Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I’ve read through the threads on Formica and on cutting Formica but haven’t seen anything on cutting holes in Formica and countertops. All the examples I've found are of plain countertops without any holes needed.

I have purchased a ¾â€

I would cut the countertop with Formica already applied, from the plywood side, use the blades with as many teeth as possible(circular saw for straight cuts, jigsaw for curved) and if you have any scraps of both(ply and laminate), do a practice piece.

Hey Sharon once you have applied the laminate to the plywood mark out the cut out size on the top. at all 4 curved corners drill a hole big enough for the jig saw blade and start following your lines on the corners. For the straights just use circular saw and cut until you get to the corners. Forgot to tell you I always apply masking tape first on the top and draw my lines on top of that. It keeps the lamanite from splitting. Most sinks and cook tops will have a cut out template in the box. Hope this helps.

Cliff

ps- it sounds harder than what it is but I do it several times a week on kitchen installs.

If it were me, I'd cut the hole in the ply first, then glue on the laminate. After it sets up, pre-drill the lami and use a trim router with a flush cutting bit (the one with the ball bearing). This method allways works good for me. Like others said, if you use a jig saw, use a blade with the most teeth. Coarser blades have a habit of "pulling" up the lami while cutting.
A router, imo, is better because it cuts with a sideways motion, not up/down like a saw.

I tend to agree with the "glue it together first, cut it after" method" mainly because that's the way I always do it. IMHO, if you cut the holes in the plywood first, there is always the possibility (slim if done right) of not getting the laminate to lay perfectly flat around the cut-outs. You can always trim up the edges of the cut-outs after-wards and make a couple of nice cutting boards.

My tools get knocked about a bit, so besides masking the laminate where you plan to cut, I also run a couple of strips of tape on the bottom of the shoe plate on the saws I am using.... just to minimize any possibility of errant scratches.

I did mine exactly like you describe, but I used a router with a flush trim bit. It worked great. The bit just conforms to whatever shapes you've cut out. Harbor Freight has a cheap little trim router that you can get for about $15.

Sounds like you've got a good handle on things. The cut before or after application is kind of a moot point--do whichever sounds more comfy to you. I have just three comments: 1) You didn't say what kind of glue you intend to use. I assume some kind of contact adhesive. Spend a little extra and use the kind in an aerosol can. It's a little pricey (especially 3M brand), but well worth it in the headache prevention department. If you do, spray a double coat around outside edges of both substrate and laminate. 2) Make sure you apply adequate pressure to the laminate after application. Many people use a J-roller, but FastCap sells a two-roller "turtle" that works great. Even pressure over the entire surface ensures good bonding. Minumum 45 pounds pressure is recommended, I think. 3) Make SURE you leave lips for stove and sink to rest on--it'll sure ruin your day if you cut the hole the same size as the OUTSIDE of either.
Good luck.

Best,
Tom

Sharon
I would do it with a router with a flush cut bit. But if all you have is a Jig saw for the job then use that. They do make a blade that cuts on the down stroke that way you wont lift the laminate during the cut. You just have to make sure to add a good downward force to the jig saw. Also It's a good idea to put tape on the bottom pad of your jig saw so that it doesn't scratch the laminate. If I lived near you I would more than happly do the job for you. good luck and be safe. Wayne

Thanks to all of you for your replies. The way so many of you talk about routers, I may just go take a look at some!

S. Heisley wrote:Thanks to all of you for your replies. The way so many of you talk about routers, I may just go take a look at some!

Once you use one, you'll wonder why you did'nt before. Hell, I own 7!

A long long time ago I was a contractor that did custom kitchens so I have some experience. First off it sounds like you have just a flat surface with no back slash or rounded front so that makes it easier. I have never attempted to cut unsupported formica and I would not do it. If you cut the plywood first the area inside the cutout will be unsupported when you cut the formica. This could lead to chipping due to movement of the unsupported area.

Usually sinks and counter mounted stoves come with templates. If not, for the sink place it upside down and center it fore and aft so not to have too thin a counter top on either side. Holding it steady trace a line around it. Then draw a line 5/8" inside and that is your cut line. Masking tape up to that line so you avoiding marring the surface with your saw base. Depending on the shape of the sink, drill holes as needed to make your cuts. Think about how you will support the cutout as you end your final cut. Usually you can reach under and support it with your hand.

I have assumed the sink is rimless but if it has a hoody rim draw the cut line by lay the rim on the counter right side up and tracing the outer edge of the rim resting on the formica surface.

When in doubt, cut small. You can always make the cut larger.

I like to install the faucets and drain basket before I set the sink. The I set the sink dry, without caulking until I have everything hooked up. Then I caulk the sink and tighten the clamps if any. This way you get everything done without waiting for the caulking to set and you are not sliging the sink around with wet caulking. I prefer latex tub and tile caulk because it is a good adhesive as well as being easy to apply and clean up.

I hope this helps.

Jocko

I suppose either method works. I would cut the plywood after the laminate was glued down just to avoid making the sme cutout twice (one in the wood and again in the laminate. But there would be little difference in the other methoud and putting down new laminate on an existing countertop so I reckon that method would be fine also.

Your best bet is to cut out the holes first just to make sure your appliances fit. If your holes are too small, of course you can take material away, if your hole is too big, you can add to the sides until the product fits. This way if you end up adding material, the formica will cover the mistake.
Buy a laminate trim router. When on sale at Harbor Freight, they go for as little as 20. Once your formica is glued, you will want to drill a hole (away from the edge with a block of wood supporting from underneath) and use that to start the trimming.
If you end up gluing the formica first then cutting, be prepared to score the formica with a utility knife to avoid the chipping. Masking tape against a 20,000 rpm machine is an old wives(husband) tale. One thing you may want to consider is to do the outside edges first before you glue the top down. This way if you have water run off, it cuts down on the possibility of getting in between the edge formica and wood.
Lou

Lot's of good advise here Sharon. But you have a good plan, as always you have put a lot of thought into this. It is possible to do it with your limited tools. However, the laminate trimmer which is just a small router will add an amazing amount of versatility to your already growing woodworking skills. A laminate trimming bit and a round-over bit will take your projects to the next level.