Trim for coroplast ttt

[martydukes]

Hey yall.

I just finished skinning my coroplast trailer. I need to find some kind of trim for this thing.

Probably 2"x2" L trim of some kind.. I found some 1" x 1" trim at Home depot but it's not big enough to cover the screw heads.







and an interior shot for fun..

[MsDana]

Hello Where do you buy coroplast? Has anyone used it on trailers before? It looks interesting.

dana

[martydukes]

I bought mine at a local sign supplier. You can buy it from sign shops as well but will definitely charge you a mark up as they buy it from the same suppliers.

You can also buy it online but the shipping is terrible. Doubles the price.

I don't know if anyone has used it for a trailer before. It seems there are a few who used it in some parts of their build.

[RichAFix]

How are you sealing the water out? I like the idea of how light weight coroplast is, but there is absolutely no strength to it. I hope your framework is strong enough as the coroplast can't be adding anything to it, especially if you have to put seams in the walls. I don't mean to sound like a pessimist, but I would think this would blow apart just going down the highway. Any flexing of that frame and your screws are going to tear right out. What are you putting on the inside walls?

Again, don't mean to shoot you down, I hope it works out for you. Truth is everyone on hear says these things are typically overbuilt. I am curious to see your progress, as I am worried about weight. Coroplast solves that.

[martydukes]

Hey Rich,

The seams will be sealed out with caulk, then a layer of waterproof tape, then trim on top of that.

as far as strength is concerned.. The frame is probably overbuilt and would hold up on its own. Since adding the coro this thing is solid as a rock.

You bring up a good point though. I've never built one of these before and I havn't seen anyone else who has either. If anyone has any experience working with coroplast please chime in as I would hate for this trailer to fly apart on the highway.

[oldschoolimport]

I've worked in the sign business on and off for about 13 years. coroplast is mainly used for political and real estate signs, that are temporary. if you don't keep it out of the sun, it will get brittle in time. a better option would have been a product called sintra http://www.solarbotics.net/starting/200 ... intra.html since its solid. its PVC sheet, and you would be able to bond the seams with regular PVC cement. I have actually considered skinning my teardrop with 1 or 2 mil sintra. that way, its a solid color, and any scuffs will come off with a scotch-brite pad.

[martydukes]

Hmm.. I didn't know about the tendency of coroplast to get brittle. I was hoping to avoid painting it but do you think that paint will slow/stop the deterioration?

[oldschoolimport]

I don't think paint will stay on it, due to the flexing of the coro. if you can keep it covered when not in use, it should last a while. but in full sun, a couple of years max, is all it will take. I'd be more concerned about the wind doing damage as you pull it.

I just looked at http://www.coroplast.com/index.htm and they say krylon fusion, the plastic paint, will stick to it. how much it will protect it, I really can't say. but it should help.

[brian_bp]

... a better option would have been a product called sintra http://www.solarbotics.net/starting/200 ... intra.html since its solid. its PVC sheet...

It looks like the Coroplast people now offer the same material, as Corocel. These materials are all-PVC, but not really "solid", as they are foamed in the middle, with solid skins.

See the Wikipedia page for a bit more info, or the manufacturer of the Sintra-brand version at the Alcan Composites web site.

This does look like a potentially better choice, but my guess is that Coroplast is much more readily available.

[brian_bp]

I've worked in the sign business on and off for about 13 years. coroplast is mainly used for political and real estate signs, that are temporary. if you don't keep it out of the sun, it will get brittle in time...

One way to address this is by using the aluminum-clad version of Coroplast-like material, called Alumacorr and introduced in the topic UberLite -- Ultra Light-Weight design and build.

I'm not suggesting adding an aluminum cladding to the Coroplast already sheathing this trailer, but if sun exposure is a problem on particular panels (e.g. the top) replacing the basic Coroplast with something like Alumacorr could be a later upgrade.

[Walt M]

Marty, I used Azek poly-trim it comes in white but is paintable. I rabbited it my self and predrilled for ss screws. you can also glue it together with a product like pvc cement. You can also install it using its own epoxy.
Walt

[brian_bp]

... I hope your framework is strong enough as the coroplast can't be adding anything to it, especially if you have to put seams in the walls...

The seams will be sealed out with caulk, then a layer of waterproof tape, then trim on top of that...

The seams appear to be lined up on frame members. If there are enough fasteners and the trim keeps the edges from catching airflow, I don't see why the seams would pose a critical strength problem.

Although Coroplast is not intended as a structural material - other than to be self-supporting - my guess is that it will add substantially to the structure as shear panels.

What it will do in highway-speed airflow does have me wondering...

[Walt M]

I wonder how much Coroplast is a sheet? maybe I would use a batten strip method of securing the panels to the frame. In my previous post you might be able to see how I predrilled and countersunk for SS screws, so you could screw through the Coroplast into the frame, at each frame member, it would be quite light. the batten could match or contrast the panel colors. (don't know about the UV deteriation though) Walt

[martydukes]

hey guys.. Thanks for the input..

Coroplast costs about $6 to $10 per 4x8 sheet. I thought about using alumacore but it is in the $40-$50 per sheet range..

Thanks for the tip about the Azek trim.. where do you buy this?

I just bought some garage door gasket as seen on the puffin. It looks like it will do the trick aesthetically anyway.. I am going to give it a shot. I will caulk, then tape the seams the put this trim over the top. As for the but joints, probably just white waterproof tape.

[Trackstriper]

I like Walt M's approach to putting battens over every interior frame member. I have attached 18"x24" generic coroplast signs to wooden stakes with small screws. They don't hold up well to stress, even a strong wind has pulled them through the plastic. If you have some really large heads on the screws you might be alright but I tend to be in the camp of guys who would worry about this thing exploding at 60mph. I wouldn't trust screws only even if they were every 2" along the wooden framework. Exterior battens would be light and would have a whole lot more holding strength than mere screws. Seriously consider it. Here is something that I cut and pasted from a sign supplier's website. This will second oldschoolimports's information:

Corrugated Plastic

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Can it be screen printed?
A: Yes, using appropriate inks.

Q: Can it be painted?
A: Yes, with solvent based paints. We suggest that you test first with your brand of paint before production.

Q: Can it be thermo formed?
A: No

Q: How long will it last with out door applications?
A: Allowing for regional weather differences, a 1-3 year life can be expected.
Note: Thicker material tends to last longer.

I would think that if the Coroplast is coated with a reasonably opaque paint it would inhibit the UV light that would probably be the agent breaking down the plastic over time.

Bruce