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Widening the floor past the frame sides?

Posted:
Wed Apr 13, 2005 7:11 pm
by The R/C Man
Hey everyone!
I am considering widening the floor to extend past both sides of the trailer by 6". The trailer is a 4x8. I would really like the extra 12". If I build the floor using 2x4's will this support the sides or will I need to build a frame over the existing trailer frame and set the floor on that?

Posted:
Wed Apr 13, 2005 8:46 pm
by Chuck Craven
2 X 2’s set at 16 inches, half lap joint to 2X2’s on the log sides! Use ¼” plywood for the bottom and ½” plywood for the topside. Use epoxy glue for the half lap joints and for gluing the plywood to the 2X2 frame should be very strong, should have no problems in mounting the sides to the floor. If you fiberglass the bottom for sealing out the weather, it will make the floor even stronger. Use T-88 epoxy glue!

Chuck

Posted:
Wed Apr 13, 2005 10:34 pm
by doug hodder
I picked up about 8 additional inches using this technique. I did however use 2x6 so that I had solid material laying on top of the frame. I lap jointed all the crossmembers with the lap on the bottom of the 2x6. I used 2x4 for all my crossmembers. It was all screwed and glued together with epoxy. 1/2 inch ply sub deck. I wasn't worried about weight however. Doug Hodder

Posted:
Wed Apr 13, 2005 11:44 pm
by The R/C Man
Thanks Guys!
I was also thinking about using wider boards on the long sides so it would rest on the frame. The problem will be to find the same thickness as the 2x4's which I am planning to lay on their sides to finish up the frame. Insulation comes in a 1.5" thickness so it will fill the voids perfectly. As for applying the 1/4" and 1/2" plywood does anyone use liquid nails as well as screws as oppossed to epoxy?

Posted:
Wed Apr 13, 2005 11:51 pm
by doug hodder
Another option would be to use a polyurethane glue. Stronger than liquid nails, cheaper than epoxy. Gorilla glue is the most expensive of the polyurethanes, I think it is better than the Elmers product, but they have one also. Either way, I think you are going to get better joints with polyurethane over liquid nails. Dampen the material prior to glueing as it needs moisture to cure. If your material isn't dried completely, no problem, the moisture in the material will do the trick. use Acetone, or lacquer thinner to clean up any stuff on your hands, and you're probably going to get some. Also, any structural 2 by material is pretty much going to be the same thickness whether it's 2 x 6 or 2 x 4. Doug Hodder

Posted:
Thu Apr 14, 2005 2:18 am
by The R/C Man
Hey Doug!
I think I am going to try out that Gorilla Glue. Good point about the wood size I wasn't thinking.....
I went to Lowes earlier to do some pricing. WOW! making the trailer 12" wider is going to double my costs for this project... I basically have to by two of everything and that is going to leave a lot of scrap... Hmmmm..... Well I have a couple days to mull it over before I get the wood.
Even if I don't go wider I am going to make it taller. Which means 4 pieces of 1/2" ply for the sides as oppossed to only 2.
How much head room do you guys have in your Tear?
Thanks!

Posted:
Thu Apr 14, 2005 4:54 am
by beverlyt
Hi Greg!
I think your idea of making your tear a little wider is great. If you can do it safely, I don't think you'll regret it.
As for height, we have plenty of height in the Cubby. It really feels pretty spacious that way. If you really like headroom, you might want to forgo the front overhead cabinets though.
Making it taller probably wouldn't be worth the trouble in my opinion.
Bev

Posted:
Thu Apr 14, 2005 5:16 am
by The R/C Man
Hi Bev!
I was just curious how much room you all have inside.. A 4x8 sheet of plywood gets narrow pretty quick when you minus the floor hieght (2 1/2") ceiling thickness (2") and a mattress (8"). That means there is only 36" of height left. Does that sound right or should it be a little taller? I was think of adding a foot....
wider

Posted:
Thu Apr 14, 2005 12:41 pm
by David Beckett
Greg,
I am building my tear now and extended it widthwise right up to the tires. I built a 2x3 frame with half inch ply on 2 ft centers. Smeared roof junk all over it and stuffed it with 2 inch insulation. It sits on the outer frame of my trailer and is removeable.
The interior can handle a squeezed in queen air mattress...54 inches I believe. You can check out pictures on the link below.

Posted:
Thu Apr 14, 2005 8:32 pm
by The R/C Man
Looks Good Dave!
The floor for mine will cover both tires. The trailer is only a 4x8. The good thing is the tires sit just below the frame rails due to their smaller 12" diameter. I will probably insert 1" spacers in between the leaf springs and axle to give me a little more clearance......
widening

Posted:
Thu Apr 14, 2005 9:19 pm
by David Beckett
Greg,
Thanks for the kind word. I had thought of extending mine past the wheels too, but decided against it to keep weight down. Going beyond 4' sure makes it more expensive. We live in a 4x8 world.
Good luck.

headroom

Posted:
Thu Apr 14, 2005 11:47 pm
by doug hodder
RC Man writes
How much head room do you guys have in your Tear?
I just measured mine...... 44 inches less 4" for the mattress that just showed up tonight. Knox Foam. I figure that I still have 44 inches as when I sit on it, it will compress. I can sit up and not hit my head. What are you using for a mattress that is 8"? It seems to me that you are giving up a lot of headroom for it, just my opinion however. PS. I'm 6'2. Doug Hodder


Posted:
Fri Apr 15, 2005 4:04 am
by The R/C Man
David,
You aren't kidding about 4x8 world. In retrospect I am going to just build it 4' wide and 4' tall. I don't think the extra money is going to be worth it. Maybe my next project will be larger..
Doug,
Yeah I am 6'1" which was why I was a little worried. You set my mind at ease..... Great info about the Knox Foam. I went to their site. It is a nice service to get a matress custom made. I will be ordering one from them when I have the measuremnets.
Thanks!