woodworking question

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woodworking question

Postby laoutdoorsman » Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:17 pm

ok..the metal worker is coming out in me now..im learning as i go with this wood stuff...ive built sheds and barns and doghouses and junk....but...

ok...im kinda going back several steps on my build...im not happy with the platform/floor/base that i built...and it has gotten very wet and dried out several times, and stating to show some weathering...(in my mind, potential future rot)...

anyway...im gonna redo it, and do it the way i had originally intended to...

i am still gonna use 2x lumber, but instead of standing on end/edge, i want it to lay flat...2x4's around the perimeter, and then on top of the trailer beams....the rest(intermediate bracing) will be 2x2 and/or split 2x4's (1 1/2x1 3/4)...

ok...the wood working question....whats the best way to join them...mind you, my base is 14 feet long(5'4 wide)....i coould go get 2 more 14 footers, but do i really need to?? i have plenty 2x lumber to redo it...ive got 9's and 8's...so...for my 14 footers, i can put 2 end to end...whats the best way to join them...they will be sandwiched between glue and ply...how about boring some holes, and glueing some dowel rods??

**also, the 14 foot runs will be sitting ON the trailer beams...so---trailer, ply, glue, 2x, glue, ply

and also for the "T" joints...whats the best way...i can screw thru a 2x2 into the next piece no problem---but to join a 2x2 or 2x4 into a 2x4?? bore a hole, and dowel again?? or just get long screws??


i know this isnt really teardop construction, but i figure since im already on this board, and i KNOW there are some very talented woodworkers on here...please help...i really dont want to have to go thru the mess of joing a woodworking or carpenter forum somewhere just to ask 1 or 2 questions...

thanks....
mike breaux...its pronounced "bro".....
i think i should have taken notes along the way, because ive forgotten waaaay more than i remember...
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Postby tinksdad » Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:31 pm

Personally, I would half lap them with some glue and screws from the top.
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Postby Juneaudave » Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:32 pm

I use half lap joints with a lot of carpenters glue when I want something easy and strong....like these...

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Just what I might do...Dave :thumbsup:
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ummmm

Postby laoutdoorsman » Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:38 pm

:? :? :? :? :?

umm...please forgive me....but, how in the heck would i make that cut on a 2x4 and get it to come out nice....i like the idea....im sure i can manage a 2x2 no problem....

my tools consist of, wormdrive skilsaw, jigsaw, sawsall, handsaw---and then metalworking tools--portaband, grinder, metabo


i dont have /or have access to table saws or bandsaws....barely even know what a router is...ive seen them before..lol
mike breaux...its pronounced "bro".....
i think i should have taken notes along the way, because ive forgotten waaaay more than i remember...
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Postby Ageless » Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:39 pm

Half-lap works well. With mine at 12 feet; I will laminate 1 x 2s, staggered
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ok...

Postby laoutdoorsman » Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:44 pm

Juneaudave wrote:I use half lap joints with a lot of carpenters glue when I want something easy and strong....like these...

Image

Image

Just what I might do...Dave :thumbsup:


ok...im all for that first pic..."half-lap"....any instruction on how to make that cut on a 2x4??

ok, ok..guess im off to google land....ill be back..
mike breaux...its pronounced "bro".....
i think i should have taken notes along the way, because ive forgotten waaaay more than i remember...
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Postby Juneaudave » Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:48 pm

Take your skillsaw and set it at half the depth of the 2 x 4 and cut a series of cuts in the part that gets removed. Knock the pieces out, and clean up with a chisel. For the half laps on the end of a board, you can lay them out with a pencil and cut with a hand saw if you have a good eye.
8)
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Postby Dean in Eureka, CA » Tue Oct 06, 2009 10:22 pm

Exactly what Dave said, being that you don't have access to a table saw or chop saw with depth stops.
You'll be surprized how easy this joint will come out, cleaning it up with a chissel. You might want to do a practice joint on some scrap 2 x 4 for good measure and to also see if you have the depth of the cut right...
When I make this joint in the field using a skill saw, I like to set the depth to just a whisker under half. That way, I can fine tune it with a chissel for better results. It's a good idea to also check the depth after making one of the two pieces. It's not the end of the world if you go past halfway... Just adjust the depth of your second piece.
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awesome..

Postby laoutdoorsman » Tue Oct 06, 2009 10:33 pm

got it...thank yall...im gonna try some out first thing in the morning...guess i gotta go find a wood chisel though....dont have any of those...

i might just go ahead and go get 2 14 foot boards, and at least eliminate those couple of joints...surely ill have better luck getting a good chisel at lowes than at wally world..

thanks again guys...
mike breaux...its pronounced "bro".....
i think i should have taken notes along the way, because ive forgotten waaaay more than i remember...
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woodworking

Postby danlott » Tue Oct 06, 2009 10:46 pm

For as much as you will use the chisels the Wally world ones will work just fine.

The lap joints on the end of a board will be the hardest to cut with your available tools. I would plan on cuting the end halflaps in a few inches from the end of the board and then cut the board to length after you cut the lap part. Will be easier then cutting by hand, but still can be done by hand.

Take time to cut each side of the lap joint nice and straight. Then just make the field cuts about every 1/4 inch. After all the cuts are made use a hammer to tap out the pieces. Follow up with a chisel to clean up the joint. Make sure to have the beveled part of the chisel against the wood to help prevent gouging.

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Postby bobhenry » Wed Oct 07, 2009 3:31 am

Every spar I have cut for 3 trailers were cut as 1/2 laps. After cutting the multiple cuts and knocking out the unwanted material I simply slid the saw sideways to clean out the humps and bumps left. You must move forward in very small steps but when done it is smooth and level without a chisle.
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Postby hugh » Wed Oct 07, 2009 9:06 am

you may have read about this already but there is a tool called a Kreg pocket jig Here is a link to see what it looks like.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx ... 2311,46275
This site is Canadian but Lee Valley is a U.S. company. This tool used with their screws and some good glue works great.
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Postby hugh » Wed Oct 07, 2009 9:13 am

I used it to tie my 2x2,s to the floor stringers on my trailer, it allows you to be able to place them upright and fasten them without assisstance. All the 2x2,s in this build were done with this tool includeing the window frames, etc
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Postby David S » Wed Oct 07, 2009 1:37 pm

Pocket hole joints are very strong.I use them on every thing from face frames to box's to drawer construction.Made a ladder out of it once and climbed it to show how strong they are.You can also combine them with biscut joints to make it even stronger.
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half-lap

Postby laoutdoorsman » Thu Oct 08, 2009 3:01 pm

well, i tried making a couple half-laps last night....yuck...i hate it..

they came out fine, i guess....i just dont like making them...guess i just dont have the patience...im gonna figure out something else...

i crawled around and looked today...the platform is good and dry, i poked with nails...nothing is soft, indicating rot or anything..(i know it takes much, much longer for rot to set in)....the ply that is weathered, and causing my concern is actually the bottom...i dont have a floor down yet(still open floor supports)...so, im thinking i may just let it ride, and continue with the build...

anyway...thanks again for the suggestions....
mike breaux...its pronounced "bro".....
i think i should have taken notes along the way, because ive forgotten waaaay more than i remember...
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