Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Okay, guys and gals. I am in my 3rd week of a rebuild/restoration of a 47 Kitt. I am down to the metal frame for the trailer.<br>

The question is......<HR>
How much of the rust do I have to remove?????<br>
I am down to bare metal in some places and there are some discolored areas on other places and some brown spots. <br>
If I leave it this way and paint it, will the frame crack on me sometime down the road leaving me stranded.<Hr>
I would appreciate the experience of all of you out there!<hr>
Gabe in San Antonio[/code]

Go to auto parts store; paint section, get rust converter. This will leave you with a black oxide finish. I dilute it 1/1 with water and brush on. After it dries, prime and paint

if you dont get it all, the rust WILL come back....

do like ageless said...use rust converter for the spots you cant get to...


rust=cancer...if you dont get it all, it comes back worse

It depends. I live in Dallas, and it is dry here, too. I keep my TD in the garage when it is not in use. If I take it to the beach, I wash it from top to bottom.

So, for me, getting al the rust off my 1971 frame was not a big issue. If I lived on the coast and stored my TD outside, I would have had my frame blasted.

RustOleum makes rust inhibiting paints that work well. You will probably spray undercoating on the bottom of your TD, too.

If you want to do a pristine build, then get the frame blasted. Otherwise, do the best you can, and use good coatings.

CD

Check out eastwood.com they have great restoration products.

Thanks to everyone. I will get the rust converter this weekend and tackle it again.

You all sure are making this rebuilding thing easy!

I know where there is another one that needs restoration in SA. I might tackle that one in January after I finish with build #1

Gabe in SA

http://www.por15.com/

Best product on the market. I won't use anything else and have never had a problem with rust coming back.

I will second the POR 15. I just used it on a rusted piece of steel for my new tongue and that stuff worked like a charm. Coated and sealed perfectly with out any prep work. A pint goes a long way. You will however have to cover with some sort of paint as it is not UV resistant. It can be pricey but I have not found anything close to its capabilities.

I third the POR 15 product...best on the market!

POR-15 =

I went with the Rust Coverter I found in a spray and it worked like a charm. I tried to peel off the rusted areas i had sprayed and it was like part of the iron already in 1 day. Then painted it with rust preventative gloss black. Looks great! Now for the easy part

Hammerite works for me . . .

http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=16469&highlight=

and will most likely be around long after I've gone.

I also patched rusty pieces of my trailer frame with fresh metal, after removing all possible rust.

david

My experience with rust converter, 27 years in the rust belt with salted roads, tells me they do not work long term. On the Saab Sonett I am restoring I took all the rust off with a heavy 4 1/2" knotted wire brush on an angle grinder and sand blasted what I could then used Zero Rust.