parts of just modifying the chassis aren't explained clearly enough for me, so if you could please answer the following questions, this weekend might not be a total disaster:

1) Is there a real value to the floor hatch? My wife and I are VERY short (remember that I said "very"), and I can't imagine that extra couple of inches making a big difference when doing our business on a porta-potty. As a matter of fact, I really can't imagine DOING that businesss in there most of the time anyway. (Markham Park has great toilets.) I ask this now because this affects a modification on the chassis.

2) Is it really impossible to cut off the extra length parts off the chassis with a hacksaw, or should I DEFINITELY use an ang;e grinder? I figured I would clamp the pieces to my redwood picnic table, so I imagine the pieces will remian pretty stable and not shigt around. I guess I have a basic fear of that angle grinder, because if I screw up, there goes the chassis.

3) What kind of wood did you use for the cross-brace? The plans say Dry Douglas Fir. Also, if the actual called-for dimensions are 1 1/2 by 2 7/8, what's that called in the real world? Like I know a 2 by 4 measures less than that, so what's the deal here?

4) The notches??? Duh??? Inside Flanges??? What's a Flange? Do they mean the inside part of the side rails? (Bottom of page 17).

Am I notching the 4 side rails (2 each side) where they meet in the middle to accept the wood cross brace? I don't get this, because looking at the way I cut the wood brace, it would seem it would fit in there anyway. I wish I could see a photo of this somewhere to see what we're talking about, and how the heck to do it. (Anyone out there still reading this who can point me to a page?)

5) The illustration shows a part with the text "Notch to clear axle." Is this something I have to actually DO, or is this just a test to confuse me? My guess is that this may have to do with modifying the axle position for the tongue weight, which I don't have to do because I'll be hauling with a truck. If I'm right here, can I just ignore this, and follow the trailor instructions?

Thanks for your help. I'll be awaiting your answers with baited breath.

Hopefully, it will rain all weekend and all I'll be able to do is drink beer and buy the stainless steel replacement bolts.

[toypusher]

IraRat,

That's one of the wonderful things about teardrops - YOU CAN CHANGE ANTYTHING THAT YOU WANT TOO!!!

You have the trailer that does not have a 'Flange' on the inside of it. The one with the flange is the heavier duty trailer. (At least I thought that you said you had the lighter duty trailer.

You don't have to cut the trailer off if you don't want to. You can just modify the front of the profile to go straight down from the point that it is already 8'. See page 85 in the Cubby plans and reference point 'B' on the drawing. You can just make the profile go straight down to the bottom of the sheet of plywood at this point. That eliminates the need to cut the trailer any at all. (except as stated below) Don't forget to then make the wood deck on page 84 a full 96" long. And you will not have to cut the 14 degree angle on the front.

You should still take 2 of the crossmembers and turn them sideways to strengthen the place that the front and back of the trailer join together. This is shown on page 17 of your Cubby manual. The wooden brace (or more correctly, the wooden cross member) will not be the exact size as in the plans, you will have to measure the width to get it right. I used a fur 2x4 and ripped it to the size and length that would fit correctly in my trailer. You will still have to drill some new holes to fasten the relocated crossmembers in securely.

You should move the axle back as stated in the plans. This is to create the correct 'tongue weight' for towing. But ,you don't have to move it to the 'above the springs' location. It will work fine in the original location below the springs. This also eliminates the notch in the members that hold the springs.(ref page eighteen)

With all that said, if you want to follow the plans and cut the length, you can get a 'cutoff' blade for your circular saw and use that to cut the rear side members. It will cut almost as fast as cutting wood. You then have to touchup things with an angle grinder or file, as the ends will have rough edges and will be sharp.

Hope this helps and clarrifies things a bit. Just keep asking questions on this board and you will get the information that you need.


Kerry

[toypusher]

Sorry,

I did not answer you first question about the floor hatch. It will be useful to have the extra storage space. It may not seem like much, but might find yourseld wishing that you had that extra space after a few trips in your new teardrop!

Just my opinion.

Kerry