New build finally started!

[jdaan]

I finally started building! I'll try to post progress pics as I go, and ask lots of questions.

Here's a few shots of the frame:



I tried to go sturdy but not too heavy. The steel is 2" tube, 1/8" thick. I saw a great way of mounting the jacks on one of your frames, and copied it for the back corners (thanks). The tabs on the inside of the frame (tough to see in the photos) are for bolting the floor on to the frame. I hope to be able to remove the body once every year or two to inspect the frame and touch up the paint. Axle is a Dexter torsion, with 14" wheels.



Here's the start of the wall framing. The profile is the ultralight profile, with a slightly different door shape. Behind the wall is the floor, showing the top. The holes are for the bolts to attach to the frame. The underside is covered with black goo. Inside width is designed to be 54", with a sleeping length long enough for a full size mattress.

I've spent countless hours surfing this forum. Thank you all for your knowledge and great ideas. I'll post more pics as I build.

Justin

[kennyrayandersen]

good start!

[tinksdad]

Well done!!

I like the change to the door. When I'm bored, I play around with different profiles to see how I would do them to suit myself. No disrespect to anybody who has done differently; but there was always something about the ultralight that didn't quite suit my personal fancy. I think you may have hit upon it. I'm going to be watching your progress.

[planovet]

[starleen2]

Cool -

[Juneaudave]

Looks Top Notch!!!!

[jplock]

It is looking good can't wait to see more pictures!
jplock

[Miriam C.]

Great start! Keep up the good work. If you have no cross members what will you use for the floor?

[jdaan]

8) Great start! Keep up the good work. If you have no cross members what will you use for the floor?

Thanks for the comments. The floor is 1/2 baltic birch ply with 2x2 framing glued and screwed to it. The bolts attaching the body go through both the plywood and ribbing, making the 2x2's act as cross members. With the floor on the frame, I can walk on it without any flex, and with the trailer built, I'll only ever be kneeling or sitting on it. In the end, I don't think I saved any weight, and created more work. If I were to do it again, I would probably weld a few angle steel cross members and just have plywood for the floor. Next time...

[jdaan]

Fenders arrived today. These are the wide fenders from RW Johnson, with Emma posing in front.

They look great. The only question I have (right now) is mounting height. I'm not concerned with tire clearance, as I'll have plenty either way, but with looks. If I mount the bottom of the fenders flush with the bottom of the body (which is the bottom of the frame in the above pics from earlier posts), then there is a few inches above the tire visible. Alternately, I could mount them with the minimum 3 or so inches of clearance Dexter recommends, have the fender hug the tire in a more attractive manner, but have the bottom ends of the fenders extend below the bottom of the body. I've seen pictures of both, but was wondering if anyone has any opinions or practical considerations on the placement that could help.

Thanks

Justin

[Nitetimes]

Fenders arrived today. These are the wide fenders from RW Johnson.

They look great. The only question I have (right now) is mounting height. I'm not concerned with tire clearance as much as looks. If I mount the bottom of the fenders flush with the bottom of the body (which is the bottom of the frame in the above pics from earlier posts), then there is a few inches above the tire visible. Alternately, I could mount them with the 3 or so inches of clearance Dexter recommends, have the fender hug the tire in a more attractive manner, but have the bottom ends of the fenders extend below the bottom of the body. I've seen pictures of both, but was wondering if anyone has any opinions or practical considerations on the placement that could help.

Thanks

Justin

Hanging down doesn't hurt and closer to the tire always looks better to me. Just make sure you have enough clearance. It's all in what looks good to you!

[doug hodder]

Justin...that frame looks great! You may have gotten the jack idea from me as I've done a number of them like that. One thing I did was not to use a bolt from the top on the frame holding the jack. I welded a nut there and bolted from underneath. That way, if I were to ever bend or screw up a jack, I can unbolt it from underneath and bolt a new one on. That was the theory anyway.....on the fenders...I'd just wait till you get to that point and then mount them for the maximum visual appearance that you want. Just a thought. When it looks good, you'll know it! Doug

[jdaan]

Finally checking back in after too long. Got some work done, though. Galley is mostly finished, needs doors and drawers, but those will come much later. It was built as a separate unit, and I just set it on the floor for the photos.


The hatch will cover down to the counter top, the section under will be covered as part of the trailer body.


Interior cabinets. The legs are just propping it up for now.


I have the walls propped up , with the fender sitting on top of a chunk of 4x4, but it gives an idea of the final shape, at least. Now time to wire/insulate the walls.

Justin

[Classic Finn]

Very nice work Justin.

[glassice]

R W has great fenders never heard of any one have to build up his fenders
If your going to do a lot of driving on Rockey roads you might add some core mat to the back inside of the fender
I hold off tell you can see how low the trailer will set that way you wont cut your tiers
you back cabinets look great