Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hi Everyone
i am going to do a little experiment with epoxy...at my work my boss was throwing stuff away that we haven't sold in a long time...well i was looking around the pallet and i found some epoxy adhesives and the light bulb went off in my head...


i wonder if i can make some cpes....i know i know...cpes is something special and EXPENSIVE but what if this works i got it for FREE......plus if this does not work i can use the epoxy for glue on my TD...this stuff is expensve this is how much it cost my company


so my experiment is going to be this mix this 1:1 ratio and then add 3 parts of acetone to thin it out....


here is the pic when part a and b are together


now thinned out with 3 part acetone...( i think i could have done 2 parts )


now i am coating the wood about 3-4 times with about 5-8 minutes between coats...





now my plan is this....once this dries and cures i am taking this scrap and throwing in the backyard ....in oklahoma when fall hits we usally get some rain and then when winter hits we dont really get snow but ice....so this scrap piece of wood will sit in my backyard until feburary in all of the elements....half of this scrap is coated , other half bare...i want to see how this holds up and if it works then all i will need is to buy more acetone and if not i am not out of anything and i could still use the epoxy for the TD.....stay tuned for updated photos.....
PS ... if any one has any thoughts please post them i would like to know what everyone thinks about this experiment....thanks

That is a great find. I just read the MSDS http://cadrm.roma1.infn.it/ams/integration/BURST_DISK/FLIGHT/PRODUCTION_DRAWINGS/3M2216BA.pdf on that stuff. Looks like some stiff stuff indeed.

I could not find anything on thinning it with Acetone, but it is worth a shot....

One thing I did note was that it has a 30 day full cure for the translucent version. I would put that scrap in the garage for a month before throwing it in the yard.

The CPES (or APES) that I'm using states that you have to wait until each coat is dry to the touch before applying another coat. I wonder if your method might make a difference?

...if you want a true test, you should cut the treated part off and totally encapsulate that piece with your homebrew...THEN throw both pieces out into the cold cruel world and see how they both...individually...fare...elsewise, contamination from the untreated portion will make anything that happens to the treated portion a mute point.......
madjack

p.s. Technical Data Sheet ...a pdf file

madjack wrote:...if you want a true test, you should cut the treated part off and totally encapsulate that piece with your homebrew...THEN throw both pieces out into the cold cruel world and see how they both...individually...fare...elsewise, contamination from the untreated portion will make anything that happens to the treated portion a mute point.......
madjack

p.s. Technical Data Sheet ...a pdf file

madjack that makes sense...i will totally encapsulate the piece and throw both pieces out in the yard and see what happens....BTW this where i got my idea from......http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0074924441

MAX PCR
PROTECTIVE COATING RESIN

1 Gallon of Clear Resin

1/2 Gallon of Curing Agent



MAX PCR is a two-component epoxy based resin system formulated to provide a very long working time and low viscosity. It is specially designed as a protective coating and penetrating sealant against marine environment, water, alkali and acidic compounds. It exhibits excellent resistance to various solvents, microbial and fungal infestation preserving the wood' structural properties. It demonstrates excellent durability and exceptional adhesion to wood, metals, plastics and concrete substrates.

MAX PCR can also be utilized stabilize and encapsulate rotted or damaged wood and prevent further deterioration. It will stabilize damaged wood by filling the porosity retard fungal growth. The cured coating will have a high gloss and “blush-free” finish. For outdoor or direct sunlight exposure, directly apply several coats of latex or acrylic paint.



MAX PCR can withstand extreme cold temperatures and repeated thermal cycling without fracturing or peeling. It is resistant to deterioration due to wood tannin compounds, alkali from cementations materials and continuous water immersion. MAX PCR is supplied 100% solids (no solvent) and does not contain Ozone Depleting Chemicals. MAX PCR is easily mixed and applied using conventional application techniques such as roller or paintbrush. For spray applications, it can be further diluted with VOC exempt solvent such as acetone, TBAC (tertiary butyl acetate), perchlorethylene and other solvents. Adding solvents will also increase the penetrating properties when applied on wood or other porous materials and also extend the working time.



SAVE MONEY BY ADDING THE SOLVENT AT THE POINT OF USE






Reduced Packaging Cost
Lower Shipping Cost
Controlled Performance
Other Commerical Epoxy Penetrating systems contain highly toxic solvents such as toluene, naptha and other aromatic solvents that are also considered as an environmental pollutant.



MAX PCR is supplied solvent free to save cost on packaging and shipping of an easy to incorporate solvent or diluents that will effectively lower the viscosity of the mixed resin and make an excellent wood penetrant. Acetone is also considered as a None Hazardous Air Polluting Substance (None-HAPS) and is exempt under AQMD (Rule 102 Group 1, RULE 1107 and 1113) and EPA guidelines and mandates governing the release of petroleum based solvents.



http://www.aqmd.gov/rules/download.html

Using acetone as fast evaporating thinner, provides higher cured properties since the bulk of the acetone evaporates prior to the MAX PCR curing thus eliminating any plasticizing effect caused by the entrapped solvent within the resin matrix.

Compared to other systems that utilize slow evaporating solvents MAX PCR demonstrates higher wood penetrating and water proofing performance.

Acetone is widely available at most paint or hardware store and can be added at the time of use. Other solvents can be used but acetone demonstrates the best results. A 10% to 15% addition to the mixed MAX PCR resin provides excellent viscosity reduction and lowering of the epoxy resin's dynamic surface tension allowing deeper penetration while evaporating efficiently from the system. The fast evaporation and volatility of the acetone reduces any plasticizing effect upon cure of the resin matrix. Entrapment of any solvent within the cured epoxy matrix will eventually evaporate causing volume shrinkage, porosity and loss of water resistant properties. Any entrapped solvent will act as a fugitive solvent that will lower the water and chemical resistance of the cured resin.

Excellent water repellency
Reduced efflorescence
Water vapor permeability
Clear, uniform, neutral appearance
Reduced freeze-thaw damage
Long-term durability
Chloride ion resistance to deter reinforcing steel corrosion for concrete structures
Stain resistance from water and oil-based agents


Click on the picture to pause or play slide show




USE MAX PCR in other applications

Another thing to keep in mind is epoxy, isn't UV stable. Without an appropriate UV top coat the epoxy will breakdown.

To use this properly; you need an autoclave flooded with nitrogen. Before the onset of composites; this is what was used for metalbond; used to bond aluminum to aluminum in old 727 and oler 737s. Once properly bonded, the aluminum would tear before the bond would break.

This is top-shelf stuff

schaney wrote:Another thing to keep in mind is epoxy, isn't UV stable. Without an appropriate UV top coat the epoxy will breakdown.

well if this works then i would coat the TD with this epoxy mix and then sand and primer then a uv rated marine paint.....

here are some pics i took this morning the sample piece has sat overnight and this has only 4 coats on it....just have to wait until it is fully cured then out in the yard for the experiment.....

DrP, another thing to keep in mind, this stuff is not meant for a "show" application...keep an eye out during your experiment for how "hard" the material gets...do this by attempting to sand an area of your test piece before it goes to the yard...does it sand well...does it load up your sandpaper...I say this because, the MSDS and TDS talk about it being very flexible and this might make it too soft to sand properly and give a nice finish...another question would be...is this stuff compatible with paints and if so, what kind..........
madjack

p.s I would recommend checking out Interlux or Petit brand 1part urethane topside(brightside) marine paints for a compatible finish.....MJ

madjack wrote:DrP, another thing to keep in mind, this stuff is not meant for a "show" application...keep an eye out during your experiment for how "hard" the material gets...do this by attempting to sand an area of your test piece before it goes to the yard...does it sand well...does it load up your sandpaper...I say this because, the MSDS and TDS talk about it being very flexible and this might make it too soft to sand properly and give a nice finish...another question would be...is this stuff compatible with paints and if so, what kind..........
madjack

p.s I would recommend checking out Interlux or Petit brand 1part urethane topside(brightside) marine paints for a compatible finish.....MJ

MJ
saying this got me thinkin i am going to do a small test piece to see how it would sand....same amount of coats as the experiment piece....depending how it does sanding i will sand the encapsualted piece and chuck it in the yard to see what happens...thanks for your and all input on this....

cpes or epoxy, neither are uv proof... I would have no hesitation about using thinned down epoxy instead of cpes... thin soaks in better than thick.... not sure about what type of thinner to use, but I do know that cpes has a ton of volatiles in it... the first coat, I didn't like the smell... the second coat made me a lot happier.......

I did find that cpes set up rather quickly, and was able to sand off the bumps where the grain got raised and put on the second coat the same day.

I prefer to do that, as if applied within 24 hours, you get a chemical bond.. after 48 hours, it becomes a mechanical bond.