Again CPES

[alftinc]

I see in an earlier posting that it was recommending at least 2 gallons of CPES on a 5x8 . Has anyone used CPES as the first and possibly second coat and then followed with regular Epoxy resin?? i realise that the reason for CPES is that is soaks into the wood better, but wooden kayaks that go into the water are only covered in regular Epoxy and they stay sealed for years or until someone scratches through the finish.

[Arne]

two gallons is plenty, one gallon probably not enough... kayaks usually have glass on them, as far as mine are concerned anyway... a scratch on a cpes'ed t/d should not get through the cpes, but a gouge can... but you will have enough cpes left over to undercoat it before it is repaired.

I've had 2 t/d's I've used cpes on. I had to do a minor/major repair on no. 1. Both were painted wood, and I never encountered any wood problems at all. I highly recommend cpes, but others have used thinned epoxy, so I'll let them tell you of their experiences going that route.

If I ever built a no. 3, I would use cpes again. no question.....

[aggie79]

On another post I said that I used CPES on the floor. I did, then followed it up with a coat of epoxy - overkill as Arne said.

If you are going that route, be sure you leave enough time for the solvents in the CPES to evaporate. I believe Rot Doctor says allow 2-3 days before topping CPES with epoxy.

[Arne]

One reason I like roof coating under the floor is it provides a 'soft' surface for any rock hits... can't honestly say I've ever had one, but soft is better than rigid when it comes to rock strikes.. and it does soak in a bit. If it can protect roofs for years, it can protect the bottom of a t/d trailer. And after all, it is not usually in the sight line.. unless you are an alligator.

[alftinc]

you dont have to worry much about alligators in CT do you?

[Arne]

ah, once in a while... some jerks buy them when they are small, bring them up from fL and release them into the wild when they get too big...

http://www.wfsb.com/news/18989097/detail.html

So, I always keep my eyes open when hiking, especially near lakes and ponds.... you never know.

[eamarquardt]

I when I worked for P and G I visited their plant in Albany, Georgia. We were talking about fishing and the locals were talking about how they waded out into the swamp. We no locals inquired as to why they didn't use a boat. The obvious answer: "The gators will tip it over". I'm not sure who is crazier, us for asking the question, or them.

This is true (but I don't know if they were pulling our gulible legs or worse).

Cheers,

Gus

[S. Heisley]

Arne wrote:

One reason I like roof coating under the floor is it provides a 'soft' surface for any rock hits... can't honestly say I've ever had one, but soft is better than rigid when it comes to rock strikes.. and it does soak in a bit. If it can protect roofs for years, it can protect the bottom of a t/d trailer. And after all, it is not usually in the sight line.. unless you are an alligator.

One difference between using roof coating on a roof and using it on a trailer bottom is that a roof doesn't have to chance being splashed with water-mixed diesel fuel. Diesel fuel plays havoc with roofing tars. Remember to avoid diesel-laced water puddles!

[planovet]

I coated the underside of my floor with Henry's about a year ago. It dried rather quickly and is not gooey to the touch. I crawled under the tear this weekend to put some LEDs on the bottom and gave the underside a good inspection. After about 2500 miles it still looks great. Not a single place that looked like it needed repair. I'm pretty satisfied with Henry's as a undercoating.