Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

You guy may be hearing a lot from me in the next few months, After seeing new trailers NOT selling for 14 or 15 thousand and seeing the poor construction, I am building my own. Those new fangled trailers have a lot of stuff that you really do not need. thought crossed my mind of using a commercial grade indoor outdoor type carpet. Lots of things to consider, holding moisture is one, fire proofing would be another, I am still looking for a source of reasonably priced windows in the mid west. May take a 3 day weekend and head to Elkhart Indiana to see what they have. I am building a heavy floor/frame to have a strong foundation, I want to keep the shell very light. Any one ever used heavy fabrics, just to cover the interior and hide the wiring and insulation?? I am planning a plastic vapor barrier to keep moisture down. Has anyone ever used the tin framing joists?? Lets play 64 Questions!!!!! My build is going to be a standee, 14' long by 6'-3" wide. I hope to have the floor done this weekend, painted roofing tar on the underside of the sheets of plywood today. Once I get going on a project I do not know when to quit!!! Thanks [email protected] Bill

Seems like we had a thread a while back about fabric headliners with no "hard" substrate, but I sure can't find it.

with 1/4" outside skin and 3/4" framing, my walls seemed plenty rigid when I flipped them over to insulate and sheath the inside.

Hi, My only concern with synthetic carpet on the interior would be the outgassing of toxic chemicals. Not so bad in a house, but inside a little box the concentrations could get much higher. I guess that plywood and paneling outgas formaldehyde too though. Just a thought.
Drew

One suggestion is "hull Liner". its a type of carpeting that is commonly used on boats to line the hulls so they have a finished look. it is lighter in weight than marine carpeting, but still retains the properties of marine carpeting (resisting staining, moisture, and mildew)

Len uses a rubber backed carpet on many of his builds. He'll probably be along to tell you more.

Mike...

starleen2 wrote:One suggestion is "hull Liner". its a type of carpeting that is commonly used on boats to line the hulls so they have a finished look. it is lighter in weight than marine carpeting, but still retains the properties of marine carpeting (resisting staining, moisture, and mildew)

That is what I used and I love it. It is very easy to install and easy to clean. I got mine here: LINK

planovet wrote:

starleen2 wrote:One suggestion is "hull Liner". its a type of carpeting that is commonly used on boats to line the hulls so they have a finished look. it is lighter in weight than marine carpeting, but still retains the properties of marine carpeting (resisting staining, moisture, and mildew)

That is what I used and I love it. It is very easy to install and easy to clean. I got mine here: LINK

How did you install the hull liner?

Endo wrote:How did you install the hull liner?

I used a 3M spray adhesive to glue it down. I used a light web covering buildup (on both sides). You have to be careful to not overdo it to prevent over saturating the material and having bleed it through.

mikeschn wrote:Len uses a rubber backed carpet on many of his builds. He'll probably be along to tell you more.

Mike...

Yes, Yes I do use a "Foam Backed Rug" on the walls on my "Bear Bones Trailers'

In fact I'm probably the biggest proponent of Foam Backed Rug on Teardrop side walls ever.

The first thing I do is use a Latex floor adhesive and I make the panels up well in advance so when I finally install them they have already dried in an open area instead of a closed (inside the tear) area.



I also make the floor and ceiling panels covered with rug (though my floors & ceilings/roof are insulated) well in advance.

By making these up in advance I find I get no "new tear smells" once its together.

As far as the side walls I find I can hide all my wiring in a notch I make with a router beneath the rug.

A rug will also hide a brad nail/staple.

As far as an insulation value goes no one has ever put "R" values on foam backed rug BUT, I'll bet (just a guess) a 3/4" plywood wall covered with a Foam backed rug vs. a 3/4" Styrofoam framed wall is pretty close. Even weight wise I'll bet its close.

Even if it isn't close, Its More than adequate.

Plus if you consider the ease and time saved in construction, the "R" values, weight and above all the "New Builders Skill Level"

I think a 3/4" Plywood side wall with a foam backed rug is the way to go for a new builder.

"R" values; A house should have R30 in the Roof and at least R11 in the side walls and that is considered ample insulation (conforms to Fed act 222)

I'm not an engineer and nor do I want to spend any time trying to figure this out, but the side walls on a house are about 66% less then the roof. And energy company's give that ratio a VERY GOOD rating.

My ceilings are at least R7, I would think that a 3/4"plywood wall covered by a foam backed rug is at least R3. ( a good sweat shirt is probably that)

Same ratio as your home.

However lets keep in mind that All R values on any RV, from a Tear to a Prevost Bus are grossly under housing industries standards.

That being said, The bottom line, anything is better than nothing.

Plus 48" is narrow enough without narrowing the inside anymore for a few more "R" points/pounds.

And it gives the cab a nice "quiet" sound, kind of cozy too.

Just my opinion and experience.

Happy Trails

Len

Didn't the original builder carpet the interior of the Cowper?

I used hullliner glued to 1/8th ply for the interior roof of the SlumberMAX. When I build No. 2, I will most likely do the same, but also put it on partway up the wall...both for looks and to avoid cold-butt syndrome!!!

"Juneaudave" your exterior woodwork is absolutely insane. Don't want to hijack this thread, sorry, I just couldn't contain that compliment.
Scott G.

Oasis Maker wrote:"Juneaudave" your exterior woodwork is absolutely insane. Don't want to hijack this thread, sorry, I just couldn't contain that compliment.
Scott G.

Thanks...the build was a labor of love but the camping even better!!! SlumberMAX has been out every weekend since we completed it this spring....dave

Fabric on the walls makes it easy to stick things on with Velcro. We have a strip of Velcro sewn onto the tops of our door curtains. Easy to put up each evening and they can be pulled off during the day. The trailer came with fabric on the walls and floor, but I do not know what kind adhesive they used.

This is a 2007 model with the same carpet, more like a fabric really, on the floors as on the walls. I think now they put wood tile on the floor.

This is way off topic, but since the doorway seats are in the photo this is a brief description. They are moveable and make getting in and out of the trailer more comfortable. Our foam mattress pretty much covers them. In the original configuration shown above they served as jack stands turned upside down under the wheels while I ran wires under the trailer. That extra 3 inches made a big difference. This is one of the jack stands modified to be a better doorway seat with rounded corners and less weight, lag screws in the feet recessed flush.


Bill

"Little Guy" manufactured teardrops have carpet on their sidewalls.

When I ordered mine, my first stipulation was: no carpet.

I have a hairy dog so didn't want it for that reason plus I personally did not like the aesthetic.

If you want to see pics of carpeted walls, check out www.golittleguy.com

They are built in Elkhart, Indiana.

Welcome aboard and best wishes on your build!