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Puzzled about roof spars - Do you round the edges?

PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 3:24 pm
by KDOG
I mean that in the curves of the profile, if you were to put the spars so they are flush with the edges, won't the corners of the spar stick up past the curve of the wall Do you sand/cut those corners off? I was thinking of using round dowel the same width as the other spars to eliminate this problem.

Also while I'm talking about spars, what dimensions would you recommend? 1x2?

PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 3:31 pm
by caseydog
I am using 1X2 poplar and did not round them.

CD

PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 4:03 pm
by mikeschn
I don't think people typically round them off.

Sure, if you were to compute it mathematically, you would only hit on the corners, but in practice, I think the glue fills up the voids where it's not completely flat.

Mike...

PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 4:54 pm
by planovet
I used 2x4s that were ripped to fit. They have a very slight curve to the edges already. Worked fine for me.

PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2009 8:17 pm
by bbarry
The amount of curvature in your profile over the 3/4" width of the spar is so minimal as to be inconsequential. Don't worry about it!

Brad

PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2009 8:32 pm
by madjack
K, your thinking WAAAAAAAYYYYYYYY too much...a common problem as the Td "obsession" takes effect...place your spars, so the corners are flush with the wall edge and use a bead of urethane based adhesive(PL or Liquid nail or???)while applying the roof skins...it will span/fill a 3/8" gap...or as we do, lay the AL directly over the spars with no underlayment and use no adhesive at all.............
madjack 8)

PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2009 8:43 pm
by 2bits
Yeah, you are correct in your thinking, but it is so minimal it is not to be worried about.

PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2009 8:44 pm
by Juneaudave
Watch it K...next these guys are going to be telling you to not worry about hollowing out the headliner side of the spars either :lol:

PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2009 9:00 pm
by madjack
Juneaudave wrote:Watch it K...next these guys are going to be telling you to not worry about hollowing out the headliner side of the spars either :lol:


...errrrrrrrrr, do you mean to say that you don't :o :shock: :? .... :D :lol: ;) .......................... 8)

PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 11:04 am
by planovet
Juneaudave wrote:Watch it K...next these guys are going to be telling you to not worry about hollowing out the headliner side of the spars either :lol:


Dang, I knew I forgot something! :duh:

PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 1:44 pm
by RichAFix
Hmmmm, the weight savings of rounding the top and hollowing the bottom could be a half pound or so??? Everyone says "think light". I think you stumbled onto something here!

PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 10:12 pm
by aggie79
For those of you with too much time on your hands, how about making up some mini truss joists from plywood - about 1 1/2" deep? Lightweight, wide fastening flange, resistant to bowing or warping. What's not to like other than the PITA to make all of these. :shock:


Image


:thumbsup: Gig'em, Tom

PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 10:39 pm
by doug hodder
I helium pack the ceiling, it's inert! Doug :thumbsup:

PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 10:49 pm
by Ron Dickey
to answer you question "NO" and in fact you later will forget what you did and will have to look bake at old shots to see what you did or where they are.

Worry more about how the galley will come out. If you put the wires in right and got them in place just move on.... it all comes together in the end.

PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 11:14 pm
by Dean in Eureka, CA
aggie79 wrote:How about making up some mini truss joists from plywood - about 1 1/2" deep?

Image

All I can say is, "Thank God I didn't think of that" and just opted for 3/4" x 1 1/2" oak spars without giving it any further thought...