Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Posted: **Wed Apr 29, 2009 9:05 pm**

I just got the "Harsh Environment Plastic Piano Hinge" from McMaster-Carr today, and I'm wondering what the best way is to install it...I'm building a woody, and have doubled 3/4" stock to screw into on both sides of the hinge.

I found this thread-- http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=14753&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0-- and it looks like 1/8" aluminum strips or wood to prevent puckering.

Are you guys using a bead of caulk or something under the hinge as well?

Thanks!

David

p.s. I just laid the last sheet of plywood on the hatch today, so hopefully tomorrow I'll get some pics to post in my progress thread before I head out on the road for work.

Posted: **Wed Apr 29, 2009 9:24 pm**

David, are you putting anything on the roof ? I used that hinge for my doors as well as my hatch, I did predrill and countersunk the hinge and I used oval head S.S. screws. you can check out my album, if it helps. Walt

Posted: **Wed Apr 29, 2009 9:58 pm**

I got the same hatch hinge in the mail the other day too, looking forward to installing it.

I haven't decided whether to use wood or aluminum to keep it flat bu tit looks like those are the best options. I am leaning toward the aluminum since the sides are wood, and the top is all AL.

I am going to use the same PL Premium sealant that I used for the windows, vent, and edge trim. It's good for car windshields and that's good enough for me!

Skinning the hatch is great because it starts to look like a real piece of the teardrop then!

Posted: **Wed Apr 29, 2009 10:26 pm**

2bits wrote:I am going to use the same PL Premium sealant that I used for the windows, vent, and edge trim. It's good for car windshields and that's good enough for me!

Skinning the hatch is great because it starts to look like a real piece of the teardrop then!

Sounds good to me...I haven't done my windows yet, and my roof vent is going to be a little nonstandard (as well as delayed--I need to get this sucker DONE! :lol:

) and I'm just going to put a layer of fiberglass tape along the corners rather than some kind of trim.

I was pretty thrilled with the look when I cut the "overhang" off my roof sheathing, and I'm pretty happy with the way my hatch is looking...I'm finally starting to think I'll be camping with it soon! :thumbsup:

Posted: **Wed Apr 29, 2009 10:29 pm**

Walt M wrote:David, are you putting anything on the roof ? I used that hinge for my doors as well as my hatch, I did predrill and countersunk the hinge and I used oval head S.S. screws. you can check out my album, if it helps. Walt

Just epoxy to seal it, and spar varnish for UV protection...no edge trim or anything like that.

I looked at your album...Looks good! Any particular reason you went with attaching the hinge on the outside of the door and the inside of the doorpost, rather than the outside or inside of both?

Posted: **Wed Apr 29, 2009 11:06 pm**

...we used 1/2X1/16th flatstock AL w/screw(8X1"SSPan) every 2"s to eliminate any "pucker" factor...painted the trim and screw heads, black to match hinge color...we used auto windshield sealant/adhesive on the first one, which was overkill...we predrilled everything...cleaned up all the swerf and laid a heavy bead of a siliconized acrylic adhesive(WhiteLightning3600) on the current one and it seems to be working well...for the doors...to get maximum swing, we had to alternate the locations of opposing screwheads and we counter sunk them...otherwise the screwheads will bump and bind on each other, limiting how wide you can open your door......
madjack

Posted: **Wed Apr 29, 2009 11:29 pm**

I don't know a thing about the hinge you are talking about, but that is a beautiful Staggerwing! Is it yours? I used to own a Pitts Special and have always had a soft spot in my heart for pretty airplanes (working on a Cessna 170 now).

The hinge on my TD is a piano hinge and the best thing I ever did was put a little bit of sealant on each screw as I installed it. That alone has taken care of any moisture issues.

Posted: **Wed Apr 29, 2009 11:40 pm**

anybody know about the long-term UV durability with these plastic hinges? Just wondering. :thinking:

Posted: **Thu Apr 30, 2009 12:33 am**

kennyrayandersen wrote:anybody know about the long-term UV durability with these plastic hinges? Just wondering.

...about the oldest application I know of, is around 4yrs(orso) old and holding up well...mine is2yrs old and it stays out in the sun...no signs of deteriation...I use on both the hatch, tailgate and doors...plus I bought a 50" roll for about the same price as a 5' HH...if it goes bad i"ll just cut off another hunk and gowithit....
.....from Monroe's website......

Monroe Living Hinges are plastic continuous hinges (plastic piano hinge).Our Living Hinge line of continuous (piano) hinges are a safe, non-corroding, economical alternative to our steel and aluminum piano hinge products. Monroe Living Hinge (plastic piano hinge) are one-piece, molded, pinless hinges. These Living Hinges are manufactured for silent, maintennance free operation. Living Hinges never need lubrication. Monroe Living Hinges (plastic piano hinges) do not wear, fatigue, or deteriorate in the harshest conditions, including moist and corrosive applications. UV resistance is built in to our Living Hinge products providing protection from brutal effects of the sun. Our living hinges are manufactured from flexible alloyed polymers in standard colors: White & Black

madjack

Posted: **Thu Apr 30, 2009 7:29 am**

Mcmaster.com harsh environment hinge. Top oak pieces were rabbeted the thickness of the hinge leaf. Since almost nothing will adhere to the hinge for long I used a 50 year window sealant from Home Depot on the hinge itself. It acts more like a gasket than sealant, and I epoxied the wood strips to the plywood trailer top to keep the water from getting under the wood and to where the hinge is. Maintenance is also the key to success. Keep a close eye on the hinge as expansion/contraction of wood or aluminum will work at any sealant you use.

Posted: **Thu Apr 30, 2009 8:23 am**

Hey guy's does this hinge wear out from flex bending back and fourth?
if yes, would this limit future placement or re-use of same screw holes?
Just curious I'm new to this.

Another thought is this circumvented by tapping fixed screws?
ya know those star wrench lavatory privacy wall screws those would be
reusable Hmm just random thoughts just gleaning info
Thanks guy's :thinking:

Posted: **Thu Apr 30, 2009 8:44 am**

IIRC I used butyl putty under mine - just like a window. Squeezes out - easy cleanup. Super easy replacement if anything goes haywire.

Used it on Doors and hatch. That was 3 years ago.

Posted: **Thu Apr 30, 2009 10:00 am**

darhymes wrote:I don't know a thing about the hinge you are talking about, but that is a beautiful Staggerwing! Is it yours? I used to own a Pitts Special and have always had a soft spot in my heart for pretty airplanes (working on a Cessna 170 now).

Not mine...used to belong to a friend of a friend, and I got to fly it one day (note the ear-to-ear grin!)

I've got the pieces for one that I'm restoring, but it's got a few years to go.

Posted: **Thu Apr 30, 2009 10:04 am**

madjack wrote:...we used 1/2X1/16th flatstock AL w/screw(8X1"SSPan) every 2"s to eliminate any "pucker" factor...painted the trim and screw heads, black to match hinge color...we used auto windshield sealant/adhesive on the first one, which was overkill...we predrilled everything...cleaned up all the swerf and laid a heavy bead of a siliconized acrylic adhesive(WhiteLightning3600) on the current one and it seems to be working well...
madjack

Sounds like a good plan, Jack...if 1/16" stock works, that's all the better!

I'm making a note of the WhiteLighting3600...is that a "standard" hardware-store-type sealant?

Posted: **Thu Apr 30, 2009 10:09 am**

Steve_Cox wrote:Top oak pieces were rabbeted the thickness of the hinge leaf. Since almost nothing will adhere to the hinge for long I used a 50 year window sealant from Home Depot on the hinge itself. It acts more like a gasket than sealant, and I epoxied the wood strips to the plywood trailer top to keep the water from getting under the wood and to where the hinge is. Maintenance is also the key to success. Keep a close eye on the hinge as expansion/contraction of wood or aluminum will work at any sealant you use.

Good info, Steve...all the more reason to make sure the hinge lays FLAT on the surface. I'll add "sealant check" to my planned annual once-over of the trailer (wheel bearings, varnish, etc.) and make sure to keep an eye on it. :thumbsup:

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