HF 90154 Builders--Don't let this happen to YOU!

It was a gorgeous day in South Florida yesterday, just perfect for again getting aggravated by Kuffel's Cubby plans...but nevertheless FINALLY completing the trailer assembly.
ATTENTION! ATTENTION! DANGER! DANGER, WILL ROBINSON!!! IF YOU ARE MODIFYING THIS LIGHTER WEIGHT TRAILER ORIGINALLY DESIGNED FOR FOLDING, BEWARE!
I was originally going to name my TD The Crab, because it will have a nautical theme. But after looking at all of the unused holes, it looks like a piece of swiss cheese--so maybe I should rename it the MOUSE.
You must, MUST I repeat, drill/install/connect/fasten the spring hangers at the same time you are reinforcing and connecting the two halves of the side rails. If you assemble these parts before you drill for the spring hangers, you're going to have to remove all of those prior bolts and redrill. There's simply no way to place your spring hangers in proper position without boltheads getting in the way. (Unless you can read the future.)
And isn't drilling these holes just a TON of fun!? Why, I pretended I was a mad scientist doing LOBATOMIES!!! (And when I was done, I needed one myself.)
I mounted my axle below the springs for a bunch of reasons, so at least I didn't have to notch for axle clearance--but this was a minor comfort. Also, to get 36" position on the axle (from the rear), I marked the 36" from the rear of the frame. Then I looked at the two holes for the bolts that go through the springs in the spring hanger, marked THAT in the middle, and aligned my two marks for a true 36 from rear.
After one side was assembled, I simply measured where the edge of the previous hanger sat and marked that same position for the other side. (There are also two pieces that stick out from the hangers, like brackets, that I'm actually leaving for now. They may have some creative purpose I haven't thought of yet.) I also connected the entire axle assembly as one unit way prior, and it was very easy to hang the springs. No sarcasm--it really was.
I mention this all now because this will affect how you follow my assembly instructions above. I didn't trim the 2 plus inches at the rear of the trailer per Kuffel plans, because I'm using a slighly different side profile. This was easier, and I'm also not going to have to make this difficult 40 degree cut in the deck later.
Finally, when referring to Harbor Freight's plans, don't bother looking for a few pieces that affect wheel assembly. Those pieces are already assembled into the wheel, including the cotter pins, which you'll discover when you pop the hubs off the wheels. THEN follow Harbor's directions.
One other slight problem I had was fitting one of the larger bolts through one of the holes in the "V" assembly at the front, an assemby which originally called for cotter pins for the folding feature. This was the LAST bolt installed prior to squaring everything up (today's job), but I just couldn't guide it through both holes because the holes didn't exactly line up. Perhaps when I tighten and square everything, it will work.
If not, I'm giving that hole a 1/32 inch lobotomy as well.
In conclusion, I hope the above helps other cheapskates like myself who went for this lighter, less expensive trailer.
And I don't care WHAT Kuffel's plans say: I'm going to buy TWELVE of those bolts in the next materials list and NOT ten--just to spite 'em!
ATTENTION! ATTENTION! DANGER! DANGER, WILL ROBINSON!!! IF YOU ARE MODIFYING THIS LIGHTER WEIGHT TRAILER ORIGINALLY DESIGNED FOR FOLDING, BEWARE!
I was originally going to name my TD The Crab, because it will have a nautical theme. But after looking at all of the unused holes, it looks like a piece of swiss cheese--so maybe I should rename it the MOUSE.
You must, MUST I repeat, drill/install/connect/fasten the spring hangers at the same time you are reinforcing and connecting the two halves of the side rails. If you assemble these parts before you drill for the spring hangers, you're going to have to remove all of those prior bolts and redrill. There's simply no way to place your spring hangers in proper position without boltheads getting in the way. (Unless you can read the future.)
And isn't drilling these holes just a TON of fun!? Why, I pretended I was a mad scientist doing LOBATOMIES!!! (And when I was done, I needed one myself.)
I mounted my axle below the springs for a bunch of reasons, so at least I didn't have to notch for axle clearance--but this was a minor comfort. Also, to get 36" position on the axle (from the rear), I marked the 36" from the rear of the frame. Then I looked at the two holes for the bolts that go through the springs in the spring hanger, marked THAT in the middle, and aligned my two marks for a true 36 from rear.
After one side was assembled, I simply measured where the edge of the previous hanger sat and marked that same position for the other side. (There are also two pieces that stick out from the hangers, like brackets, that I'm actually leaving for now. They may have some creative purpose I haven't thought of yet.) I also connected the entire axle assembly as one unit way prior, and it was very easy to hang the springs. No sarcasm--it really was.
I mention this all now because this will affect how you follow my assembly instructions above. I didn't trim the 2 plus inches at the rear of the trailer per Kuffel plans, because I'm using a slighly different side profile. This was easier, and I'm also not going to have to make this difficult 40 degree cut in the deck later.
Finally, when referring to Harbor Freight's plans, don't bother looking for a few pieces that affect wheel assembly. Those pieces are already assembled into the wheel, including the cotter pins, which you'll discover when you pop the hubs off the wheels. THEN follow Harbor's directions.
One other slight problem I had was fitting one of the larger bolts through one of the holes in the "V" assembly at the front, an assemby which originally called for cotter pins for the folding feature. This was the LAST bolt installed prior to squaring everything up (today's job), but I just couldn't guide it through both holes because the holes didn't exactly line up. Perhaps when I tighten and square everything, it will work.
If not, I'm giving that hole a 1/32 inch lobotomy as well.
In conclusion, I hope the above helps other cheapskates like myself who went for this lighter, less expensive trailer.
And I don't care WHAT Kuffel's plans say: I'm going to buy TWELVE of those bolts in the next materials list and NOT ten--just to spite 'em!