Finished Building Teardrop # 3

[halfdome, Danny]

After spending the last 6 months remodeling almost everything in our rental house I�m back to continuing my teardrop #3 build.

I wasn�t going to bore everyone with another of my same builds but after having a PM conservation with Doug we realized the forum needed another build thread for newbies or whoever would be interested.
I take great pains to get the details just right or it just doesn�t leave the shop. I make no apologies as that�s the way I was taught & expected to build things. As many of you know it�s very satisfying to build something to the best of your ability no matter what level your at. To build anything less your just short changing yourself.

Last week I started scratching my head �Now Just Where Was I ?�

I had the cabin doors glued up since I ran them with the new rental kitchen so I preceded to size them and make a run of �" x 7/8" Walnut beads to trim out the doors. I also ran my original idea of matching Walnut sliding door tracks with matching bead.

After the doors were hung I realized I need to skin the exterior with the aluminum sheets.
On TD #2 & this build I used .032 5052 4'x12 sheets and did a 4" lap seam (see photo) to finish up the height of my 54" sides. Contrary to popular forum belief I use contact cement to glue my sides on and have not had any plywood ripping problems. It's a very weak glue and is basically rubber. I used VHB tape to �Weld� the 4" lap seam together. The VHB tape requires a 72 hour set up time and not under stress so the contact glue de-stresses the sheets.

The dowel rods are to keep the sheet away from the glue until the right moment. Notice I have two particle board boxes at the correct height to place the sheet over the first piece for a perfect level line. It's a great extra hand, just got to be sure the sheet lays perfectly flat on the boxes.


A 5' x 12' sheet of .050 5052 aluminum would normally cover the roof of my build from the galley hinge to just under the roll pans. Alaska Copper in Seattle only had one badly damaged sheet so I had to go to plan �B�.


I bought 2 sheets of the .050 5' x 10' aluminum and I�m doing a lap seam like the sides using the same VHB tape. Fortunately that lap seam will be mostly covered by the tongue box and I�ll put some Rhino Liner looking self stick sheeting over the lap seam that will be exposed to the eye, for tow vehicle rock guard protection.


I covered the doors and Sunday my buddy will help me lay the 5'x10' sheet on the roof over that awful messy Henry�s Outdoor Carpet Adhesive from Lowes. I�ll have to let it set up under blocks and tow strapping so I'll continue on the galley cabinet that I made parts for.

I�ll update my Picture Trail album that's under my signature line photo as work progresses. You can also click on the WWW button for individual photos to view. Thanks for looking, Danny

[teardrop_focus]

I’ll update my Picture Trail album that's under my signature line photo as work progresses.

That appears to be yet another top-drawer. first-class build, there, sir.

I doff my cap to you.

[kennyrayandersen]

As a long-time wood worker (over 30 years) I can straight-up say you are doing some extraordinary work. You show not just talent, but skills obviously only acquired through a dedication to the 'art'. Well done, and keep posting the pictures.

[halfdome, Danny]

Thanks Chris & Kenny, working with wood has been my lifetime passion and profession.
What other job is so fun you think of compensation as secondary. Danny

[Miriam C.]

Looking forward to all those cabinets. You do really wonderful work!

[halfdome, Danny]

Thanks Miriam, how's the back scratcher working out for you?

My friend wasn't available so I decided to throw the .050 thick x 5' x10' sheet up on the roof by myself.
I thank my surgeon and physical therapist.
With a roll of Gorilla Tape, 480# of wood pellets , some clamps and a few SS screws at the front radius it's now waiting for the glue to set up. It's easier than using tow straps and sticks, and no scratches. Tomorrow I'll skin the galley hatch. Danny

[High Desert]

It's always inspiring to watch a true craftsman at work. Thanks for running the thread Danny


as a wise fellow once said- "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle

[tonyj]

Third time's a charm, so they say. Maybe you can finally get it right this time.

I look forward to watching your progress on this one.

[halfdome, Danny]

Third time's a charm, so they say. Maybe you can finally get it right this time.

I look forward to watching your progress on this one.

:lol: Getting it right...
After making detailed cutting lists on the PC, drawings, & jigs/templates I still have to stop and think... Now how did I do that, is there a better way? There's so many processes involved in these teardrops you just can't slap one together. Thanks Danny

[aggie79]

Hi Danny,

I always enjoy watching your builds and try to soak up as much information as possible. Thank you too for responding to my PMs. I'm sure you get inundated with requests for information.

This information is timely for me. I'm getting to the point in my build where I need to plan out how to cut and install aluminum sheeting. Could you please comment/clarify on the following details:

1. You use contact cement to attach your side aluminum sheeting. Do you seal your plywood or does the contact adhesive act as a sealant? Do you use solvent based or water based contact adhesive?

2. For the roof sheeting you use carpet adhesive. Why this instead of contact adhesive?

3. I have looked into VHB to join aluminum but can't figure out which to use and where to buy it in less than case quantities. Which VHB tape do you use to join your sheets and where did you purchase it from?

4. It looks like you are using a laminate router to trim your aluminum. Can you say what size and type bit you are using (i.e. 1/4", spiral flute, down cut)?

I hope these questions are of general interest to others on the board. Thank you for your time.

Sincerely, Tom

[halfdome, Danny]

Hi Danny,

I always enjoy watching your builds and try to soak up as much information as possible. Thank you too for responding to my PMs. I'm sure you get inundated with requests for information.

This information is timely for me. I'm getting to the point in my build where I need to plan out how to cut and install aluminum sheeting. Could you please comment/clarify on the following details:

1. You use contact cement to attach your side aluminum sheeting. Do you seal your plywood or does the contact adhesive act as a sealant? Do you use solvent based or water based contact adhesive?

2. For the roof sheeting you use carpet adhesive. Why this instead of contact adhesive?

3. I have looked into VHB to join aluminum but can't figure out which to use and where to buy it in less than case quantities. Which VHB tape do you use to join your sheets and where did you purchase it from?

4. It looks like you are using a laminate router to trim your aluminum. Can you say what size and type bit you are using (i.e. 1/4", spiral flute, down cut)?

I hope these questions are of general interest to others on the board. Thank you for your time.

Sincerely, Tom

Tom,

[1]I use solvent base contact cement to the raw plywood but one could roll water base contact cement. I may try the water based next time as I hear it works as well. Make a simple air tight box to hold your roller and pan with a snug fitting lipped lid and you can use that roller for up to 6 months. I don't feel the need to seal the plywood since all edges are covered and sealed with RV insert molding and 3/4" channel aluminum on the bottom. The glue & glued aluminum sheets seals the plywood. Make sure you use a (clean) "J" Roller to press the aluminum to the contact cement.

[2] Carpet adhesive is more flexible than contact cement and it doesn't have instant "contact" which allows me to position it easier with a 8' ceiling height. Laying the roof aluminum you'll find it tends to run off to one side or the other at the radius and the carpet glue allows you to realign the sheet for up to around an hour. Make sure to start laying it at the galley end and proceed forward.
[3] I bought my 3M VHB tape from R.S Hughes but didn't like the thickness so I went to their store in Seattle. The salesman said he found a thinner tape and came back to the counter with a credit for my original purchase of $31.15 for a roll of 3M Tape #4941, 3/4 x 36 Yd VHB 45 Mil Dark Grey. The new tape is suppose to be superior ( 3M Tape 4950 1" x 36YD VHB 45 Mil White for the astounding price of $133.88 & higher than their website price. This roll could last for up to 4 teardrops and I won't return to that company for a re-supply (for anything) as I feel I was ripped off. Other companies sell it so shop around.

[4] On the door cut outs I use a Porter Cable laminate router with a 1/4 Knob bit. A Knob Bit uses itself as a friction bearing so you'll have to move quickly to prevent burning on the plywood core. My core gets covered so no biggie. I do one side at a time and go inside and drill 1/8" holes along the door opening to make a connect the dots pattern and then use a larger bit to counter sink the burrs on the outside. You don't want any tiny pieces to scratch the face. I drill a 5/16 hole for the router bit to start my cut. The "T" molding covers up any short spots. On the sides I have someone hold the sheets against the sides on my particle board support boxes and use a wide felt pen to trace the outline. With the face of the sheet laying on a clean sheet of cardboard I either saber saw the excess or use a air shear leaving over a 1/4 extra for trimming. I use a 1 1/2 HP Porter Cable router with a 3/4" double flute bottom bearing bit to trim the sides. The larger bit slows the RPMs to avoid melting the aluminum and cuts very clean. If you don't have vinyl to protect the finish use plenty of masking tape to cover the route your router base will travel. Use your "J" Roller to stick the tape to the aluminum or the router base will start ripping it up. I've done it both ways and the masking tape is easier & cheaper. The Gorilla Tape doesn't hold on the vinyl, the vinyl stretches in a few minutes and is more trouble than it's worth the extra price. They layered all my aluminum sheets with new 5' x 12' cardboard.
I hope this answers your questions. Thanks Danny

[crazycyclist]

This may be ahead of your build, but can you tell me about the latch you use on your galley hatch?

[halfdome, Danny]

You can find them on this page. Only thing is Grant doesn't sell the striking plate so I purchase the whole thing from the guy in Auburn CA. He doesn't do web sales or email so you'd have to depend on a phone call & snail mail. He may send you a bill after the sale if he misquoted the sale by a dollar or two. Don't remember the name but he has a minimum order. Grant doesn't have a minimum (that I know of) so if you could find the striker locally you'd be better off ordering from Grant Whipp. Danny

[aggie79]

Hi Danny,
3. I have looked into VHB to join aluminum but can't figure out which to use and where to buy it in less than case quantities. Which VHB tape do you use to join your sheets and where did you purchase it from?

Sincerely, Tom

Tom,

[3] I bought my 3M VHB tape from R.S Hughes but didn't like the thickness so I went to their store in Seattle. The salesman said he found a thinner tape and came back to the counter with a credit for my original purchase of $31.15 for a roll of 3M Tape #4941, 3/4 x 36 Yd VHB 45 Mil Dark Grey. The new tape is suppose to be superior ( 3M Tape 4950 1" x 36YD VHB 45 Mil White for the astounding price of $133.88 & higher than their website price. This roll could last for up to 4 teardrops and I won't return to that company for a re-supply (for anything) as I feel I was ripped off. Other companies sell it so shop around.

Thanks Danny

Danny,

I found the 3M 4950 1" x 36 yard tape at Aircraft Spruce for $75 + $10 delivery. I'm still a few weeks away from installing the aluminum but will report how the VHB works for a novice when I do get to that point.

Please keep posting your build progress reports and pictures for #3.

Thanks again,
Tom

[halfdome, Danny]

Well I'm back in town again. Jane & I flew to AZ to pick up a vintage tow vehicle for the teardrop. I've got the aluminum all cleaned up and ready for the RV insert molding. Need to go see the state DOL to get the 55 Chevy registered and pay the use tax . Will resume the build in a day or two. More pictures of the 55 later in another thread Danny