Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Ok, let's see if I can explain my possible plan. I'm building a modified Kuffle Creek Comet and using Steve Fredrick's shop manual.

I think I'm going to skin the trailer with aluminum. I'd like to skin the walls flat and do all the trimming and such before they are put up. Is it possible to install the aluminum sheet and then use standard carbide router bits and blades to trim it similar to the techniques in the shop manual?

And then... seal the exposed wood edges at the door and galley hatch using epoxy? So the whole thing would be an aluminum/ woody hybrid with the only aluminum trim running the edge of the roof line.

I think I might be crazy, so I need you all to confirm or deny my mental state.

Thanks,
Brian

The only problem I can see is when you bolt/screw it to the frame and or put the rafters in you will see the bolt/screw heads.

I cut my Aluminum sides with Tin snips after its all bolted up. Its a bit of a PITA but I just don't like all those Aluminum chips a flyin'.

Happy Trails

Len

I've never used a router on aluminum, but I have used a saw successfully; still, they are quite different. I saw is large and can dissipate heat over a much larger area. The router is really high RPM and I can't imagine that it wouldn't build up a lot of heat, which would fry the router bit. T Hey do make some speed controls for them, so maybe you could lower the RPM and keep the feed rate decent it might be possible. I'd definitely try that out on a piece of scrap!

I think it cuts pretty easy with shears, so personally that's the way I would go. It just seems so much less violent...

I use carbide router bits on aluminum skin. Aluminum is non ferrous. No problem. Wear a full face shield though. Just as easy to get a $20 air shear from Harbor Freight if routing it scares you.

I work at a sign shop and we rout (automated router) .040 up to 1'' alum. all day ever day you just need some kind of spray on coolant to keep the bit from melting into the router bit. The sheet metal guys using the hand held router to rout off the extra around framing they also use a spray on coolant.

thank you all so far for your ideas.
I still have to figure out a few things like when to skin the walls in the process but it sounds like this will work the way I think it will.


Brian

Yes, It will work.
Just think of the aluminum as the outer skin of ply.
Deal with the aluminum (outer skin) in the same sequence covered in the manual.
As was mentioned, keep the router bit cool. I use my Variable Speed Porter-Cable as slow as possible and still cut. A down-cut spiral bit will shear the metal against the backing frame.
As for screws showing; If you build it as per my manual, none will show.
I would recommend sealing the ply with a couple coats of epoxy around openings and panel edges before applying the metal. Let the epoxy get on the flat portion a bit as well as the opening.

Thank you Steve,
I pour over your manual constantly. I'm just now getting my sidewall template cut out and prepared to cut out the real sides. So I guess I'll prep everything and just add the aluminum before I actually assemble them. I have a variable speed DeWalt router that should work and I'll get some of the down-cut spiral bits with the bearing.
Thanks for the recommendation of sealing around the openings first; I was wondering how I was going to make sure the seal between the ply and epoxy was good.

Many Thanks and more to come.


Brian

I used a cheap harbor freight trim router and a flush trim bit on the aluminum and it worked fine. Didn't use any coolant, but that's a good tip if I ever use it again. I did rough cut it first with shears/snips though so the bit didn't have to work as hard.

I just added the aluminum sheeting/trim last after the trailer was assembled.