My very last epoxy question, I promise.

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My very last epoxy question, I promise.

Postby Aaron Coffee » Fri Oct 30, 2009 11:39 am

I know I posted earlier that it was my last epoxy question but I have one more question.
How cold can the outside temp be and still do epoxy? I don't have heat in my garage and I would like to get the trim epoxied and installed yet this winter. I have read on varnish, not to varnish if overnoght temps will be below 40, but haven't read anything on epoxy about low overnight temps. Have thought of epoxying in the basement but don't want to premeate the house with the smell.
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Postby TomW » Fri Oct 30, 2009 11:46 am

My experience with epoxy is limited. When I bought my epoxy, I ordered a "slow" hardener. The faster hardeners will work at lower temperatures.

Look at what type of 'hardener" you have.
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Postby madjack » Fri Oct 30, 2009 11:49 am

Aaron, to get specific info contact the manufacturer...however, somewhere around 60*s epoxy quits setting up and just sits there until it warms up...at which point, it will start setting up again...some tips that can help...warm the work piece...warm the epoxy(the A/B parts separately, before mixing)...these can work but nothing beats a good 80* day...
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Postby Ageless » Fri Oct 30, 2009 12:19 pm

First; it depends on the type of epoxy. Some you can mix a hot batch (more hardener) and it will create it's own heat.

There are tricks of the trade to control 'kick' times. On hot days, we would chill the 2 parts in a fridge thereby slowing the chemical reaction. On cold days we'd place the mix in a pan of warm water to speed the reaction. The tools were held under heat lamps for an hour or two to preheat the matrix. Once the chemical reaction begins; temps should be held around 65 - 75 degrees. We used a material at times 'preinpregnated' that was held in a freezer. Once it reached room temps; it would start slowly curing so we had about 4 hours of working time
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Postby schaney » Sat Oct 31, 2009 10:32 am

Aaron, with West Systems epoxy, their 205 Fast Hardener has a minimum recommended temp of 40 degrees. Although it takes a lot longer to setup and cure at low temps. Also 205 is not intended for clear coating, 207 is much better for that, but it's minimum recommended temp is 60 degrees.
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Postby Galen » Sat Oct 31, 2009 10:52 am

Space heater? :thinking:

Maybe a small one with a fan to put some heat on your epoxy area. I have done that in some pretty cold weather with good results.
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Postby Lou Park » Sat Oct 31, 2009 8:41 pm

Buy a heater
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Postby doug hodder » Sat Oct 31, 2009 9:08 pm

Watch using a heater that puts out moisture. It can cloud the finish especially if you have a high humidity to begin with. I use a wood stove, never had a problem...but I've had issues with a kerosene heater. Moisture is an epoxy enemy when curing....others opinions may vary....Doug
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Postby Galen » Sat Oct 31, 2009 11:49 pm

Yep, propane puts out lots of moisture. I have also used a wood stove with succcess.
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Postby Corwin C » Sun Nov 01, 2009 10:43 am

From my experience :( (using RAKA and West) don't go either above or below the manufacturers recommended temps. When below temp after it finally cured, I had minimal penetration and it delaminated within a few weeks. Above temp and you've got to watch your pot life super closely. Also above temp it cured "soft." I think that it cured so fast that not enough linking occurred in the polymer. Also, once the polymer starts to form your wasting your time and material to try to get it on your project.

My recommendation: Stay within temps for the entire cure time ... works every time. :thinking:

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Postby Aaron Coffee » Sun Nov 01, 2009 7:47 pm

My original plan was to screw the trim on from the inside which would have required the trim to go on before the headliner and outer skin, and I plan on epoxying all sides of the trim, changed my mind and am going to screw the trim on froth the outside and plug the holes, so epoxy will wait til next spring. Just one more very last question, really I mean it this time. To store the epoxy should I remove the pump from the jug or is it ok to leave the pump in? already put the epoxy in the basement and did put the partial jug (with pump) in a plastic bag.
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Postby doug hodder » Sun Nov 01, 2009 10:10 pm

I leave the pumps in, but then I use it pretty regularly. Just seems like a sticky mess if you remove them. They might lose their prime, if left in the can, but gently push on them to get it primed again. Really cold temps aren't an issue for me, but I think it would be in your best interest to put them as you have in the basement for long, cold periods of storage. Doug
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Postby schaney » Mon Nov 02, 2009 8:56 am

Way to messy to take them in and out. Just leave them in, although as doug noted, I regularly use mine. One thing I do is keep a drool can in case a pump drips.

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