Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

What are the challenges I face if I attempt to make a 10ft x 5ft TD rather than an 8ft x 4ft?

I'm really struggling with the whole weight issues and what I can and can't do. I don't just want to start building, then find I'm overweight and have problems at a later date.

I've worked out a way of making my walls lighter, and I think I've finally got a design that suits me, but to make it really work I'd need 10ft x 5ft of space... either that or a I'd have to slouch alot.

Cheers, Dewi

Dewi are you talking about the hight being 5' ?

An 8x4 trailer can be done out of a sheet of ply .

10x4 is going to need a join on the vertical somewhere . I joined mine by the door.

A 10 x 5 is likely to need two joins if your using 8x4 ply. One vertical and one horizontal.Or maybe two vertical joinswith the sheets the other way
You can get 10x 5 ply but it comes at a much greater cost.

I recon my tear is prity well fully loaded, and weighs in at 700kg ready to camp. It's hardly noticeable on the back of the Delica


Cheers , Dave

Towed the donor back to Warrington from Wales... hardly noticed it was there... haven't a clue how much it weighs though.

Measurements would be 10ft long, 5ft high and 5ft wide... I reckon I have the design sorted now... but I really want that extra space so I can make the most the chassis I have.

Do you reckon it's going to weight too much and do you know whether its going to cause any problems with the chassis? By the looks of it, it'll be a pretty similar chassis to yours Dave.

Cheers, Dewi

Dewi, if you are going 5 high you can use 5'x5' Baltic Birch and join in the middle. When you go from 4'x8' the costs almost double other than that most can be worked. You just really have to make good seams and frames to get light.

In short, You'll be fine Dewi

Whilst both the chassis I've used are alco galvanised chassis, they are quite different in size and thickness. The one i used last on the first build is realy thick and heavy. I made up a frame from cls (2 1/2 x 1 1/2) layed flat, with a 3x2 along the sides to give it more strength. It's total overkill.

This years build, I've used the same cls layed flat across the frame, but instead of using 3x2 on the end, I've ripped a length of cls down and used that.
I've also covered it in 6mm ply instead of 12mm that I used on the first build.It will have a foam matress to help spread the load. It's not like we will be walking on it.
I've used 1/2" ply for the walls on this years build instead of the 3/4" that I used on #1.
I think there can be a tendancy to over build on the first trailer. I now know I can build lighter, so thats what I'm doing.

Cheers , Dave

If you are REALLY worried about weight, you could go with some 'non-traditional' methods similar to what Andrew has suggested which is basically frame-less. If you couple that with some composite construction you could save even more. Right now, I'm looking pretty good to hit my target 500 Lb drive away weight including AC, water, 48 quart ice chest, some gear and a queen-sized mattress. Mine will be 60 inches wide (external) by just over 9 ft. One of the advantages of composites, glass fiber in this case, is that it comes in rolls, and can be bought in 60 inch[b] widths so you don't have any seems (though you may have to splice the core, that's not much of an issue). Using this technique, a 10 footer wouldn't be too much heavier.

I've got access to composite aluminium (powder coated aluminium sandwiching a plastic centre) which could be good for the outer skin, but yes, worried about the weight... more because of what I have planned design wise... it's not exactly what you'd call a standard TD.

How can I guesstimate the overall weight? Is there a way, or do I have to be really nice to the bloke down at the weigh bridge?

Dave, the chassis looks to be a lightweight galvanised chassis... suspension a bit rusty, but it works and a lot of wire poking around under there. My original plans were to use 3/4"... but the aluminium composite should add some real strength to the sides, so I was figuring 1/2" with cutouts for insulation. I reckon that should reduce weight a little.

Kitchen wise, still want it at the front, but wondering on having the wheel more to the middle of the trailer to counter the extra weight at that end... wish I had a mathematical mind.

Cheers, Dewi

Dewi if your making a frame for the floor to sit on, you dont have to fix it to the chassis until your a way down the line.
When your almost done, before you fit the fenders/mudguards, you can balance it. I moved #1 back 4" having got most of the weight into the trailer. It lowered the tonge weight considerably

Dave

Ahh.. now thats an idea and a half... hadn't thought of building it off the trailer. Minor problem is my garage space... have a 27' by 11ft garage to build it in, but half is my other half's if that makes sense... and although she's keen on this, I doubt she's keen enough to let me have her half

How did you attach yours to the chassis in the end? Bolts?

Cheers, Dewi

If I'm not mistaken Andrews Ultralight is held by bolts through the floor over the axle near the wheels.

Like Miriam said. I used 5x5 Baltic Birch for my sides(sandwich style construction) and floor to go 5' wide x 9' long and 5' high all built on a fairly light weight 4x8 frame. You only need one seam in each wall and one seam in the floor. It makes for a pretty unusual profile, but, we like it.

I like the taller profile -- it looks... cute!