Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Has anyone used galvanized for roof tops on their builds? It seems to me this would be a very durable product. Galvanized comes with an oily coating which must be removed with a water based acid wash. Some old timers recommend vinegar and water. I also have found several spar varnish brands that say to use spar varnish on metal to protect against uv rays and salt air. Galvanized will break down if left untreated and exposed to air. It is called white rust and of course dulls the appearance. gloss marine varnish should seal it up and keep it shiny. How have your results turned out??

Danny wrote:Has anyone used galvanized for roof tops on their builds? It seems to me this would be a very durable product. Galvanized comes with an oily coating which must be removed with a water based acid wash. Some old timers recommend vinegar and water. I also have found several spar varnish brands that say to use spar varnish on metal to protect against uv rays and salt air. Galvanized will break down if left untreated and exposed to air. It is called white rust and of course dulls the appearance. gloss marine varnish should seal it up and keep it shiny. How have your results turned out??

one drawback -- it will be heavier than Al (almost 3 to one for the same thickness)

3-1 ratio ..well, i built the benroy pretty light so, I think It will be just fine. Steel is a lot stronger however . 30 gauge should last pretty much for the life of the tear with proper care of course.

The older airstreams used .025 and .032 Al. It would really be difficult to get steel down to the equivalent weight of the Al without getting it fragile and dent-prone. I’m certainly not suggesting you couldn’t use it, or that it wouldn’t work, just an observation about weight. It would certainly give your tear a certain Grapes-of-Wrath, Hills-of-Kentucky ambiance. (did I just imply hillbilly with ambiance?). Just kidding, but it would be more of a rustic look for sure.

Yep - used on the top and front of ole # 2

starleen2 wrote:Yep - used on the top and front of ole # 2

Looks great Starleen...I am going to put it on my benroy top. I will take before and after shots.. Just curious, what did you clearcoat the steel with for protection starleen? I am leaning towards a good gloss spar varnish with U.V. protection.

Danny wrote:

starleen2 wrote:Yep - used on the top and front of ole # 2

Looks great Starleen...I am going to put it on my benroy top. I will take before and after shots.. Just curious, what did you clearcoat the steel with for protection starleen? I am leaning towards a good gloss spar varnish with U.V. protection.

Just left it "as is" with a good coat of WD-40 to clean it every now and then

They build cars and trucks out of sheet metal for a reason. It is much sronger than Aluminum. The thing to look at here is, you are only using one or one and 1/3 sheets to cover the top. not much weight and why not give the top(the most important part of the build) ultimate protection against hail and rain? Be smart when covering your top to avoid seams at the apex. start about 20" up on the front and lay a full sheet back to the hatch hinge. Then if you wish, cover the galley lid. The bottom front can them be covered by a decorative piece as a rock shield...build smart,think before you cut and always measure 3 times LOL

Did you use 30 gauge Starleen?? Just curious as that is what I am going to use.

Danny wrote:Did you use 30 gauge Starleen?? Just curious as that is what I am going to use.

Not really for sure what the gauge was - I went to a local air conditioner installer who sold me 2 4 X 9 sheets

Danny wrote:They build cars and trucks out of sheet metal for a reason. It is much sronger than Aluminum. The thing to look at here is, you are only using one or one and 1/3 sheets to cover the top. not much weight and why not give the top(the most important part of the build) ultimate protection against hail and rain? Be smart when covering your top to avoid seams at the apex. start about 20" up on the front and lay a full sheet back to the hatch hinge. Then if you wish, cover the galley lid. The bottom front can them be covered by a decorative piece as a rock shield...build smart,think before you cut and always measure 3 times LOL

They build airplanes out of aluminum because for the same strength, it lighter! We also use steel where required, like landing gear etc, but 85 percent of airplanes are either aluminum or composites now. Cars and trucks are made of steel because it's cheap.


BTW, if you put some kind of clear coat on it and it peels, fades or otherwise goes to crap, it will be really hard to refinish because you would probably need to sand it, which would play havoc with the galvanic coating. I would leave straight up natural -- leave it rustic -- that's the nature of galvanized sheet stock, unless you want to paint it.

It is going to be clear coated to protect against U.V. damage.Danny wrote:
Has anyone used galvanized for roof tops on their builds? It seems to me this would be a very durable product. Galvanized comes with an oily coating which must be removed with a water based acid wash. Some old timers recommend vinegar and water. I also have found several spar varnish brands that say to use spar varnish on metal to protect against uv rays and salt air. Galvanized will break down if left untreated and exposed to air. It is called white rust and of course dulls the appearance. gloss marine varnish should seal it up and keep it shiny. How have your results turned out??

My guess is that the air conditioning place either sold you 24 ga or 26 ga...
If I was going to use galvy on my roof, I'd go with the 24 ga myself.
I'm building my art deco fenders out of 16 ga stainless and considering using 24 ga stainless on the roof and hatch instead of aluminum...

Dean in Eureka, CA wrote:My guess is that the air conditioning place either sold you 24 ga or 26 ga...
If I was going to use galvy on my roof, I'd go with the 24 ga myself.
I'm building my art deco fenders out of 16 ga stainless and considering using 24 ga stainless on the roof and hatch instead of aluminum...

That will look very good indeed. Expensive though. I have the 30 gauge already and it is plenty bendy..LOL. it will work out real good. I have a relative in heating and air OOPS I guess it is 26 gauge afterall..

Dean in Eureka, CA wrote:My guess is that the air conditioning place either sold you 24 ga or 26 ga...
If I was going to use galvy on my roof, I'd go with the 24 ga myself.
I'm building my art deco fenders out of 16 ga stainless and considering using 24 ga stainless on the roof and hatch instead of aluminum...

I really don't believe you are building a trailer........I think you are using someone else's pictures....