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Lexan roof with aluminum siding

PostPosted: Sat Jun 27, 2009 8:56 pm
by wtcreaux
OK, having flight of ideas (please try to keep up) :?

Thinking now of using aluminum outer skin on sandwiched walls. (Generic Benroy 59.5" outside wall-to-outside wall)

For the roof, would place Lexan (60"x96") (after laying a heavy bead of silicon adhesive/sealant) on top of wall edges, and trim flush with walls.

Then would use the aluminum trim piece to screw through the Lexan into the sidewalls (using sealant on each screw). This would also capture the aluminum siding, allowing floating.

Does this make sense?? Any problems you can think of??

Thanks
william

PostPosted: Sat Jun 27, 2009 8:59 pm
by doug hodder
Bob Henry has had good luck with a lexan roof. Check his album and maybe PM him for any specifics, would be cool at night! Doug

PostPosted: Sat Jun 27, 2009 10:02 pm
by wtcreaux
Doug,

Bob is who I got the idea of Lexan. He has told me how he secured the Lexan to his woodie (has a 1" overhang).

I was just curious if anyone had any suggestions or concerns with doing Lexan with aluminum.

BTW, Bob was a wealth of information :thumbsup:

PostPosted: Sat Jun 27, 2009 10:59 pm
by doug hodder
Well, having worked in the sign industry and we used to have to allow for expansion on a poly face especially on large expanses of material, I'd make the holes in it a bit larger than the screw that you shoot through on the edges to allow for some movement. Poly can expand quite a bit in high temps. I don't really know on a tear however as I haven't done it. For sealing with an aluminum strip, I'd think that a silicone would allow the necessary movement, but don't go by me on that. Sorry. Doug

PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 6:42 am
by wtcreaux
Doug,

Would it help if I flip the trim around and screw through the aluminum vertical allowing the Lexan to "float"?? Would this give enough security to the Lexan (not flying off going down the hiway)??

Thanks
William

PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 9:13 am
by doug hodder
I don't think I would. I can only speculate on building using the lexan though. Never done it on a tear. Doug

PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 10:54 am
by wtcreaux
Bob,

Since you secured the Lexan roof with screws and washers, have you noticed any expansion problems?? Could I trim (as originally posted) without perceived problems??

Thanks
William

PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 11:05 am
by bobhenry
http://www.mikenchell.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=536512&highlight=#536512

I posted this one about 6 am today has a bit more info.

I have camped to -1 below and 98 degrees in full sun and the lexan has not expanded enough to break the silicon seal around the edge. I do not think expansion is a problem. I opened it up yesterday and it must have been 105 inside I took an old quilt and flipped over it to avoid stress to the contents mainly the electronics.

PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 11:26 am
by wtcreaux
Bob,

thanks. That gives me a good idea of how to mount and secure. I am looking at buying the 60" wide by 96" long Lexan so I won't have center seams.

Would you still recommend the ice dam tape around the perimeter?? (Ice, at least the built-up kind, isn't a real hazard in Dallas TX - expecting a COLD front today - will only be in the mid-90s :D )

I am planning on taking the LExan back to the galley hinge (galley hatch will be ply).

Thanks.
William

PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 2:51 pm
by bobhenry
wtcreaux wrote:
I am planning on taking the LExan back to the galley hinge (galley hatch will be ply).

Thanks.
William


Afraid the tail gaters will see your dirty dishes HUH ?

Image

I only used the ice dam tape at the center seam you will be fine
with 100 % silicone caulk.

PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 4:59 pm
by wtcreaux
Bob wrote: Afraid the tail gaters will see your dirty dishes HUH ?

Nahhh. I'm just a guy that 'hides' things. :R

If I put Lexan on the hatch, I'll have to make sure the galley is always "clean". Just another reason why I'm NOT building the walls with Lexan :lol: