Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I've decided to build a "stripper" modernaire profile teardrop on 5x10 frame (similar finish to SlumberMAX, Wayne's Teardrop, etc. Beautiful work BTW) I'm thinking of locally cut 5/4 quaking aspen (soft poplar - white wood w/ grain pattern that is sometimes green, gold, tan, even light orange ) and trim it with western red cedar (deep pinkish-red and white) and another species TBD (as dark as I can get, maybe a little analine dye in my future). I will be building this essentially outside, so the actual work will have to wait until next spring (provided I can save enough pennies by then ).

Meanwhile, I have a few detailed questions for those who have done it.

I have built (or helped build) several cedar strip canoes, so the process is familiar, however, attaching strips to a substrate is new. What substrate did you use? I know Juneaudave used plywood with his design drawn on it (BRILLIANT - I'll be using this idea). How thick was it? Current plan is 1/4" ply, but would 1/8 ply or even masonite be sufficient for 1/4" strips? What adhesive did you use (wood glue, epoxy, contact cement, etc.)? Did you CPES the substrate on the stripped side?

I'm planning on glassing the entire visible exterior w/ CPES, 4oz. glass, epoxy, spar urethane. In the past I have had issues with warping when only one side of the strips have been glassed. Has anyone else ran into that issue or does the substrate and wall structure hold it flat? Do I need to attach the structure before stripping? (I must preserve the option of moving it inside when the weather is less than ideal)

Roof ... I'm envisioning 1/8" masonite (bends easily and smoothly). Should I consider two layers?

Corner radius ... I'm thinking 1/2", maybe 3/4" (trying to avoid having a real thick border strip because I want to keep everything SMOOOOOTH & flush). What did you use?

I haven't ran into a post that mentions dying/staining wood, then fiberglassing over it. Does anyone have any experience here? I'm concerned about the dye/stain bleeding, and adhesion issues.

Thank you in advance for your replies, design drawings are forthcoming in the (hopefully) near future...

Corwin

Good choice!!! (but I may be biased) Here is the link to the post on Stripping Side Two of the SlumberMAX. I used 1/4 ACX, carpenters glue for the strips, and had no problem warping. I think the framimg for insulation keeps that from happening. I did not glass the sides on the SlumberMAX, but I would do that if I were building it again. I did glass the top.

If you have any questions...I'm heading for hunting camp today so it might be next weekend before I can reply...Have fun!!!...Juneaudave

Thanks Dave, your work set a pretty high bar ... good luck on your trip ... I'll be studying your technique ...

Corwin

Corwin you are right juneaudaves tear is top notch. We did almost the same thing. I glued the cedar on my trailer to a 1/4" luan substrate with carpenters glue that was also framed for insulation. No problems to date. I did use 6oz cloth on the top and the sides with 4 coats of West Systems epoxy. Followed buy 4 coats of captains varnish for UV protection. As far as stain I stained the corner boards with ZAR oil base stain. It was recommended to me by a friend that doe's high end mahogany runabouts. I didn't have any problems with it. I just made sure the stain was good and dry before applying the epoxy. Good luck with your project -Wayne

Thanks for the info and the inspiration Wayne ... your work is absolutely gorgeous, I'm hoping that I can get results like yours (that's where the vision is anyway.)

One quick question specific for you ... what is the white material in the grooves between the boards on your roof and hatch? I noticed when looking in your album that you masked it off, installed it, then applied the finish. Initially I thought it was paint when I saw the tape, but an earlier pic shows a definite groove. So far, I haven't been able to find a thread that talks about it.

I am considering having a couple of "battens" running the length of the trailer over the top with lateral strips between, and it would show much better if it was set off in a manner similar to yours.

Corwin

Corwin
Ditto on the above - 1/4" luan, West systems, 6 oz cloth, no warpage! 1/8" birch on roof. Mahogany on edges. Did not dye any wood on this camper, so I cannot assisit on that! I did have a problem with xxxxxx brand of spar varnish over the West Systems. I will check my notes to find that brand, and the brand I switched to.

The spar varnish I had trouble with was McCloskey -Valspar. After a call to West Systems, they advised Z-spar or System 1 varnish over their epoxy. I strongly advise against using the McCloskey produst if you use West epoxy. There was a chemical reaction with the two. Just my experience and Opinion!

Corwin The white stuff between the cedar is DAP acrylic latex caulking. I first used 3M marine 5200 adhesive caulk but that was a complete failure. I had to wait nine days for the stuff to dry before I could router the caulking out. The DAP caused me no problems.- Wayne

Dan: Thanks for the heads up on that varnish. When I get more time I'm going to take a better look at your webpage and album. Lots of beautiful work there too (especially that stripped counter top).

Wayne: DAP Caulking I was thinking that it was some high tech polymer/epoxy fill material or a plastic shim or something ... shows that it doesn't have to be high tech or expensive to look good.

Thanks again

Corwin

Corwin,
I have similar plans, mine will be Mike's Ultralight design built as light as I can. My plan for the walls is inside 1/8" exterior ply (maybe 3mm Okume). the wall curve frame will be laminated strips of Eastern White Spruce, the framing will be 1/2" thick white cedar studs with foam insulation between.
My plan is to eliminate the outer ply skin and glue 1/8" square cut strips (no c&b) of Western Red Cedar directly to the studs and foam, followed by 1-2 layers of 3.25 oz. tight weave fiberglass cloth. I too am concerned about glassing only one side of the strips.
I could strip directly to the framed studs before they are attched to the inner skin. This way I could glass the outside, flip it over and glass between the studs. This seems like a lot of extra work and probably won't save any weight over attaching directly to thin plywood.