Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Posted: **Sun Aug 23, 2009 11:32 am**

Hello folks, Ive been readin through the forums, and Im guessing people are using an exterior grade (or marine grade) plywood? Ive seen some people are tarring the underside, what other treatments are availible?

For the roof, Ive seen mention about CPES, epoxy, epoxy and fiberglass cloth, spar varnish, Aluminum, I was wondering if http://www.nonslipcoating.com/
would work? I was thinking about painting it with the smooth version, since it says it seals and protects.

thanks

deryk

Posted: **Sun Aug 23, 2009 11:44 am**

Deryk the Pirate wrote:Hello folks, Ive been readin through the forums, and Im guessing people are using an exterior grade (or marine grade) plywood? Ive seen some people are tarring the underside, what other treatments are availible?

...marine grade is overkill...better encapsulation/sealing will do ya better...tarring the underside is the cheapest way to seal but any sealing is OK...paint. urethane, epoxy, undercoating, bedliner are all OK...

For the roof, Ive seen mention about CPES, epoxy, epoxy and fiberglass cloth, spar varnish, Aluminum, I was wondering if http://www.nonslipcoating.com/
would work? I was thinking about painting it with the smooth version, since it says it seals and protects.

...if you truly want it sealed up to protect your investment, some sort of solid membrane is best...AL, epoxy with a topside urethane paint or epoxy with cloth, FRP(Filon) or EPDM rubber roofing are your best bets...bedliner has been used both successfully and also with disastrous results...CPES is GREAT STUFF but personally, I would just opt for regular epoxy and be done with it

thanks

deryk

Posted: **Sun Aug 23, 2009 5:27 pm**

. . . sigh . . .

every time i think it's safe to come back . . .

Posted: **Mon Aug 24, 2009 7:32 am**

Sorry Jay, Just trying to get some information before I start my build. Would like to do it right the first time, and there are some talented people here with a wealth of knowledge to share.

Posted: **Mon Aug 24, 2009 10:35 am**

jay wrote:. . . sigh . . .

every time i think it's safe to come back . . .

...so jay, are ya still writing your "thesis" or have you finally been seduced by teardrops and started building one???????????????
madjack

Posted: **Mon Aug 24, 2009 11:28 am**

I love obscure comments like the one posted by jay above...

:lol:

What does a comment like that mean? There are many possible answers to that question... :pipe:

Deryk the Pirate

For the roof, Ive seen mention about CPES, epoxy, epoxy and fiberglass cloth, spar varnish, Aluminum, I was wondering if "nonslipcoating"
would work? I was thinking about painting it with the smooth version, since it says it seals and protects.

People have been discussing the use of soft vinyl as used for automobile tops or boat upholstery in this thread:

How about vinyl or naugahyde to cover teardrop?

Posted: **Mon Aug 24, 2009 12:55 pm**

teardrop_focus wrote: People have been discussing the use of soft vinyl as used for automobile tops or boat upholstery in this thread:

How about vinyl or naugahyde to cover teardrop?

While it will definitely work and Look good, it will not last as long as the above mentioned list. Being an upholster for many years, The one thing I could ALWAYS count on was boat upholstery and vinyl tops. Anything Fabric just doesn't last for long outside - Now - I'm certain to hear from other who will tout how well their vinyl tops has done and how it lasted for years, but the plain and simple truth is: fabric just will not last as long as the other topper treatments - period. Just go look at some used boats for moment and see how well the upholstery had held up. After a season or two outside, the vinyl polymers begin to crystallize and lose their flexibility - then the cracking begins - Now back to the options again

Posted: **Mon Aug 24, 2009 2:02 pm**

After a season or two outside, the vinyl polymers begin to crystallize and lose their flexibility - then the cracking begins - Now back to the options again...

While I agree that aluminum as a covering might very well be the best compromise of material weight and weather durability, I must respectfully submit the matter of automotive vinyl tops... many of those do last for many years.

:pipe:

Posted: **Mon Aug 24, 2009 2:53 pm**

Can't say I see many landau or vinyl topped cars very often anymore. Either way, those had steel under them so leakage was not an issue. With the trailer, vinyl will likely have wood under it, so even a small leak over time will be a problem (and maybe not apparent til it is a big problem).

As the owner of a convertible, even those tops also do wear out after time and that material is pretty spendy.

Seems to me Aluminum is the best bet. Most big cities will have a tractor trailer repair outfit that has rolls of alum in 110" or so widths. You can buy it as long as you need. The aluminum can be painted too. Alum is relatively easy to work with. The local RV shop should also have trim in 16' lengths or you could have someone ship you shorter ones. Use a butyl rubber tape to seal the trim, and around your roof vent.

Rubber roof is nice. I think I would consider it in taller trailers but I think aluminum looks better and it can be applied without an underlayment over the spars directly for lighter weight if needed.

You can have the best of both worlds with a aluminum topped woodie!

Mark

Posted: **Mon Aug 24, 2009 3:15 pm**

Elumia wrote:

Can't say I see many landau or vinyl topped cars very often anymore. Either way, those had steel under them so leakage was not an issue. With the trailer, vinyl will likely have wood under it, so even a small leak over time will be a problem (and maybe not apparent til it is a big problem).

I've been staying away from commenting on these vinyl roofs that people are considering; but, it seems I just can't stop myself from giving my opinion on this. :thinking:

The reason you don't see landau roofs anymore is that they don't last. I had a car with a landau roof once and only once. It was garaged most the time; yet, from the small amount of time it was out in the sun, the vinyl began to separate get small cracks that allowed water to seep under. When the car was about 5 years old, I had to have the landau roof replaced. When they took off the 'skin', the metal underneath was still solid but was covered in rust. I can only shudder when I think what a TD/TTT's wooden roof might do. Once a landau roof begins to deteriorate, it traps small amounts water which then causes problems. :thumbdown:

Unless you don't mind the redo, choose from the options available that you know will work. You'll be happier in the long run.

Posted: **Mon Aug 24, 2009 3:45 pm**

Oh, sure. Just as I was about to order my vinyl, you go and get me rethinking my plans again. Actually haven't been to sure about using vinyl in the first place. Another thought is that the vinyls I was looking at are dark colors and darker colors absord heat, heating up the inside... Really it is good to hear stories from both sides. Can't find an emoticon for pulling ones hair out.
Thanks
Aaron

Posted: **Mon Aug 24, 2009 3:55 pm**

For heat consideration:

I have a convertible with a black top. on a 65 degree day in the sun you want the windows down - because my AC is broken otherwise it would be on!

Posted: **Mon Aug 24, 2009 4:39 pm**

...well you aluminum clad guys can do a landau roof

Im kinda leaning towards the solid rubber roof. I thought about just doin aluminum on top, but dont want the shiny metal color, Im leanin towards a "Simple" style, making it a mini gypsy cart. No kitchen with a backdoor for entrance... I guess I could paint the aluminum white to reflect the heat...ooh or copper color...

Posted: **Mon Aug 24, 2009 11:39 pm**

Can't say I see many landau or vinyl topped cars very often anymore. Either way, those had steel under them so leakage was not an issue. With the trailer, vinyl will likely have wood under it, so even a small leak over time will be a problem (and maybe not apparent til it is a big problem).

You can tell that to the several folks in the above-linked thread; they think that their vinyl-clad teardrops are holding up rather well. :dancing

Myself? Should I decide to use vinyl-over-ply, I'd most certainly CPES (an epoxy treatment that is claimed to disperse moisture from wood then seal the wood) the livin' daylights out of all the wood directly underneath any soft covering, however impermeable it is claimed to be.

:pipe:

As the owner of a convertible, even those tops also do wear out after time and that material is pretty spendy.

That automotive convertible top's vinyl is subject to much movement; to much creasing and folding as the top is lowered then raised again and again, however many times. A vinyl-clad tear's vinyl remains more or less motionless, greatly delaying the onset of any breach.

Hey, I only mentioned vinyl 'cause others have used it and they think it to be successful so far... and because of the fact that "leatherette" (vinyl) was used to cover the exterior of the teardrop-shaped "Sportsman's Trailer" in one of the first two 1936-published plansets.

:thumbsup:

Posted: **Tue Aug 25, 2009 9:08 am**

Although I would agree aluminum would last longer, I was thinking you could do about three vinyl roofs for the price of one aluminum roof. I'm basing that on a thread that had a boat vinyl product linked to it, and the fact that I personally have been unable to find any great prices on 5' wide aluminum.

I'm supposed to be working so I'll try to find the vinyl top thread later unless someone wants to help me out.

Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

What kind of plywood?

What kind of plywood?

Re: What kind of plywood?