How do I prime the water pump?

[fornesto]

I bought the cheapo $24.95 pump and faucet from JC Whipme and can't seem to get the pump primed. It is mounted about 12" over the tank, midway between the faucet and the tank. I'm using 3/8" id hose slipped over the barb ends. I just can't get it to stay primed.

My tank is a blue water tank on its side with a hole drilled in it with a grommet and 3/8" id hose slid through. Does the pump have to be below the water level?

Any suggestions????

[SteveH]

I had the same problem. The pump is cyntrifical and has no check valve. To get mine to work, I had to lower it to the level of the bottom of the tank, and now it works good.

I know, kind of sucks, but it now works.

[toypusher]

Can you move the pump down to the level that the water comes out of the tank? Try this and see if it works OK. I hope so, because I have a pump/faucet from JC Whitney also. I have not installed it yet or even tested it to make sure that it works.

Kerry

[fornesto]

I was hoping to suck the water up out of the tank. My tank solution is a blue plastic water can that is laid on its broad side and slid in to a slot under the counter. The 3/8" hose comes out of a small hole drilled in the top. I can't gravity feed to below (drill a hole in the underside of the water can), or I'm sure all the water would leak out. My plan was to be able to unhook the lines, fill up the tank, slide it back in, hook up the lines and go. Maybe I need a pump that self-primes. Will that solve it?

[SteveH]

Fornesto,

Yes, that will solve your problem, or you can add a check valve. what is happening is the water is running back into the tank and being displaced with air when the pump is turned off, and the pump won't pump air because it is a cyntrifical pump. You can get a check valve at your local RV dealer and they are not expensive. If you do that, put the valve between the pump and the tank.

[Nitetimes]

You might be able to find a small check valve that will fit the end of your line, that should solve the problem without relocating the pump. Not all pumps will pull up well tho.

[fornesto]

I'll play with it a bit and look into a check valve. The upward pull is about 20". If I bring the pump closer to the tank, say 6" will that assist it. In other words, does it push better than it pulls?

What about those hand primers? The in-line bulb kind that you used to squeeze.

[SteveH]

Fornesto,

I originally installed my pump at the same height as the top of the tank, and with the tank half full, it would not prime itself. The tank is about 18" tall, so it would not pull water up 6" or so. That may give you some idea of it's pulling capabilites.

After I primed it by pulling a vacume on the discharge with my mouth, it pumped. However, after being turned off for a minute or so, it would not reprime itself.

[fornesto]

I think I'll just buy a self-priming pump. I like the flojet model that pumps 1.1 gallons per minute. I'd much rather have a slow pump than accidently exhaust all my water. Anybody got a good line for a deal?

[SteveH]

Fornesto,

Only one word of caution, if you use a pump with significantly more pumping volume than the JSW on the same faucet, you may get a stream of water like comes out of a fire hose.

[fornesto]

OK, here's my solution (for now!). I've got a line on a new in box 12V camping shower kit with a submersible pump. In my mind, the pump will be sunk in the tank permanently and will serve the sink. If it comes out too fast, I'll use a high tech clothes pin to kink the line. I'd also like to make it usable with the shower, so I'll install a T and valve so that we can take showers off the side of the trailer. Either way, the whole shower kit costs less than the cheapest pump.